What is a defy frame?Toybota wrote:Wow.. sweet build.
I'm thinking about doing something similar with a Defy Frame.
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What is a defy frame?Toybota wrote:Wow.. sweet build.
I'm thinking about doing something similar with a Defy Frame.
Bought a pair through this link on Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/product/WHZMF ... e-drop-bar
Interesting...so, that was the Magura high pressure hose? I ask because the Magura hose used on the low pressure systems (HS rim brakes, and the Julie disc?) is just a plastic hose with no reinforcement either. I might have to take some spare sections and play with some heat on themYes I was running the Magura hose exposed and outside the handlebar tape for some time, not ideal. The BFO hose is the only one out there that can be heated because it’s not built with any fiber mesh inside, the material itself is a very strong plastic, plus is extremely light. I was careful with the heat gun, from far away and slowing pulling the hose until I was happy with the angle, it can bend with a kink if done too fast.
It's a fun bike. Here's how I mounted the X-shifter:The XS800 it’s a cool frame, X-shifter is going strong, happy with it.
tanhalt wrote: ↑Wed Apr 14, 2021 10:43 pmBought a pair through this link on Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/product/WHZMF ... e-drop-bar
With the X-shifter pod, looks like this:
Interesting...so, that was the Magura high pressure hose? I ask because the Magura hose used on the low pressure systems (HS rim brakes, and the Julie disc?) is just a plastic hose with no reinforcement either. I might have to take some spare sections and play with some heat on themYes I was running the Magura hose exposed and outside the handlebar tape for some time, not ideal. The BFO hose is the only one out there that can be heated because it’s not built with any fiber mesh inside, the material itself is a very strong plastic, plus is extremely light. I was careful with the heat gun, from far away and slowing pulling the hose until I was happy with the angle, it can bend with a kink if done too fast.
It's a fun bike. Here's how I mounted the X-shifter:The XS800 it’s a cool frame, X-shifter is going strong, happy with it.
And, a larger view showing the whole bike (from before the X-shifter):
That's awesome! You know, if it wasn't for coming across that adapter, I never would've bought the XS800 frameset. I have the Magura HS33s on an old ProFlex MTB, and if I was considering a CX bike frame with canti brake studs, I WANTED to run the hydraulic rim brakes, and your adapter showed how that was possible. Thanks!andreszucs wrote: ↑Wed Apr 14, 2021 10:52 pmSo cool to see someone else using an identical setup! This handlebar clamp that you bought through Shapeways is my design btw, that's my shop account
Thanks....yeah, I like to say it has "ALLS the GEARS"andreszucs wrote: ↑Wed Apr 14, 2021 10:52 pmGota say, that's a badass and functional gravel bike you have there, the boss!
wow! just now I noticed the triple ring set on the front, you must have like 800% range????
Nice! And speaking of gravel bikes with suspension, here's a what I've been playing around with on the Fuji Jari for a bit:andreszucs wrote: ↑Wed Apr 14, 2021 10:52 pmMy other gravel bike (monster version) is in the works 120mm travel in the back and 150 front!
Sure did noticed the Hite-Rite! just too much going on in this thread to cover them all!
Somehow it worked on first attempt, I believe I used a shimano olive. I didn’t see any leaks after several rides so I didn’t touch anymore!Klaster_1 wrote:@andreszucs how did you manage to make the BFO hose work? Because it's 4mm thick vs 5mm of regular hoses, the olive does not bite into the hose when tightened down.
Just came across an idea if the problem persists: maybe a tinny cut on the back of the olive, just like a seat tube frame has a cut to ‘bite’ a seat post, you could try using a dremmel and a super thin cutter.Klaster_1 wrote:@andreszucs how did you manage to make the BFO hose work? Because it's 4mm thick vs 5mm of regular hoses, the olive does not bite into the hose when tightened down.
Super cool projects in this thread! Yeah, that sounds like a reasonable thing to try with cutting the olive, as some brands use olives that have a slit in them exactly as you describe. I don't know if they actually endorse the idea, but it can allow the olive to be reused too, as there is usually less plastic deformation with the slit design vs a solid olive, and once the compression nut is backed off you can often slide the used olive right off the hose, rather than having the crimp be permanently mushed into the hose material.andreszucs wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:23 pmJust came across an idea if the problem persists: maybe a tinny cut on the back of the olive, just like a seat tube frame has a cut to ‘bite’ a seat post, you could try using a dremmel and a super thin cutter.
Cool AMP fork Tom, I am loving all the restomod stuff as there are so many promising but abandoned branches of the bike family tree!
Sorry it took so long to reply to this...didn't see the notification before.TheKaiser wrote: ↑Thu Jul 22, 2021 6:30 pmCool AMP fork Tom, I am loving all the restomod stuff as there are so many promising but abandoned branches of the bike family tree!
Did that AMP fork come with disc tabs, in addition to the canti bosses that I see you have plugged in the pic, or did you have to rig something up custom? I am having trouble remembering how long they made those forks and how it overlapped with the intro of disc standards, but your's looks like it has alu legs, which were later models, so I am guessing it overlapped with IS disc mounts.
And then am I right that you are running a "reverse mullet" with a 26" front wheel which comes out roughly equal in OD to the rear due to the big ol' Dart tire?
I’m using the royal blood mineral oil from Magura, no issues. Sorry for the late replyTheKaiser wrote:Super cool projects in this thread! Yeah, that sounds like a reasonable thing to try with cutting the olive, as some brands use olives that have a slit in them exactly as you describe. I don't know if they actually endorse the idea, but it can allow the olive to be reused too, as there is usually less plastic deformation with the slit design vs a solid olive, and once the compression nut is backed off you can often slide the used olive right off the hose, rather than having the crimp be permanently mushed into the hose material.andreszucs wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:23 pmJust came across an idea if the problem persists: maybe a tinny cut on the back of the olive, just like a seat tube frame has a cut to ‘bite’ a seat post, you could try using a dremmel and a super thin cutter.
I saw someone inquire earlier in this thread about brake fluid incompatibility issues, but I didn't see a reply from you (apologies if it missed it). What fluid are you using as the Sram calipers would normally use DOT and the Magura levers would normally use mineral oil, and with most brands the seals will very rapidly swell and deform upon contact with the wrong fluid?
As I understand it, the issue usually is with trying to use DOT fluid with components designed for mineral oil. DOT fluid requires special O-ring and seal rubber compounds (typically EPDM, IIRC) that systems designed for mineral oil don't need to use (can get by with less expensive Buna-N type materials). It's the latter that swells upon contact with DOT fluid, and EPDM is just fine with mineral oil.andreszucs wrote: ↑Tue Aug 24, 2021 8:47 pmI’m using the royal blood mineral oil from Magura, no issues. Sorry for the late replyTheKaiser wrote:Super cool projects in this thread! Yeah, that sounds like a reasonable thing to try with cutting the olive, as some brands use olives that have a slit in them exactly as you describe. I don't know if they actually endorse the idea, but it can allow the olive to be reused too, as there is usually less plastic deformation with the slit design vs a solid olive, and once the compression nut is backed off you can often slide the used olive right off the hose, rather than having the crimp be permanently mushed into the hose material.andreszucs wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:23 pmJust came across an idea if the problem persists: maybe a tinny cut on the back of the olive, just like a seat tube frame has a cut to ‘bite’ a seat post, you could try using a dremmel and a super thin cutter.
I saw someone inquire earlier in this thread about brake fluid incompatibility issues, but I didn't see a reply from you (apologies if it missed it). What fluid are you using as the Sram calipers would normally use DOT and the Magura levers would normally use mineral oil, and with most brands the seals will very rapidly swell and deform upon contact with the wrong fluid?
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