Help using the Campy UT-FD120 Tool with pics

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Bourquek
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2015 2:45 pm

by Bourquek

I've had some issues with my chain occasionally jamming when I shift down on my Record EPS group. I've also had the chain occasionally shift over the big ring when shifting up. It does not happen too often. Maybe once every couple months. I bought the front derailleur alignment tool thinking that may be the issue. Can you tell if my front derailleur is aligned properly with the tool? It looks like rear of the front cage needs to be rotated out more.
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Calnago
Posts: 6019
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Yes, that's not even close to parallel with the chainring. I don't use the tool. I use an 8mm allen wrench with the flat side against the teeth of the large sprocket and (for mechanical) I use the low limit screw to hold the front derailleur out to the big ring so that when I turn the the crank the flat side just grazes the edge of the front derailleur evenly through the rotation. This ensures it's parallel and it's tactile, so you can hear and feel the grazing. You can do it by sight using the tool above with the line on it as well. And from your second pic, you've got a ways to go. This is the very first step to ensuring your shifting will be spot on.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

Bourquek
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2015 2:45 pm

by Bourquek

Thanks Calnago! So all I need to do is rotate the front derailleur more to make it parallel with the line?


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Calnago
Posts: 6019
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Well, that's the first step. But it's one of the most important and a very critical one. In addition, I like to set the gap between the big rings tallest teeth (when the crank arm is in the 3 o'clock position) and the derailleur cage to between 2.5mm and 3mm. Meaning when the edge of the derailleur cage is directly over the teeth, I can pass a 2.5mm allen key between the teeth and the cage, but not a 3mm key. This has provided me good results and has been ok for swapping between any cassettes from 11/23 through to 11/29. Sometimes, if you have the cage set really close to the teeth, and then throw on a larger cassette, the chain could touch the top of the cage under certain conditions when on the largest cog. Although I don't think that happens as much, or at all, with the new stuff. I've just settled on that distance as being good for providing great shifting in all conditions regardless of the cassette I'm using.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

Bourquek
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2015 2:45 pm

by Bourquek

I checked the gap using a 2.5 Allen key and my derailleur is way higher than that above the front ring. Sounds like I need to bring it down and rotate it out. Thanks again Calnago for your help!


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Calnago
Posts: 6019
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Yes, those two changes should make quite a difference I would think.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

J.v.S.
Posts: 223
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:09 pm

by J.v.S.

Hey there,

I also found the following video quite useful. At around minute 4 they show how to use the tool.

https://youtu.be/Y_1pkG2XfT0

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BRM
Posts: 817
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm

by BRM

And for those that don't know, on the official Campa site there are vids like this grouped under: Support > video tuts

https://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Support/support

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