How to raise cadence effectively?
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One of my goals for the next 15 weeks is to be able to spin comfortably around 120-140 RPM.
I’m riding in a race called Little 500, they made a movie called Breaking Away based off of this. Anyways, every team races on the same 46x18 single-speed coaster-brake bike.The race usually goes about 24-25 MPH off the front, and that’s about 125 RPM with our gearing.
I can spin now around 105-110 pretty smoothly but start bouncing after that. Does anybody have any drills or ways of training to get your cadence up higher without bouncing? Also I have rollers and a Kickr if that impacts your response.
I’m riding in a race called Little 500, they made a movie called Breaking Away based off of this. Anyways, every team races on the same 46x18 single-speed coaster-brake bike.The race usually goes about 24-25 MPH off the front, and that’s about 125 RPM with our gearing.
I can spin now around 105-110 pretty smoothly but start bouncing after that. Does anybody have any drills or ways of training to get your cadence up higher without bouncing? Also I have rollers and a Kickr if that impacts your response.
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In short, 10 minutes stints of target cadence, at moderate intensity. And of course build up to it, target should increase incrementally.
IMO rollers will highlight any hitch in the pedal stroke, especially if they're free-motion rollers. A saddle height that feels 'right' might actually cause a deceleration, while 5mm lower is a smoother circle.
IMO rollers will highlight any hitch in the pedal stroke, especially if they're free-motion rollers. A saddle height that feels 'right' might actually cause a deceleration, while 5mm lower is a smoother circle.
I do a couple drills:
10 sec 90rpm, 10 sec 100, 10 sec 110, 10 sec 120, 10 sec 130, 10 sec 140, ...
1 min 100rpm, 1 min 110, 1 min 120, 1 min 130, ...
Go as high as you can go without losing form.
I have to increase resistance on the trainer a bit as rpms increase because I can't do 140 at say 100 watts.
10 sec 90rpm, 10 sec 100, 10 sec 110, 10 sec 120, 10 sec 130, 10 sec 140, ...
1 min 100rpm, 1 min 110, 1 min 120, 1 min 130, ...
Go as high as you can go without losing form.
I have to increase resistance on the trainer a bit as rpms increase because I can't do 140 at say 100 watts.
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When you say without losing form, do you mean without bouncing? I assume when you push cadence up, you’re saying you move it up from the bottom and slowly increase instead of pedaling at 120 rpm until you stop bouncing correct?AJS914 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2018 6:43 pmI do a couple drills:
10 sec 90rpm, 10 sec 100, 10 sec 110, 10 sec 120, 10 sec 130, 10 sec 140, ...
1 min 100rpm, 1 min 110, 1 min 120, 1 min 130, ...
Go as high as you can go without losing form.
I have to increase resistance on the trainer a bit as rpms increase because I can't do 140 at say 100 watts.
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- Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 5:00 am
I have a roller session planned for tonight, I’m going to tweak the saddle height 5, 7.5, and 10mm loser and see what kind of smoothness I can get.
Correct!JBeauBikes2 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2018 8:41 pmWhen you say without losing form, do you mean without bouncing? I assume when you push cadence up, you’re saying you move it up from the bottom and slowly increase instead of pedaling at 120 rpm until you stop bouncing correct?
Isn't saddle height set as a compromise for the team for this race - not your individual height?
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One work out I often do is 10 seconds fast, 10 seconds faster, 10 seconds fastest. In those last 10 seconds, try to spin as fast as you possibly can.
As far as bouncing goes, keeping your core tight can also reduce bouncing. And work on pulling up on the pedal and not just pushing down. If your right leg is pulling up as your left is pushing down, you tend to balance out a bit, reducing the bouncing. You'll be riding a fixed gear bike in that race, and the up-stroke is more relevant/important.
As far as bouncing goes, keeping your core tight can also reduce bouncing. And work on pulling up on the pedal and not just pushing down. If your right leg is pulling up as your left is pushing down, you tend to balance out a bit, reducing the bouncing. You'll be riding a fixed gear bike in that race, and the up-stroke is more relevant/important.
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Yes it is. As it works out for my team, one shorter guy will have his own bike and I’ll share a bike with 2 others. I’m in the middle of the other two guys height wise and the height discrepancies is only a 1.5 inch difference, so I think the bike will end up fitting me best.
We also build us bikes for Spring Series events like ITT’s, Miss-N-Out (basically Last man standing where the last across the line is eliminated every lap), and then Team Pursuit so I’ll have my own bike for all 3 of those.
Easiest way is to use short cranks. Some riders can adapt immediately, others may take a bit of training to adjust. You can really get your feet flying with 170 mm or 160 mm cranks.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
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