I've given up on ever getting the fly-sports cranks so I need to know which ones to go to that can deliver the cranks they promise.
andysklein14 wrote:I dont remember what the Storch cranks weight in at but there are also some nice looking Carbonlord cranks on E-Bay regularly that are suppose to weight 380g for around $375.
Avoid Carbonlord cranks !
Everyone who owns em has problem, its not made right... over priced junk.
And theres no such thing as warranty on his product. It just another carbon version fly sport cranks.
based on the width of the frame where the crank goes through. I can't remember the name right now. So there's that dimention plus the width of the chainstays where the crankarms have to clear as they rotate.
I asked the guy at Starbike where I bought them. I bought the BB from also. I got the Tune AC 38. The guy at Starbike was very helpfull.
After playing with the '04 Dura-Ace ones at the Shimano trade show I'm thinking of a new custom frame with a BB shell machined to press a cartridge bearing straight in and save weight there (But your set-up would be lighter).
Since I live in a flat area of the country I use rings close to 50/44.
I can get TA's in most sizes and if you get rings within about 10 teeth you don't need ramps or pins to help shift.
I've ground on some alau. to make Ti hardware work but haven"t really gone after alau. parts.
All the weight reduction I've done has been in buying light parts and/or replacing steel bolts/nuts/hardware with lighter optimized bolts/nuts/hardware so far.
I'm getting to the end of this project and just want to get it done and weigh it.
I still want to take some pics and stuff for the site.
Glad to see I'm not the only one using these. Sydney is also very flat, but it can cause some pain when I'm not fit and head along the coast and start getting into the 10-12km climbs.
If you feel the need for speed (like bunch sprints) as I do you can mate them with a 54t outer (standing starts in this and the 11 build some serious strength...)
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