Cannondale TOPSTONE 2019 is released

Especially for light weight issues concerning cyclocross / touring bikes & parts.

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TonyM
Posts: 3218
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

I think that all 1100 and 1400 come with the 36T as standard.
All other with 18T.

frogtape777
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 9:35 pm

by frogtape777

DJT21 wrote:
Wed Jun 26, 2019 10:37 pm
36T star ratchets are a pointless upgrade for road riding.

You can pull the end of the hub off with your hands.
I miss the buzz on 18t though, i'd do it purely for that for roadwheel set :D

by Weenie


frogtape777
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 9:35 pm

by frogtape777

TonyM wrote:
Thu Jun 27, 2019 5:30 am
I think that all 1100 and 1400 come with the 36T as standard.
All other with 18T.
Wow they certainly aint cheap though :shock:

https://www.bike-components.de/en/DT-Sw ... el-p67552/

frogtape777
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 9:35 pm

by frogtape777

Maiden voyage on the PR1600 Dicuts with GP5000 28s, absolutely flying, incredible acceleration, zero resistance whatsoever, and just pulled up hills, really felt effortless, and post ride legs were fresh.

Ultegra ice tech rotors bedded in quick, and felt much much more powerful than the stock. So a gravel wheels are getting same rotors.



Ended up needing the front capiler adjusting which took seconds, but back was straight swap over.

Just need to decide on the DT Swiss gravel wheelset now.

43 PRs with mostly gold on Strava :D




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TheKaiser
Posts: 636
Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:29 pm

by TheKaiser

36T probably aren't standard for a few reasons:
1. The 18T was their original configuration, so it's kind of the default.
2. Not everyone likes loud and/or high pitched freehubs, either for personal auditory reasons, or because I have heard of some road racers who prefer not to advertise to their competitors how little work they are doing when drafting.
3. 36T will theoretically have more drag when coasting, so you pay for the rapid engagement when starting to pedal with a little extra slowing effect when you coast. Once you are pedaling and the freehub engages, it makes no difference either way, so the performance advantage isn't really there for road riding, it only may be of benefit on a MTB where you are on and off the pedals frequently and perhaps even doing some 1/2 pedal stroke ratcheting up technical terrain. MTBs also have smaller chainrings which exacerbates the delay in engagement from any given freehub.
4. Higher tooth counts have smaller teeth, which makes them more fragile. I have heard of a number of people who stripped the teeth off 54T star ratchets, and even a few who stripped the 36T including a 140lb woman who rides for my LBS. I have the 54T on my MTB, which I bought 2nd hand, and it got a lot of high torque high bodyweight use from it's previous owner, yet it is still going strong, so YMMV. That might be the reference you saw to "maintenance" in that if you let the ratchets get gummed up, so they don't engage quickly enough, then you may end up with the teeth only partially engaging under pedal force, which is, in my experience, what often kills freehubs. Similarly, "maintenance" may have referred to ensuring that your hub is tightly affixed to the frame (which you should do anyway), as having insufficient compression coming from the axle might be more likely to allow the star ratchets to end up in that partial or uneven engagement situation
5. Maybe DT wants to make a little extra money selling the higher tooth count upgrades to people who really want them.
frogtape777 wrote:
Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:25 pm

Thanks for the reply Tony, this is how I like my hubs, loud and angry, and waspish! I wonder why they don't ship 36T as standard!

frogtape777
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 9:35 pm

by frogtape777

Thanks for all the information, lot more to it than you'd initially think!

wheelie
Posts: 115
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 4:45 pm
Location: Latvia, Riga

by wheelie

Hi all! Any reccomendations about the size? I am 183, will "L" be fine? Currently riding 56 cm Cervelo S3, 55 cm Bianchi Zurigo

AlexC
Posts: 19
Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:24 pm

by AlexC

I’m also 183cm and ride a 56cm road bike, but I went with a Medium Topstone because the stack and reach numbers were much closer to my road bike setup.

I use the bike for commuting, winter road riding, and of course lots of gravel riding, and after 5,000+km, I’m very happy with my choice.

The Large Topstone has way too much stack for my taste and would’ve prevented me from achieving my ideal saddle to bar drop even with a -17° stem. But note that I’m coming from a road racing background and am accustomed to 9cm of saddle to bar drop, though I’m only running 7cm of drop on my Topstone.

The medium Topstone stack and reach numbers are almost identical to your 56cm Cervelo S3, so if you’re happy with your Cervelo’s geometry (and not using a ton of spacers under the stem) I’d go for a medium.

If you can, go test ride one first.


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cardboardBox
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 9:36 am

by cardboardBox

Hi!
Topstone Sora owner here and I am also 183cm. With almost no road bike (drop bar bike) background, I was really struggling with Topstone frame sizes. First, I was like 99% certain it would be "L" for me but ended with size "M" and not regretting my decision. I noticed that "L" was slower to steer and the reach was too long because I had to stretch too much and that really makes my back hurt.
"M" is equivalent of 56cm and "L" 58cm. Canyon also states that their Grail "M" is ideal for 178-184cm riders and the bike shares exact same stack and reach+stem length with Topstone.

The only thing with "M" is suspicious that I had to raise seatpost almost its maximum just 1-2cm left to minimum insertion line. I've also changed stem from 100mm -> 90mm. My only real complains about bike is that saddle which came with Sora version because it's not good for over 3hrs trips (>65km) and mechanical promax brakes feels more like rim brakes than disc brakes

Shrike
Posts: 1603
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:08 pm

by Shrike

Think my pads are done but hard to know exactly when you should change or just adjust them so the pads sit closer. I tried adjusting the pads but the adjustment seems jammed. You guys know which pads fit these exactly, and if I can use other pads that might be considered an upgrade? I’ve got Ultegra rotors on the original Sora/Promax groupset.

wheelie
Posts: 115
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 4:45 pm
Location: Latvia, Riga

by wheelie

Thanks AlexC and cardboardBox for advice, tried in real life and ordered size M (2019) :beerchug:

Ulver
Posts: 76
Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 11:55 pm

by Ulver

I've had the Sora model for about 3 weeks - serving me well for mixed surface rides and the so comfy for riding all day on. Does feel slow coming from a Basso Diamante though..

I've got a new wheelset coming and some Rene Herse 700x35s. I'll keep the original heavy wheelset with the WTBs for off road..

My question is, if I get 140mm discs for the new wheelset, do I leave the adaptors on or can they come off?

frogtape777
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 9:35 pm

by frogtape777

frogtape777 wrote:
Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:39 am
tomh79 wrote:
Fri Jun 07, 2019 1:00 pm
You mean the crank that came with the Topstone 105? It's a FSA Omega Mega Exo - weight 871 g (50/34) - so 46/30 - a few grams less...

Thats the one cheers

So.... the Easton looks amazing on the list, and maintains that lovely 46/30, at around 0.6 lbs saving / 282 grams :

Easton EC90 SL 588g
RX810 1×11: 655g
RX600 1×11: 753g
RX810 2×11: 722g
RX600 2×11: 816g
RX600 2×10: 819g
FSA Omega Mega Exo - weight 871 g (50/34)

Tom did you ever upgrade your crankset? I'm trying to fit a power meter, and like stages, but 105 are rubbish cog sizes, and the GRX which I like don't do a power meter, so revisiting what other options I have.

frogtape777
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 9:35 pm

by frogtape777

tomh79 wrote:
Sun Jun 23, 2019 6:27 pm
frogtape777 wrote:
Sun Jun 23, 2019 4:06 pm

352 grams! 25mm setback.
Thanks!!! Btw, I ended up with these (perfect for me)

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/whe ... -dicut-25/

I've got the CR1600 dicuts now, and fitted the Gravelking SK 38, tubeless in less than a minute :D


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tomh79
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2018 9:50 pm

by tomh79

frogtape777 wrote:
Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:39 am
Tom did you ever upgrade your crankset? I'm trying to fit a power meter, and like stages, but 105 are rubbish cog sizes, and the GRX which I like don't do a power meter, so revisiting what other options I have.
Nice CR 1600s :) How do you like em so far? Love mine with the GK 35mm!

Cranks - still didn't buy anything :(

My current options (FSA SL-K modular is out because of 43.5mm chainline, I'm not interested in ROTOR)

-Easton EC90 SL (super light, expensive)
-Easton EA90 SL (700g, cheaper but still not that cheap - good options, easy convertable to 1x)
-GRX 48/31 (700g) - cheapest option. No reviews yet. Wondering how that 48/31 shifts. Have to buy new fron derailleur (but all in all still cheaper than above options).

Hope I can decide soon...if I had the $$$ - would buy EC90SL straight away. Seems to be the lightest and best option. Not sure if I would buy 46/30 or 47/32.

by Weenie


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