Gravel groups questions??

Especially for light weight issues concerning cyclocross / touring bikes & parts.

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CrankAddictsRich
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by CrankAddictsRich

Hey all... I'm thinking about putting together a gravel bike to use for some occasional gravel rides/winter rides etc.... frame will be an aluminum Diverge and I'm trying to keep the budget rather tight. I was initially looking at the new 105 hydro groupset, but then I realized that for roughly the same amount of money I can get a mechanical Ultegra groupset with some TRP Spyre SLC mechanical brakes. I think hydro brakes are probably the better choice, but I can get a pretty decent amount of weight by going to Ultegra mechanical and I've heard that the Spyre's do a really good job at braking for mechanical brakes..... so I wonder if the difference between the two in terms of braking performance isn't really that great. I also prefer the shape of the hoods for the Ultegra.

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prebsy
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by prebsy

really depends on what you want to do. If it's really just light gravel and crappy weather road riding go mech + spyres, compressionless housing and careful setup. If you think you'll venture on to chunky stuff or some possible single track the hydro will make a difference.

by Weenie


jfranci3
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by jfranci3

I wouldn't sweat 105 v Ultegra in this application. If you're doing it right, you'll have skid marks on the brake levers and crank arms pretty quickly. The RS505 hoods might be a lot better than the standard hoods in this application.

Cable braking is the same for the most part. Hydro gives you one finger braking and better lockup control, which you largely don't need here. The biggest thing about hydraulics are the grit tolerance,self centering pads, and self-adjustment. Braking is the same. If you're running 1 wheelset not in fine sand, don't mind adjusting the calipers occasionally, cables work fine. I'd put an in-line adjuster within reach.

Are you using a post or flat mount frame? Make sure you buy the right calipers and adjusters. Buy the 160mm adapter from the same company you buy the caliper from.

Point
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by Point

When're you buying? There's the GRX new Shimano gravel groupset coming soon (est. July mechanical, Aug(?)Di2) which may be of interest? I'll be looking into it more around release.

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nickf
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by nickf

I'm running 2x 10 SRAM red, jagwire compressionless housing, trp spyre calipers with absolutely no issues. PLENTY of braking power and "modulation". I vote mechanical and spyres myself for weight and simplicity. Dunno these gravel specific groups don't seem necessary.

CrankAddictsRich
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by CrankAddictsRich

jfranci3 wrote:
Thu May 09, 2019 8:08 pm
I wouldn't sweat 105 v Ultegra in this application. If you're doing it right, you'll have skid marks on the brake levers and crank arms pretty quickly. The RS505 hoods might be a lot better than the standard hoods in this application.
Definitely not doing RS505 shifters... those are about the ugliest cycling part I've ever seen and I've yet to hear anyone describe thier function as adequate.
jfranci3 wrote:
Thu May 09, 2019 8:08 pm
Cable braking is the same for the most part. Hydro gives you one finger braking and better lockup control, which you largely don't need here. The biggest thing about hydraulics are the grit tolerance,self centering pads, and self-adjustment. Braking is the same. If you're running 1 wheelset not in fine sand, don't mind adjusting the calipers occasionally, cables work fine. I'd put an in-line adjuster within reach.

Are you using a post or flat mount frame? Make sure you buy the right calipers and adjusters. Buy the 160mm adapter from the same company you buy the caliper from.
frame is flat mount.
Point wrote:
Thu May 09, 2019 10:25 pm
When're you buying? There's the GRX new Shimano gravel groupset coming soon (est. July mechanical, Aug(?)Di2) which may be of interest? I'll be looking into it more around release.
Yes, I've seen the GRX release articles... It is interesting for sure, but I'm sure it will probably be $$$. Reading up, I'm not sure I'll need the advanatges it offers... The gear ratios I'm looking at are offered in standard road stuff and I don't plan on wide enough tires that the front chainring clearance upgardes will be beneficial.

by Weenie


gorkypl
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by gorkypl

All depends where are you planning to ride.
In extremely remote locations mechanical brakes might have some advantatge. Or if you are riding mostly flat ground without bags attached to your bike - like in light gravel and winter cycling. Then yes, mechanicals will be sufficient.
But in any other situation I see no reason not to go hydro. The difference in stopping power and the effort needed to apply the brakes is really noticeable.

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