The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
For minor variations in erd all you need to do is measure the old rim erd and do a simple add or subtract for spoke length on the new erd rim. Before unlacing, gauge the depth from the tire side into the nipples to determine where the spoke ends relative to the rim bed. On those squorx DT uses have threads deeper than a standard slot headed nipple. No reason to throw away all those nice aerolites.
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Damn, I Wished it was easier to calculate that all.
I have seen that on the dt Swiss calculator I can choose straightpull hub on Hubtype.
I know that the length of the spokes in the front wheel are 264mm en the nipples are DT Swiss PL Hidden 14 2.0x12mm Alu, because I have changed them alle in feb this year.
The building of the wheels itself I can do but the calculating en looking for the wright rim is the hardest job.
I have seen that on the dt Swiss calculator I can choose straightpull hub on Hubtype.
I know that the length of the spokes in the front wheel are 264mm en the nipples are DT Swiss PL Hidden 14 2.0x12mm Alu, because I have changed them alle in feb this year.
The building of the wheels itself I can do but the calculating en looking for the wright rim is the hardest job.
If you want to know the length and type of the currently used spokes check the DT Swiss Tech Book of the year your wheelset was made: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/catalogs/
For replacement you need a 55mm high rim with an option for internal nipples like this: https://www.lightbicycle.com/55mm-deep- ... rface.html
If you want a wider rim, this one millimeter higher rim should also work: https://www.lightbicycle.com/Road-bicyc ... lable.html
For replacement you need a 55mm high rim with an option for internal nipples like this: https://www.lightbicycle.com/55mm-deep- ... rface.html
If you want a wider rim, this one millimeter higher rim should also work: https://www.lightbicycle.com/Road-bicyc ... lable.html
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The other way is to do a cad drawing. A basic 2D one with the hub flanges and the rim ERD set. do the lacing and measure the angle theta. then do the maths as described on sheldons page and you will the have te lengths. The an average for the two rows of spokes.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/spoke-length.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/spoke-length.html
Thx for the information en the links.Beaver wrote: ↑Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:40 amIf you want to know the length and type of the currently used spokes check the DT Swiss Tech Book of the year your wheelset was made: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/catalogs/
For replacement you need a 55mm high rim with an option for internal nipples like this: https://www.lightbicycle.com/55mm-deep- ... rface.html
If you want a wider rim, this one millimeter higher rim should also work: https://www.lightbicycle.com/Road-bicyc ... lable.html
I have got te one that are marked in yellow
To bad Lightbicycle don't deliver to Belgium
I'm thinking about rescuing a 24h bontrager aura5 rear wheel alloy rim with a carbon fairing 50mm that only has a small crack around one spoke hole. (The original owner is 100kg+ riding weight and does not slow down crossing bumps and train tracks etc, so it's not really a quality issue. I'm not worried about more cracks forming. The crack goes 2-3mm along the middle of the rim and not to the side. It formed over a longer time because of uneven spoke tension, not suddenly because of a huge impact. The rim has one imperfection that causes the spoke tension to be high on that one hole. For a rear wheel and at 100+kg ride weight it didn't hold after a few years.)
The idea is to get a 16h front hub for like 10usd and relace the rim to it thus skipping every third hole (and the cracked hole).
The problem I have is if it's feasible or not.
The spoke order would be:
...Left
Right
Empty
Right
Left
Empty
Left
Right...
This because that's the angle of the drillings. I checked the angle of the fairing holes and 0x and 1x would be barely possible (holes quite large ~6-7mm). Maybe this order will prove impossible to true. If this were a lightweight chinese alloy rim I wouldn't believe it to be stiff enough to resist the gaps in the spoke order left/right but this being a bontrager rim rated with a high rider weight limit it might be ok at lower tension as a front wheel.
I know the common answer is simply to let it go, but I happen to have 24 dt spokes of equal length that were crossed 2x. If I'm lucky I can find a small pcd front hub that allows me to reuse them @0-1x. I live in China so I can source parts for almost no money and thus entertain this little project.
An aero alloy 50mm rim is useful in the front for all weather braking. Could come in handy one day.
The idea is to get a 16h front hub for like 10usd and relace the rim to it thus skipping every third hole (and the cracked hole).
The problem I have is if it's feasible or not.
The spoke order would be:
...Left
Right
Empty
Right
Left
Empty
Left
Right...
This because that's the angle of the drillings. I checked the angle of the fairing holes and 0x and 1x would be barely possible (holes quite large ~6-7mm). Maybe this order will prove impossible to true. If this were a lightweight chinese alloy rim I wouldn't believe it to be stiff enough to resist the gaps in the spoke order left/right but this being a bontrager rim rated with a high rider weight limit it might be ok at lower tension as a front wheel.
I know the common answer is simply to let it go, but I happen to have 24 dt spokes of equal length that were crossed 2x. If I'm lucky I can find a small pcd front hub that allows me to reuse them @0-1x. I live in China so I can source parts for almost no money and thus entertain this little project.
An aero alloy 50mm rim is useful in the front for all weather braking. Could come in handy one day.
Weird thing has happened to me recently and would like to share.
I've build about 4 sets of wheels. Recently I started on a new set and i dont know why I've found this to be very dificult. Only thintg different is that the provider sent internal nipple rim. But I dont know why it has just been really dificult.
I even screwed up measurement twice and have like 50 spokes I cant use.
Over all expereince is not what it just to be.
Any who, I would have to say that the dificulty of doing inner nipple rims is not really worth it to me so far.
I think I should start thinking about using straight pull spokes but Im starting to gag just thinking about it. lol
I've build about 4 sets of wheels. Recently I started on a new set and i dont know why I've found this to be very dificult. Only thintg different is that the provider sent internal nipple rim. But I dont know why it has just been really dificult.
I even screwed up measurement twice and have like 50 spokes I cant use.
Over all expereince is not what it just to be.
Any who, I would have to say that the dificulty of doing inner nipple rims is not really worth it to me so far.
I think I should start thinking about using straight pull spokes but Im starting to gag just thinking about it. lol
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While it's feasible Alcatraz the question is why.
The rim is cracked ad working out the spoke length is not simple as it won't be strictly radial or 1x.
You also don't need the wheel. The rim will have a wave in it.
The rim is cracked ad working out the spoke length is not simple as it won't be strictly radial or 1x.
You also don't need the wheel. The rim will have a wave in it.
I know, just bored here I guess. Trying to get rid of some stuff.
Would the spoke order result in a true wheel with a new alloy rim?
...left, right,empty,right,left,empty,left...
New (rim)bike, means, new wheels. So i'm considering building a light set with dt411 & .... normaly i would say dt240, but i'm looking at extralite or carbon ti hubs. Or should i stick with dt240's. Somebody onhands experiance with these lightweight hubs? Durability?
They need more frequent maintenance. The spare parts are very expensive.
The bearings are poorly protected from contamination.
I'd still use them 24/7 because I'm not afraid to maintain them. But if you're looking for lace and forget wheels, don't get extralite.
I suspect chris king is the hub with the least amount of maintenance.
What about Carbon-Ti? How well do they deal with contamination?
The bearings are poorly protected from contamination.
I'd still use them 24/7 because I'm not afraid to maintain them. But if you're looking for lace and forget wheels, don't get extralite.
I suspect chris king is the hub with the least amount of maintenance.
What about Carbon-Ti? How well do they deal with contamination?
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Carbon ti hubs will give a latterally stiffer wheel for the same spoke type and spoke count compared to DT Swiss 240. The 240 hubs would be o.k with thicker CX sprint or Sapim race/force at the rear in 28H drilling. 28H drilling whould be used regardless for the rear even if your light. 4 spokes does not weigh much so there is no gain is gram pinching. Carbon Ti hubs are pretty reliable.
Alcatraz, deeper rims tend to give more brake rub. lowering the spoke count make that more likely. So higher spoke counts help stop that. Got a set of 88mm deep 12 spoke wheels. it take no effort to get rub. Sit down only wheels.
Alcatraz, deeper rims tend to give more brake rub. lowering the spoke count make that more likely. So higher spoke counts help stop that. Got a set of 88mm deep 12 spoke wheels. it take no effort to get rub. Sit down only wheels.
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