Just about done with the Spyre SLC. Juin Tech?

[Catagory6]

too many problems with the design of this caliper, not to mention compatibility with Campagnolo. the fraying cable just doesn't sit well with me. and using sheathing doesn't sit well with me either.
and 1/2 way through a ride with steep descents, the levers are scary-close to bottoming out. which doesn't sit too well either

i am using TRP compressionless housing

i've heard that Juin Tech (yokozuna?) has a much better pull ratio with campy levers. F1, X1, GT-f ??
anybody have real-world comparison/experience?

anything else i should consider?

[joejack951]

Campy levers will also work well with Avid BB7 Road calipers and TRP HY/RDs, either modded or with short pull conversion arms (shameless plug for my design). I believe Paul Components also has a short pull caliper, the Klamper.

[bm0p700f]

The trp Hyrd are not campagnolo compatible. Like the spyres they are made to work with shimano 11 speed era brake levers. The levers will therefore come back to the bars if set up the trp way. To avoid that you have to set them up so the the arm is partially rotated I.e the pads start of closer to the rotor meaning rub and the piston never fully retracts which means they dknt self adjust for pad weae. in time has also caused the piston to go cockeyed.

You can cut a cable anchor groove in the trp calipers further in that helps alot.

Any caliper made to work with shimano 11 speed era brake lever I.e the new cable pull, wont be compatible with older shimano or campagnolo brake levers.

Paul klampers offer a campagnolo compatible caliper.

I spent 3 years using trp spyres and hybrids calipers with campagnolo brake levers and that was three years of brake rub, levers back to the bars, brown shorts moments. In the end I went for shimano rs685 levers and brakes as I needed post mount. I cant say these are great either (I dint like shimano still ergomonics) but at least I can stop now.


If your running campag, use the Paul calipers or cut a new cable groove in the arm further in and it will work better. A larger anchor plate will help.

[joejack951]

The trp Hurd are jot campagnolo co.patible. the arm length is the same. The lever will come back to the bars. To avoid that you have to set them up so the the arm is partially rotated I.e the pads start of closer to the rotor meaning rub and the piston never fully retracts which in time has caused the piston to go cockeyed.

You can cut a cable anchor groove in the trp calipers further in that helps alot.

Any caliper made to work with shimano 11 speed brake lever I.e the new cable pu wont be compatible with older shimano or campagnolo brake levers.

Paul klampers offer a campagnolo compatible caliper.

I spent 3 years using trp spyres and hybrids calipers with campagnolo brake levers and that was three years of brake rub, levers back to the bars, brown shorts moments. In the end I went for shimano rs685 levers and brakes as I needed post mount.

If your running campag, use the Paul calipers or cut a new cable groove in the arm further in and it will work better. A larger anchor plate will help.

If it won't offend anyone, I'll post a link to the solution mentioned above that I created for using TRP HY/RDs with Campagnolo levers. I built my disc road bike in late 2016, right before Campy came out with their hydro levers and didn't want a 'hacked' solution to solving the pull issue.

[bm0p700f]

Oh you did say short pull conversion arms. Missed that.

[bm0p700f]

A link would be useful.

[joejack951]

A link would be useful.

JJBP Short Pull Conversion Brake Arm Set for TRP HY/RD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CCKD85

[ruklaw]

Nice work JoeJack!

To the OP: depending on what group you're running, there are some deals on campag hydraulic kits to be had, the H11 shifters and calipers are on bike24 fairly cheap (seem to recall they were cheaper perhaps 150 euros each around black friday so might come down again soon) - might be worth spending the money to get the proper solution (and obviously you can sell on your old shifters to offset the cost a little).

[Catagory6]

Nice work JoeJack!

To the OP: depending on what group you're running, there are some deals on campag hydraulic kits to be had, the H11 shifters and calipers are on bike24 fairly cheap (seem to recall they were cheaper perhaps 150 euros each around black friday so might come down again soon) - might be worth spending the money to get the proper solution (and obviously you can sell on your old shifters to offset the cost a little).

hydraulic systems seem like a major PITA. not to mention, the shifters are fffuuuuuuGLY!!!
but i'll take a look

edit: i would have to get new derailleurs with those shifters. so, probably not going the hydro route

[DJT21]

The Juin Tech do work far better with Campag levers than the Spyres do.

[joejack951]

The Juin Tech do work far better with Campag levers than the Spyres do.

Spyres are designed for Shimano SLR-EV levers, aka road 'long pull' levers. They have a pivot point ~36mm front the cable anchor. Campagnolo, SRAM, and older Shimano levers all have the pivot point 24mm or less from the cable anchor. None of them will work properly with Spyres as a result. Unfortunately, due to the design of the Spyre is it next to impossible to shorten the pull required to actuate them. I haven't fully given up on designing something for that purpose but every time I look at it hoping for inspiration I come away thinking a whole new caliper would be a better idea.

[DJT21]

The Juin Tech do work far better with Campag levers than the Spyres do.

Spyres are designed for Shimano SLR-EV levers, aka road 'long pull' levers. They have a pivot point ~36mm front the cable anchor. Campagnolo, SRAM, and older Shimano levers all have the pivot point 24mm or less from the cable anchor. None of them will work properly with Spyres as a result. Unfortunately, due to the design of the Spyre is it next to impossible to shorten the pull required to actuate them. I haven't fully given up on designing something for that purpose but every time I look at it hoping for inspiration I come away thinking a whole new caliper would be a better idea.

Yes, I did search for something when I owned Spyres. Presumably it'd need to be a shorter actuating arm? Which would be difficult due to the clearance with the caliper body.

[joejack951]

Yes, I did search for something when I owned Spyres. Presumably it'd need to be a shorter actuating arm? Which would be difficult due to the clearance with the caliper body.

Yes, you need to create a shorter distance from where the cable attaches to the brake actuator arm pivot. But as you've noted, there's not really any room available as currently designed. What I really wanted to create as a low cost conversion kit was some sort of adapter that would bolt on to the current arm to relocate the cable attachment. But in doing so, the angle of exit of the brake cable becomes severely compromised and/or the conversion kit interferes with full travel of the actuator arm. A new arm might solve the problem but those Spyre actuator arms are big and fairly complex. By the time I CNC'd new arms, I'd likely need to sell a pair for ~$75 or more and not many customers are going to bite at that price. So I've just sat on the project as a result, dreaming of some day producing my own weight weenie mechanical disc caliper. Luckily, the TRP HY/RDs (with my new arms) work fantastic with Campy levers so while the weight could be better, functionally I'm good to go. 7.56kg as pictured:

[DJT21]

Yes, I did search for something when I owned Spyres. Presumably it'd need to be a shorter actuating arm? Which would be difficult due to the clearance with the caliper body.

Yes, you need to create a shorter distance from where the cable attaches to the brake actuator arm pivot. But as you've noted, there's not really any room available as currently designed. What I really wanted to create as a low cost conversion kit was some sort of adapter that would bolt on to the current arm to relocate the cable attachment. But in doing so, the angle of exit of the brake cable becomes severely compromised and/or the conversion kit interferes with full travel of the actuator arm. A new arm might solve the problem but those Spyre actuator arms are big and fairly complex. By the time I CNC'd new arms, I'd likely need to sell a pair for ~$75 or more and not many customers are going to bite at that price. So I've just sat on the project as a result, dreaming of some day producing my own weight weenie mechanical disc caliper. Luckily, the TRP HY/RDs (with my new arms) work fantastic with Campy levers so while the weight could be better, functionally I'm good to go. 7.56kg as pictured:

Yeh, I read your other thread about the HY/RD arm and wondered if you'd produced something for the Spyres. The HY/RD are just to big/bulky/heavy for me, hence I went with Juin Tech (which aren't perfect, but are much better than the Spyres).

The other problem I found with the Spyres is the pistons (if that's the best way to describe them) can wind themselves out if they've not got enough threadlock on them. But then if there's too much, you risk them seizing up.

It's a shame there's probably no longer much of a market for cable actuated disk brakes, otherwise someone might've come up with a decent design.

[Catagory6]

The Juin Tech do work far better with Campag levers than the Spyres do.

thank you for confirming this

since i have flat mounts, my choices are either F1 or the 4-piston GT-F
wondering if the later worth double the price

i think the X1 are off the list since they seem to be th same price as the GT, and they dont make flat mount version

maybe one of each and switch them around to experiment for feel and performance? i dont think the GT come in singles