Crux 2021

[req110]

"Lack of stiffness..."

I'm north of 93kg and it aint sloppy, more razor sharp. 56cm frame.

Would look elsewhere in your build to find why it's not feeling right.

absolutely, i owned sl6, sl7, sl8, crux... i don't find crux noodly or not stiff enough.
Actually i am not surprised for such statement from an inactive profile promoting chinese frameset.

[req110]

Ultegra FD is not capable of handling wide crankset. You can workaround this by putting spacers underneath it, but it's not a clean solution.

That wasn't what I meant. Just use the P2M, normal axle, and 50/34 chainrings. There's no need to get the wide axle. Just run what he has. No need to buy extra stuff.

I had normal ultegra di2 12s 50/34 on my crux (before i moved to Force D2 xplr), it looked ok, but in rough sections you get lot of chain slap (you can swap to GRX mech for sure), and the clearance between 34T chainring (and it's bolts) and chainstay was too close. I found that too risky and also wanted a bit of simplicity of 1x12... Also jump between gears on 1x12 is more convenient in gravel sections, i found myself having to shift 2-3 cogs on 2x12 to adjust between some gravel turns and slope changes.

[LanceLegstrong]

Ultegra FD is not capable of handling wide crankset. You can workaround this by putting spacers underneath it, but it's not a clean solution.

That wasn't what I meant. Just use the P2M, normal axle, and 50/34 chainrings. There's no need to get the wide axle. Just run what he has. No need to buy extra stuff.

I had normal ultegra di2 12s 50/34 on my crux (before i moved to Force D2 xplr), it looked ok, but in rough sections you get lot of chain slap (you can swap to GRX mech for sure), and the clearance between 34T chainring (and it's bolts) and chainstay was too close. I found that too risky and also wanted a bit of simplicity of 1x12... Also jump between gears on 1x12 is more convenient in gravel sections, i found myself having to shift 2-3 cogs on 2x12 to adjust between some gravel turns and slope changes.

Not sure why you think a front derailleur is going to change chain slap but ok. And what you like about 1x (big jumps) is exactly why I dislike it. Pressing a button one more time isn’t any extra hassle. I’m still not a fan of 1x, the jumps are just too big. And Shimano FDs shift flawlessly so there’s no downside.

Either way, I ran 52/36t on my Crux, now running 50/34t and there’s no clearance issues for me. My point to the original question was about simplicity and not having to buy a bunch of new parts. If he has the parts to run his crankset, it’ll likely fit just fine without having to buy a new axle and FD.

[joesch]

Either way, I ran 52/36t on my Crux, now running 50/34t and there’s no clearance issues for me. My point to the original question was about simplicity and not having to buy a bunch of new parts. If he has the parts to run his crankset, it’ll likely fit just fine without having to buy a new axle and FD.

Thanks for the feedback - still waiting for my frame to arrive and then test if it works (or not).
I would definitely prefer to stay with the regular Ultegra FD, not only because of the extra cost for a wider axle, but also for the better shifting speed and performance (as I understand the GRX is based on the 105 - which still uses the old Di2 FD motor).

It would also eliminate my doubts about the compatibility of 50-34 and GRX FD - I guess it is not a problem in real life, but the GRX FD is only compatible with max 48 teeth per specification. Not sure what the reason is (maybe the form factor of the chain guide?), but an Ultegra FD would be one less thing to worry about.

[fa63]

You don't want to use a GRX front derailleur with a regular Ultegra crankset; the GRX FD sits 2.5 mm further outboard so it won't be ideal without the accompanying GRX crankset (which also sits further outboard by the same amount).

Just try the 50/34 crankset with the normal Ultegra FD; you should be fine as long as you are not running too big a tire (otherwise the tire may rub the FD).

[req110]

Ultegra FD is not capable of handling wide crankset. You can workaround this by putting spacers underneath it, but it's not a clean solution.

That wasn't what I meant. Just use the P2M, normal axle, and 50/34 chainrings. There's no need to get the wide axle. Just run what he has. No need to buy extra stuff.

I had normal ultegra di2 12s 50/34 on my crux (before i moved to Force D2 xplr), it looked ok, but in rough sections you get lot of chain slap (you can swap to GRX mech for sure), and the clearance between 34T chainring (and it's bolts) and chainstay was too close. I found that too risky and also wanted a bit of simplicity of 1x12... Also jump between gears on 1x12 is more convenient in gravel sections, i found myself having to shift 2-3 cogs on 2x12 to adjust between some gravel turns and slope changes.

Not sure why you think a front derailleur is going to change chain slap but ok. And what you like about 1x (big jumps) is exactly why I dislike it. Pressing a button one more time isn’t any extra hassle. I’m still not a fan of 1x, the jumps are just too big. And Shimano FDs shift flawlessly so there’s no downside.

Either way, I ran 52/36t on my Crux, now running 50/34t and there’s no clearance issues for me. My point to the original question was about simplicity and not having to buy a bunch of new parts. If he has the parts to run his crankset, it’ll likely fit just fine without having to buy a new axle and FD.

i meant GRX RD in regards to chainslap

[tetlej]

I am curious what you mean by lack of stiffness. Can you elaborate a bit more if you don't mind?

Hi, compared to the fe806 the frontend feels like spaghetti. Same bar+stem combo on both bikes. 78kg, ex-bmxer:)

[liam7020]

I have the Tantan version of the Fe806 and must say its an excellent frame for cross. I'm sure the Crux is a superb frameset - I have a SL6 and a SL8 - but there isn't £2.5K+ difference in the performance of the FE806 and the Crux. When its covered in several kgs of mud the performance differential probably narrows even further.

[EddyTwerckx]

I am curious what you mean by lack of stiffness. Can you elaborate a bit more if you don't mind?

Hi, compared to the fe806 the frontend feels like spaghetti. Same bar+stem combo on both bikes. 78kg, ex-bmxer:)

Spaghetti. Lol.

[kervelo]

Hi, compared to the fe806 the frontend feels like spaghetti. Same bar+stem combo on both bikes. 78kg, ex-bmxer:)

It is quite obvious there is most likely something wrong with your crux build, not with the crux frame.

[Yoln]

If there is one thing the crux doesn't lack, it's stiffness.

I'm guessing you messed up something with your build

[emjayel]

Does anyone with a 2025 model know if the headset issue that people have been having is fixed? Looking at ordering a 2025 and want to know if I should just put a wolf tooth headset in right away.

thanks!

You can add 0.5mm of headset shims to fix the problem. That's what I did. Specialized said they may have replacement top headset bearing covers in stock at the end of Nov.

I purchased a 2025 crux comp and went to see it at the bike shop as it isn't completely built yet. it appears that the cone cap is carbon from what i can see, so hopefully it is the new updated part:

[EddyTwerckx]

Does anyone with a 2025 model know if the headset issue that people have been having is fixed? Looking at ordering a 2025 and want to know if I should just put a wolf tooth headset in right away.

thanks!

You can add 0.5mm of headset shims to fix the problem. That's what I did. Specialized said they may have replacement top headset bearing covers in stock at the end of Nov.

I purchased a 2025 crux comp and went to see it at the bike shop as it isn't completely built yet. it appears that the cone cap is carbon from what i can see, so hopefully it is the new updated part:

It's always been carbon. Mine from 2022 was carbon.

[srtlewis]

So Crux-ish question. I am in need of a new bb for my s-works crux. Love it do a fair amount of off road gravel and all road rides in all weather. Thinking of going with either Chris King steel or Kogel / c-bear ceramic w/ cross seals. Any opinions, experience or advice appreciated

[CasualRider]

So Crux-ish question. I am in need of a new bb for my s-works crux. Love it do a fair amount of off road gravel and all road rides in all weather. Thinking of going with either Chris King steel or Kogel / c-bear ceramic w/ cross seals. Any opinions, experience or advice appreciated

In my experience, the most basic DA or Ultegra BB is the way to go. Cheap, reliable, and serviceable. Ceramic bearings is a waste of money on gravel bike and it usually doesn't last anywhere as long as steel one. This is my experience after many gravel races including the ones with water crossings etc.