cx wheel advice...
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i'm putting the finished touches on some decisions for my first cx bike. i think my last concern is the wheels. is there a good, relatively light, durable wheelset that i can use both for training and races?
i have same mavic ksyrium elite road wheels not being used...will that work? or do cx bikes use cx specific wheels?
i have same mavic ksyrium elite road wheels not being used...will that work? or do cx bikes use cx specific wheels?
- Stolichnaya
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Those wheels will be just fine.
CX bikes do not use a different wheel size, but many companies and wheelbuilders do have a CX specific 700c wheelset designed to handle the pounding that CX can put on a wheelset.
I would bet that every model in the Ksyrium line has been crossed successfully at some point or another.
CX bikes do not use a different wheel size, but many companies and wheelbuilders do have a CX specific 700c wheelset designed to handle the pounding that CX can put on a wheelset.
I would bet that every model in the Ksyrium line has been crossed successfully at some point or another.
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- the Repeater
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Lowest pressure is your best friend racing cross.
Consider that top racers dicker over 1-3 PSI, and the lowest you can really run on a clincher is ~38-40. Elite level racers run down at 25psi or so. Doesn't sound like a lot compared to road tires, but the difference is HUGE.
Best investment: ANY tub wheels and four tub tires to get you through the season. Have a set of clinchers for spares or to train on if you train on your CX bike a lot.
Consider that top racers dicker over 1-3 PSI, and the lowest you can really run on a clincher is ~38-40. Elite level racers run down at 25psi or so. Doesn't sound like a lot compared to road tires, but the difference is HUGE.
Best investment: ANY tub wheels and four tub tires to get you through the season. Have a set of clinchers for spares or to train on if you train on your CX bike a lot.
Serious delirium.
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Ive been told that the best wheel is the one you can replace inside your budget!
Even if you have a very good wheel you can allways kill it!
So Buy only to 60% of your max budged or get two sets to have a spare on hand
Even if you have a very good wheel you can allways kill it!
So Buy only to 60% of your max budged or get two sets to have a spare on hand
I think Simon once said something like "the best wheel is the wheel you can afford three sets of with different tubulars mounted". Or am I imagining that?
he might have even said 4...
So I wasn't imagining it. That's good
My ~1500 gram clincher wheelset is Hugi 240 hubs and Velocity Aeroheads on 32 holes. My tires are Michellin Muds run between 28 to 35 lbs and I am 143 lbs. My other set is similar and they are DT 240 hubs. DT RR1.1 rims and 28f, 32r. All with butted DT spokes and aluminum nipples.
But if money were no object Id have two sets of tubies with different Dugasts and one set of clinchers with Muds for the really slippery, nasty days. OHHHH-and one extra rear wheel with a slick tire for warming up on the trainer. Thats not much too ask is it? Now wheres my money tree?
My coach went to US Cross nationals with his Zipp 404 tubies, but ran his Mavic Ksyrium clinchers with Michelin Muds due to the conditions.
But if money were no object Id have two sets of tubies with different Dugasts and one set of clinchers with Muds for the really slippery, nasty days. OHHHH-and one extra rear wheel with a slick tire for warming up on the trainer. Thats not much too ask is it? Now wheres my money tree?
My coach went to US Cross nationals with his Zipp 404 tubies, but ran his Mavic Ksyrium clinchers with Michelin Muds due to the conditions.
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Just need Dugast Rhinos for the muddy conditions. I think they are better than Muds. Also, Schwalbe Racing Ralphs seem to do better in the mud than the Michillens.
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Briscoelab wrote:Also, Schwalbe Racing Ralphs seem to do better in the mud than the Michillens.
Seem? What kind a conclusion is that?
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