I'm wondering if anyone's seen something like this after replacing batteries?
EDIT: Here's a screencap of what happens. The cadence data is fine, but the power spikes up for around 2 seconds, and then down to 0 for one, and then back to normal.
I've got a friend who needs to replace the battery on his PCV (see picture attached) and I told him he can use a normal battery but he's worried cause there's 3 wires; anyone can help?
Thanks in advance!
I've always just used a cylindrical CR2-sized lithium ion battery with a round PCM at its base. It fits a lot better and gives you a lot more battery life. I only connected two wires, the red and black.
I guess if it was me I would desolder the diode and try with just the black and red wires. If it doesn't charge then put the diode back.
My guess is it's probably there to stop the battery discharging back into the charger or wiring harness in the event of a short circuit.
Do what Squint says, its what I did.
rma wrote:Maybe a little overtopic but my ROTOR 3D+ SRM (still with plenty battery life) has a fractured locking. Zero offset is normal and the readings are stable. I get a click from this part whenever I stand up on the pedals. I have spare lockrings, Loctite, lockring tool, vise, torquimeter and so on. I'm afraid to loose the factory calibration (don't have the tools to perform calibration here). Should I exchange the lockring myself? If so, what's the recommended torque? Thanks
I have a 2012 Campy SRM, and reed switches are sticked with mounting tape to the mainboard. If they get loose, they can click every time the magnet pass close to the switch.
Opposed to most SRM Cranks the DA9000 version has the lid on the outside, in order to access the electronics, the crank arm will have to be taken off and there's a small groove to place a screw driver to pop the cover out.
My problem is-while riding in the rain, after some time the power reads zero, only if I push hard I get some numbers (approx. a fifth of the what it should read), had this now for the second time-but always when riding in the rain, I noticed that the zero-offset is "zero" when checking while riding-(coasting), and if in "manual" mode it can't be set as it remains zero
When dry it works perfectly again. I noticed that this SRM crank has a small hole in the front just under the crank arm close to the center, can only be seen when the crank arm is off, and on the inside (other side of the hole)-there's a sort of membrane (White circle on the picure of about 10mm's). Guess this is to regulate humidity like the holes in bike frames. Now I'm wondering whether this causes to enter humidity while riding in the rain.
I will try to do some rain sessions with the hole taped off and see what happens.
el condor wrote:It's running with different cells than the srm's I had or know
Those are Eve ER14250 1/2AA 3.6v 1200mah batteries with tabs welded on each terminal that have damn small 32awg wires soldered to the tabs on the battery and a JST SH 2-pin nano connector that plugs into matching plugs on the PCB. Two guesses why/how I know that?
el condor wrote:I noticed that this SRM crank has a small hole in the front just under the crank arm close to the center
It sounds to me like the inner or outer o-rings which seal the cover from the elements are worn and need to be replaced, but my SRM is presently on the workbench with the cover off, but I did not notice a hole like that in the outer cover so I will have to re-check.
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