Crux 2021?

Especially for light weight issues concerning cyclocross / touring bikes & parts.

Moderator: Moderator Team

Post Reply
FactoryMatt
Posts: 872
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:35 am

by FactoryMatt

pro tip if you're running 38s on the frame. tape some can on the stays. i run 38 vittorias, and i let the rear wheel get a little out of true. only took a couple hundred miles. the edge of the rubber tread layer where it meets the carcass rubbed thru the paint a little bit (not the tread blocks themselves). doh!

Image

Image

rothwem
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:45 pm
Location: Arden, NC

by rothwem

So I finally got around to cutting the steerer tube, I had just moved the stem up a bit after @FactoryMatt’s warning. I forgot that the front brake was internally routed and hydraulic though and I didn’t feel like having to bleed the brake afterwards, so this happened:

Image

Yep, it’s as bad as it looks :D

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



FactoryMatt
Posts: 872
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:35 am

by FactoryMatt

o boy. that doesn't look like a fun time.

rothwem
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:45 pm
Location: Arden, NC

by rothwem

FactoryMatt wrote:o boy. that doesn't look like a fun time.
Yeah the ergonomics weren’t great. I got it done though, but I wish I had one of those parktool saw guides though.

Nefarious86
Moderator
Posts: 3670
Joined: Sun May 25, 2014 4:57 am

by Nefarious86

My often road, rarely Groad crux rides like an "SL5" disc with more comfort. No problems on a 34ish km/h average bunch ride one morning then smashing along back roads and fire trails another. Started off as a gravel/rain/ergo build and fast became the most often ridden bike I own at times.

52/36 crank and 35mm tyres (Roubaix pro 30/32 tubeless on C38 rims) and the same reach as my SL6 with about 10mm more stack.

Image
Image
ImageImage
Image
Using Tapatalk

FactoryMatt
Posts: 872
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:35 am

by FactoryMatt

these bikes are soo underrated and sneaky fast. awesome build.

niklasp
Posts: 126
Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2016 5:36 pm

by niklasp

FactoryMatt wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 4:19 pm
Nice build. Yeah spesh spec of "OSBB" doesnt tell you much. Its technically a PF30 with bb30 cups glued in.

Not to be a stickler but on your stem setup, spesh recommends no spacers above the stem. At the very least you want to make sure the clamp area of the stem is not below the internal expansion plug.
Usually a spacer above the stem is needed for the stem to have 100% clamping on the fork. I ride with maybe 10mm spacers above the stem without problems. The bike is used for about 6000k right now.

Love my crux but how the hell could they just bump up the price like this? They're killing it.

rothwem
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:45 pm
Location: Arden, NC

by rothwem

I’ve got a couple hundred miles on this thing now. Overall, I’m super happy with it but I have found a couple of slightly annoying things since the last time I posted:

-I could use just a teeny weenie bit more tire clearance on the back. My 38mm tracer fits without rubbing on a 21mm internal rim, but it’s snug. I think it’s about a 40mm actual size, but man, I’d really like to have a bit more mud room.

-also-

-I can’t keep the *f##k* seatpost from slipping. Ive got a cheap alloy post in there right now, and I’m a bit afraid to put the carbon one I ordered in there because even at 7.5nm the post still slips and I’m worried I’ll crack the carbon post with the torque required to keep it from slipping. I’ve slathered it with carbon assembly paste, any other thoughts?

FactoryMatt
Posts: 872
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:35 am

by FactoryMatt

rothwem wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:31 pm

-I can’t keep the *f##k* seatpost from slipping. Ive got a cheap alloy post in there right now, and I’m a bit afraid to put the carbon one I ordered in there because even at 7.5nm the post still slips and I’m worried I’ll crack the carbon post with the torque required to keep it from slipping. I’ve slathered it with carbon assembly paste, any other thoughts?
this is what you do. take the seat clamp wedge out of the frame. take your time, do NOT break the rubber o-ring holding the wedge and the bolt together.

take some fine sandpaper and gently rough up the contact surface of the wedge on the seatpost side. then, apply light grease to the sliding surfaces between the bolt and the backside of the wedge AND LIGHTLY to the threads of the bolt.

then, very carefully torque it to 6.5NM using a calibrated torque wrench.

failing that, use a thin (e.g. Silca) tubeless rim tape and place one or two narrow strips of tape on the front and back of the seatpost as shims just below the clamping area of the seatpost. and failing that, maybe even on the clamping area.

----

also, new Crux coming second half of '21 i've heard :)

rothwem
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:45 pm
Location: Arden, NC

by rothwem

FactoryMatt wrote:
rothwem wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:31 pm

-I can’t keep the *f##k* seatpost from slipping. Ive got a cheap alloy post in there right now, and I’m a bit afraid to put the carbon one I ordered in there because even at 7.5nm the post still slips and I’m worried I’ll crack the carbon post with the torque required to keep it from slipping. I’ve slathered it with carbon assembly paste, any other thoughts?
this is what you do. take the seat clamp wedge out of the frame. take your time, do NOT break the rubber o-ring holding the wedge and the bolt together.

take some fine sandpaper and gently rough up the contact surface of the wedge on the seatpost side. then, apply light grease to the sliding surfaces between the bolt and the backside of the wedge AND LIGHTLY to the threads of the bolt.

then, very carefully torque it to 6.5NM using a calibrated torque wrench.

failing that, use a thin (e.g. Silca) tubeless rim tape and place one or two narrow strips of tape on the front and back of the seatpost as shims just below the clamping area of the seatpost. and failing that, maybe even on the clamping area.

----

also, new Crux coming second half of '21 i've heard :)
Cool, will give the sandpaper trick a shot tomorrow. I’m curious what the 2022 Crux will be like, but there’s a 99% chance I’m not getting one.

rothwem
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:45 pm
Location: Arden, NC

by rothwem

rothwem wrote:
FactoryMatt wrote:
rothwem wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:31 pm

-I can’t keep the *f##k* seatpost from slipping. Ive got a cheap alloy post in there right now, and I’m a bit afraid to put the carbon one I ordered in there because even at 7.5nm the post still slips and I’m worried I’ll crack the carbon post with the torque required to keep it from slipping. I’ve slathered it with carbon assembly paste, any other thoughts?
this is what you do. take the seat clamp wedge out of the frame. take your time, do NOT break the rubber o-ring holding the wedge and the bolt together.

take some fine sandpaper and gently rough up the contact surface of the wedge on the seatpost side. then, apply light grease to the sliding surfaces between the bolt and the backside of the wedge AND LIGHTLY to the threads of the bolt.

then, very carefully torque it to 6.5NM using a calibrated torque wrench.

failing that, use a thin (e.g. Silca) tubeless rim tape and place one or two narrow strips of tape on the front and back of the seatpost as shims just below the clamping area of the seatpost. and failing that, maybe even on the clamping area.

----

also, new Crux coming second half of '21 i've heard :)
Cool, will give the sandpaper trick a shot tomorrow. I’m curious what the 2022 Crux will be like, but there’s a 99% chance I’m not getting one.
Hey—that seems to have fixed it. 3 rides with no seatpost movement, but I don’t want to jinx anything.

New issue now though...bb30 bearings are dead after ~350 miles worth of riding. I hope this doesn’t become a thing.

FactoryMatt
Posts: 872
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:35 am

by FactoryMatt

Awesome! good deal.

it's a bitch, but the best fix IMO is to hacksaw the stock "bb30" cups out of the frame and run a PF 30 bb. this allows larger bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqKwJ9vXvYY


https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/pre ... 7590616123 (68mm width shell)

rothwem
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:45 pm
Location: Arden, NC

by rothwem

FactoryMatt wrote:Awesome! good deal.

it's a bitch, but the best fix IMO is to hacksaw the stock "bb30" cups out of the frame and run a PF 30 bb. this allows larger bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqKwJ9vXvYY


https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/pre ... 7590616123 (68mm width shell)
Wow. That guy has some stones. I’ve done some dicey cuts with a hacksaw (see a couple posts up) but I don’t think I’d do that.

FactoryMatt
Posts: 872
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:35 am

by FactoryMatt

rothwem wrote:
Fri Nov 13, 2020 1:35 am
FactoryMatt wrote:Awesome! good deal.

it's a bitch, but the best fix IMO is to hacksaw the stock "bb30" cups out of the frame and run a PF 30 bb. this allows larger bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqKwJ9vXvYY


https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/pre ... 7590616123 (68mm width shell)
Wow. That guy has some stones. I’ve done some dicey cuts with a hacksaw (see a couple posts up) but I don’t think I’d do that.
i've done two of them so far. the trick is to not cut it all the way. just enough so it will tear when you get a chisel under the flange and "rip" it with a set of knipex pliers.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



samarskyrider
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:14 pm
Location: Moscow, Russia
Contact:

by samarskyrider

Can anyone advise what size of clamp is needed for front derailleur?

Concerning the wheels, will it make sense to run 23mm ID rims on this frame?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post Reply