Di2 Internal Option

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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TonyM
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Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

lord_brush wrote:I'm giving some thought to just sticking the normal 3 port box under the bloody stem Image
No. Much nicer on the handlebar!
And if you don’t sprint drill the holes.

by Weenie


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lord_brush
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 2:34 pm

by lord_brush

I guess I'm just a bit concerned as more than one person has mentioned the words "if you don't sprint", regarding drilling the holes.

Although I'm by no means a "sprinter", I am going to be racing on these and as such, will be putting a fair amount of force on the bars ie, this isn't just a recreational build.

Is there any particular method to drilling bars like these? Does the bit need to be kept cool or anything?
The right to bear arms is slightly less ludicrous than the right to arm bears. (Chris Addison)

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

A hole is just a hole. Make it just large enough for the cable. It should be around 3mm if I recall.

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lord_brush
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 2:34 pm

by lord_brush

Ok, bars drilled (ffs!). 3mm doesn't cut it either for the one side that's going to accept two etubes! No way you can fit the end of an etube thru a 3mm hole when there's already a wire passing thru.

Anyway... My latest thinking is:

Individual shifter wires exiting the (factory), hole at the rear centre of the bar

D-Fly connecting these two wires and hidden in the Vibe stem.

Long (prob 1400mm), tube from BB to left shifter

Bar end to right shifter

(I figure i need a slightly longer wire for one of the shifters to enable a not too tight loop back from within the stem.

Question is, will the DFly transmit ok thru the aluminium? It's going to be very close to the receiver (Bolt), so figure this will be ok?
The right to bear arms is slightly less ludicrous than the right to arm bears. (Chris Addison)

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

There's absolutely no need to pass two wires through a single hole. The long wire should be routed externally, just like the brake cable. There's no reason to hide the long wire inside the bar. The wire will be under the bar tape. Then connect a wire from one shifter to the bar end junction using the drilled hole. Then one wire from the bar end junction to the other shifter using the 2nd drilled hole. If you are going to add a climbing shifter the wire for that will be external as well. So there's really no need to pass two wires through a single hole. You will need a total of two drilled holes, one near each shifter.

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lord_brush
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 2:34 pm

by lord_brush

As an aside, I've just received an EW-WU111 Dfly transmitter (the new in-line one)

Will this work if I couple it up with two 300/350 wires in the chainstay, or does it have to be a bit close to the receiver/ computer?
The right to bear arms is slightly less ludicrous than the right to arm bears. (Chris Addison)

dricked
Posts: 184
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:57 pm

by dricked

pdlpsher1 wrote:
Mon Jan 15, 2018 2:35 am
There's absolutely no need to pass two wires through a single hole. The long wire should be routed externally, just like the brake cable. There's no reason to hide the long wire inside the bar. The wire will be under the bar tape. Then connect a wire from one shifter to the bar end junction using the drilled hole. Then one wire from the bar end junction to the other shifter using the 2nd drilled hole. If you are going to add a climbing shifter the wire for that will be external as well. So there's really no need to pass two wires through a single hole. You will need a total of two drilled holes, one near each shifter.
I’ve got two wires on each side of my bars on the outside of the drops. There was no other way of doing it and I’m using the PRO vibe di2 bars. One wire from right shifter to J/A bar end, J/A over to other side of bars with J/B, J/B to left bar. The R785 shifters only have one port and unless I wanted the external J/A there was no other option I could figure out.

LiquidCooled
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Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:46 am

by LiquidCooled

dricked wrote: I’ve got two wires on each side of my bars on the outside of the drops. There was no other way of doing it and I’m using the PRO vibe di2 bars. One wire from right shifter to J/A bar end, J/A over to other side of bars with J/B, J/B to left bar. The R785 shifters only have one port and unless I wanted the external J/A there was no other option I could figure out.
Have you thought about the JC130 (the di2 y-connector cable)? That's how I have my R785s hooked up in my Ergonova bar.
2017 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
2003 Cannondale R1000 (CAAD7)

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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD

pdlpsher1 wrote:
Thu Jan 11, 2018 2:54 pm
lord_brush wrote:
Thu Jan 11, 2018 2:37 pm
Having just received my Pro Vibe (alloy), bars what annoys me is why the hell don’t they drill holes in the bend just above where the shifter ports will be??? They do for the Vibe carbon, and the aero variations, but not for the alloy? There’s a hole at the bar ends where they expect you to run the bar end junction wires outside of the bar up to the shifter etc. This also means I will have to run the shifter-to-shifter wire externally under the tape, along with both brake cables. There aren’t even any recessed grooves. Only way to avoid the external wiring from the bar end jctn is to use the Gap Cap option afterall. Annoying…
I do see a groove for external brake cables. As for the Di2 wiring, just drill two small 3mm holes just above the shifter ports. Run your long Di2 cable along with your brake cable to one of the shifters. Then use your newly drilled holes to run one cable connecting both shifters. Then use the newly drilled hole for connecting one shifter to the bar end junction. Yeah, I agree the factory drilled holes are at the wrong locations.

Image
Having had alloy bars snap on me, I would be very wary of drilling holes anywhere on my bars, especially alloy bars. I can't say that I've ever seen alloy bars with holes in the bends, and for good reason. It introduces a weak spot for cracks and breaks to form. The reason why the factory drilled holes are all the way down at the ends is because that's the one place on the bars that's not going to receive any stress. I suppose if you NEVER get out of the saddle, you might be safe, but it's not a risk I'd be willing to take.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

dricked
Posts: 184
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:57 pm

by dricked

LiquidCooled wrote:
Thu Jan 25, 2018 3:35 pm
dricked wrote: I’ve got two wires on each side of my bars on the outside of the drops. There was no other way of doing it and I’m using the PRO vibe di2 bars. One wire from right shifter to J/A bar end, J/A over to other side of bars with J/B, J/B to left bar. The R785 shifters only have one port and unless I wanted the external J/A there was no other option I could figure out.
Have you thought about the JC130 (the di2 y-connector cable)? That's how I have my R785s hooked up in my Ergonova bar.
I did but I still would have had 2 wires going out of the one hole, one to the lever and then the other from the BB both to the bar end. It would’ve been cleaner inside the bar but I was also originally planning on putting the battery in the stem instead of the seat post so it wasn’t going to work in my original plan. Really, finding out that my shifters only had one port screwed all my plans up.

deepakvrao
Posts: 142
Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:44 am

by deepakvrao

trex021 wrote:
Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:42 pm
No need to put the battery in the steerer tube (unless you want it there).
- Put the bar end junction on the left bar end
- Run a short cable from the bar end junction to the left shifter
- Run a short cable from the left shifter to the right shifter
- Run the long cable to the BB junction like you have it in your diagram
- Battery in seatpost

The BT-DN110 is the one you want. The bar end junction works great with 9070

BTW This guy has a good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fg1X8G2pn_I
Though he has his brakes setup english style so he has the bar end junction on the right. If you like your rear brake on the right shifter I recommend you do it my way.
Why is it that the brake configuration should impact which side the bar end junction box goes?

Maddie
Posts: 14
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:44 am

by Maddie

deepakvrao wrote:
Fri Mar 29, 2019 11:12 am
trex021 wrote:
Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:42 pm
No need to put the battery in the steerer tube (unless you want it there).
- Put the bar end junction on the left bar end
- Run a short cable from the bar end junction to the left shifter
- Run a short cable from the left shifter to the right shifter
- Run the long cable to the BB junction like you have it in your diagram
- Battery in seatpost

The BT-DN110 is the one you want. The bar end junction works great with 9070

BTW This guy has a good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fg1X8G2pn_I
Though he has his brakes setup english style so he has the bar end junction on the right. If you like your rear brake on the right shifter I recommend you do it my way.
Why is it that the brake configuration should impact which side the bar end junction box goes?
Because you can use the rear brake line (mechanical or hydro) as a guide for the e-cable to enter the frame.

deepakvrao
Posts: 142
Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:44 am

by deepakvrao

Maddie wrote:
Mon Apr 01, 2019 10:08 am
deepakvrao wrote:
Fri Mar 29, 2019 11:12 am
trex021 wrote:
Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:42 pm
No need to put the battery in the steerer tube (unless you want it there).
- Put the bar end junction on the left bar end
- Run a short cable from the bar end junction to the left shifter
- Run a short cable from the left shifter to the right shifter
- Run the long cable to the BB junction like you have it in your diagram
- Battery in seatpost

The BT-DN110 is the one you want. The bar end junction works great with 9070

BTW This guy has a good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fg1X8G2pn_I
Though he has his brakes setup english style so he has the bar end junction on the right. If you like your rear brake on the right shifter I recommend you do it my way.
Why is it that the brake configuration should impact which side the bar end junction box goes?
Because you can use the rear brake line (mechanical or hydro) as a guide for the e-cable to enter the frame.
Makes sense. Kind of. Though as @trex021 said, his right brake is on the right, and his junction box on the left. Is he running the long cable from the shifter to the BB junction box? Then, how is it relevant which side one places the junction box?

Would both the the below connections work for Di2?
Notes_190401_154818_d1d_1.jpg
Notes_190401_154907_7d4_1.jpg

dricked
Posts: 184
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:57 pm

by dricked

As long as everything is plugged in it works. You can run the wires in any configuration.

by Weenie


Schadenfreude
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2019 10:47 pm

by Schadenfreude

lord_brush wrote:
Wed Jan 24, 2018 1:57 pm
As an aside, I've just received an EW-WU111 Dfly transmitter (the new in-line one)

Will this work if I couple it up with two 300/350 wires in the chainstay, or does it have to be a bit close to the receiver/ computer?
I have hid mine in the other bar end that doesn't hold the junction box. So from the bar end junction box (on the left), I have one 35cm wire to the left shifter (through the drilled hole underneath the bar drop). Then from the bar end junction box, a longish (around 1m, probably too long) wire threaded through the bars to the other end (I put zip ties along the wire to remove any possibility of wire rattle). At the other end I connected the D-fly unit, which is also attached to another 35cm, which is threaded through the drilled hole and up to the right shifter. I don't have any issues with connection to the head unit. But I put it all together and tested it first before finalising and wrapping the bars.

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