all this messing around with degreasers and chain cleaners is a waste of time and often does more harm than good.
BUT Prolink in the wet is rubbish, have to go for finish line cross country then but same process
Chains are inexpensive compared to cassette and chainrings. More importantly, they are more likely to have a catastrophic failure that may result in serious injury. That being said, I agree with those that regularly replace their chain prior to it being worn out. The use of several chains in a rotation is problematic, especially considering the need to reinstall the chain with a new pin or link to retain structural strength, not to mention in the proper orientation to ensure it meshes correctly with the (now) worn-in cassette and chainwheel.
I am not sure if people understand that "chain stretch" is the result of mechanical wear, not the metal links of the chain deforming. As the pins and sideplates grind away at each other, a small amount of wear-induced slop is produced at each interface, that over the total length of the chain is measured as "stretch". See other threads about measuring this stretch, as the Park device seems to have issues. Use an accurate shop ruler or calipers is the best method.
Don't cheap out - buy new chains regularly and save your cassette, chainwheels, shifting precision, and perhaps some of your skin if you avert a broken chain.
I also advocate lubing after each ride by wiping the chain off with a clean cloth, lubing the inside of the chain (I use Triflow because it works fine and is cheap), and wiping off the excess lube and dirt. Let sit till the next day (ride) and wipe off again. Now go ride, like I plan to right now...
2006 Orbea Lobular - Aluminum and Carbon frame with Ultegra
Sometimes I'll pop a q-tip in between each link at this point, but usually skip it.
Once installed, I put a small drop on each link and wipe lightly.
I try to do it the night before.
The Park Tool chain cleaner also works well
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Parlee Z5 XL (6055g/13.32lbs) Trek Madone 5.9 (7052-7500g)Jonesman Columbus Spirit (8680g)
Chase your dreams - it's only impossible until it's done
Then, run a couple of fresh fills of water on the chain to get all the orange stuff off. Lube. Nice and clean.
I used to just run a rag with acetone on the chain once a week, but the gunk/grime in the links never comes out well...so switch to the soak/clean method...works like a charm and very little mess. Just need a used crappy rag to catch some extra liquid coming out of the exit part of the device.
^ozrider....same method just saw your post.
Devon wrote:I use Morgan Blue chain degreaser and a stiff paintbrush. I've never seen results like bombertodd's photo though, that chain and cassette look brand new!
Both had more than a 1,000 miles on them when I took that picture. You can tell the chain is used from the silver rollers (gold wore off). They key to the Park cleaner is using their cleaner non diluted which is kind of expensive.
Park Chainbrite cleaner diluted
Zep heavy duty degreaser
and a few others I can't recall
Diesel or non diluted Park Chainbrite were ten times better than everything else I tried. I don't like the idea of have to dispose of diesel so I use the Park Stuff. I also clean my cassette with a stiff paint brush and a little park chainbrite.
A clean lubed chain is fast chain!
Thanks again! Oh and BomberTodd, you da man!
- Similar Topics
- Last post
- 13 Replies
- 1023 Views
Last post by sugarkane
Wed Jan 17, 2018 2:51 am
- 11 Replies
- 607 Views
Last post by Marin
Thu Mar 08, 2018 1:53 pm
- 16 Replies
- 753 Views
Last post by dbnm
Sun May 20, 2018 3:48 am
- 27 Replies
- 2191 Views
Last post by Ritxis
Fri Oct 06, 2017 8:20 am
- 1 Replies
- 282 Views
Last post by wheelbuilder
Sun Nov 19, 2017 6:32 pm