Agreed, think this is more a reflection that most of the current roadbikes are due a refreshbespoke wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 12:47 pmThat is interesting; probably skewed for cervelo given the Tri market where they are so strong has been hammered, and the R5 is now very long in the tooth.maquisard wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:33 pmInteresting statistic in the CyclingTips article on Aspero-5 - "As of March 2021, the Aspero, along with the fresh do-it-all Caledonia, made up approximately 60% of Cervelo’s global sales, a staggering fact given the company continues to be a leader in the triathlon world and is best known as a performance road brand."
I am sure Spez and Trek are more 'balanced' in sales per genre
But its clear gravel/all road is here to stay...
Cervelo Áspero Gravel bike
Moderator: Moderator Team
The R-series and R5 are old because the demand is not there - it is catch 22.
The new R5 is already being ridden in testing by TJV. So it will launch for Tour de France I guess. It is same integrated cockpit as Caledonia-5,Aspero-5. Thankfully it does not have dropped seatstays.
The new R5 is already being ridden in testing by TJV. So it will launch for Tour de France I guess. It is same integrated cockpit as Caledonia-5,Aspero-5. Thankfully it does not have dropped seatstays.
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Apparently I'm getting Aspero Apex 1 on monday. Do you guys have any bb/cassette recommendations?
Stock 11-42t with 40t chainring might be good on gravel, but I hate those 2 teeth jumps on a road. So maybe 11-36t? I had ordered 11-30t for 2x GRX version but that might be too much with the 40t
https://www.starbike.com/en/wheels-manu ... nks-black/
Was there a cheaper Sram bb that fits bbright or is that worth the extra money?
Stock 11-42t with 40t chainring might be good on gravel, but I hate those 2 teeth jumps on a road. So maybe 11-36t? I had ordered 11-30t for 2x GRX version but that might be too much with the 40t
https://www.starbike.com/en/wheels-manu ... nks-black/
Was there a cheaper Sram bb that fits bbright or is that worth the extra money?
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I'm using the stock 48mm tires on non-stock 25mm I.W. wheels and there's about 5mm of clearance in front and back, I dont know if I would go any larger personally
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I currently have a mullet wheelset with a 27.5x2.0" Continental Race King on the rear (XC race tire). I have it on a 30mm internal rim and it just barely clears 4mm to the NDS chainstay. I think it's a hair more room on the DS. I am rebuilding the Easton rear wheel that came with it with a 650b Easton ARC 25 offset (25mm internal) rim as my main mullet wheelset. My hope is that it will buy me a little more clearance, I'm not going to try to fit a bigger tire.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
Hi Weight Weenies,
I might have seen this bottom bracket issue somewhere, but I could not find it (large forum).
Yesterday, my grx600 crankarm fell off suddenly. The ridges on the spindle were completely round. Yes, it is a non-hollow-tech (softer) crank than the grx800, but still, the bike is 2.5 months old.
Then, I saw that the underside of the bottom bracket was partially worn away. I never heard any scratching nor felt any resistance.
Your thoughts?
https://flic.kr/p/2kUvKV8
https://flic.kr/p/2kUojNB
https://flic.kr/p/2kUtkCd
https://flic.kr/p/2kUtkBG
Thanks,
Tim
I might have seen this bottom bracket issue somewhere, but I could not find it (large forum).
Yesterday, my grx600 crankarm fell off suddenly. The ridges on the spindle were completely round. Yes, it is a non-hollow-tech (softer) crank than the grx800, but still, the bike is 2.5 months old.
Then, I saw that the underside of the bottom bracket was partially worn away. I never heard any scratching nor felt any resistance.
Your thoughts?
https://flic.kr/p/2kUvKV8
https://flic.kr/p/2kUojNB
https://flic.kr/p/2kUtkCd
https://flic.kr/p/2kUtkBG
Thanks,
Tim
Last edited by timcrssn on Fri Apr 23, 2021 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
I am running 10X42 with a Rotor Aldhu 2X with the wider offset up front on GRX di2. No issues. Different bike though - Factor LS.
Lots of bikes: currently riding Enve Melee, Krypton Pro, S Works Crux, S Works Epic Evo, SL7.
In build: SW SL8
In build: SW SL8
Interesting. Got photos of the rear setup?sigma wrote:I am running 10X42 with a Rotor Aldhu 2X with the wider offset up front on GRX di2. No issues. Different bike though - Factor LS.
Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk
Yep I will snap a few tomorrow in the daylight and post them up. Took it for a good run today and it's shifting super smooth. Just going to reprogram the Di2 to make sure I never inadvertently end up Big Big but I tested it on the flats and it ran fine.
Lots of bikes: currently riding Enve Melee, Krypton Pro, S Works Crux, S Works Epic Evo, SL7.
In build: SW SL8
In build: SW SL8
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So the first thing that comes to my mind is that the preload adjuster wasn't tightened and the bolts on the crankarm weren't properly torqued down. The end cap is for pre-load only, so that won't keep the crankarm on, but even with 1/2 the splines engaged when properly torqued. The other issue, the rub on the arm/shell; in all of the photos with the spindle installed, there is no dust cover. If that wasn't installed, there may have been lateral play that allowed the crank arm to rub. Were there any spacers on the DS side of the spindle? Similar question on the DS dust cover.timcrssn wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:17 amHi Weight Weenies,
I might have seen this bottom bracket issue somewhere, but I could not find it (large forum).
Yesterday, my grx600 crankarm fell off suddenly. The ridges on the spindle were completely round. Yes, it is a non-hollow-tech (softer) crank than the grx800, but still, the bike is 2.5 months old.
Then, I saw that the underside of the bottom bracket was partially worn away. I never heard any scratching nor felt any resistance.
Your thoughts?
https://flic.kr/p/2kUvKV8
https://flic.kr/p/2kUojNB
https://flic.kr/p/2kUtkCd
https://flic.kr/p/2kUtkBG
Thanks,
Tim
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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www.starbike.com
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- Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:47 pm
- Location: Near DFW Airport
I think the only way to do it is to setup synchro shifting. As I recall, that will automatically switch between the big ring and the small ring at a cog of your choosing. I tried that, and semi-synchro very briefly, didn't like it.
I'm honestly not terribly concerned about big-big aside from the possibility of a dropped chain if backpedaling. I think the additional wear issue is over-hyped unless you spend a LOT of time in the big-big, and if that's the case, you probably need a smaller big ring. But that's just me.
{edit} I suppose if you're running a total tooth difference greater than the capacity of the RD, that could be an issue {/edit}
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.