Ultegra RX road clutch RD for 2x11 and 2x10
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Very nice. It looks very similar to the XT M8050 rear derailleur.
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I have just removed my Dura-Ace 9100 RD and installed the RX-800 to eliminate chain slap.
The shifting is not quite as crisp as the DA, but as good as the Ultegra 6800 SS on my road bike. I can live with that, plus, I have an 11-34 going onto the off-road wheels for lower gearing. Fun times!
The shifting is not quite as crisp as the DA, but as good as the Ultegra 6800 SS on my road bike. I can live with that, plus, I have an 11-34 going onto the off-road wheels for lower gearing. Fun times!
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I recently set up an RX805 DI2 rear derailleur with a 34/50 crankset and an 11-40 cassette.
It shifted great with clutch off- But with clutch on, it lagged adn did not want to climb the cogset.
I discovered that it worked better with the cluth tension dialed down- near bottom of recommended range. 3nm.
It shifted great with clutch off- But with clutch on, it lagged adn did not want to climb the cogset.
I discovered that it worked better with the cluth tension dialed down- near bottom of recommended range. 3nm.
Another thing that I noticed is that the clutch derailleur is more sensitive to battery life.
I was adjusting with a low battery and it stopped working while the clutch was engaged- Charged it back up and all is well.
Seemed like it used up the battery more quikcly but I may have not truly had a full charge (new bike)- I have charged it fully now and I will watch it.
I was adjusting with a low battery and it stopped working while the clutch was engaged- Charged it back up and all is well.
Seemed like it used up the battery more quikcly but I may have not truly had a full charge (new bike)- I have charged it fully now and I will watch it.
boots2000 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 12, 2018 5:19 pmI recently set up an RX805 DI2 rear derailleur with a 34/50 crankset and an 11-40 cassette.
It shifted great with clutch off- But with clutch on, it lagged adn did not want to climb the cogset.
I discovered that it worked better with the cluth tension dialed down- near bottom of recommended range. 3nm.
that switch is fully mechanical... so I have my doubts in that thoeryboots2000 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:37 pmAnother thing that I noticed is that the clutch derailleur is more sensitive to battery life.
I was adjusting with a low battery and it stopped working while the clutch was engaged- Charged it back up and all is well.
Seemed like it used up the battery more quikcly but I may have not truly had a full charge (new bike)- I have charged it fully now and I will watch it.
boots2000 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 12, 2018 5:19 pmI recently set up an RX805 DI2 rear derailleur with a 34/50 crankset and an 11-40 cassette.
It shifted great with clutch off- But with clutch on, it lagged adn did not want to climb the cogset.
I discovered that it worked better with the cluth tension dialed down- near bottom of recommended range. 3nm.
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I finished my setup with a 50/34 crank and a RX805 with 11-40t cassette. In the end I did need the RoadLink DM to get good shifting performance. If you *don't* have a RoadLink you will need a longer b-screw.
EDIT: I had an every so slightly bent hanger causing issues that the RoadLink mitigated. With a new hanger even the original hanger works great.
EDIT: I had an every so slightly bent hanger causing issues that the RoadLink mitigated. With a new hanger even the original hanger works great.
Last edited by j0dan on Fri Nov 16, 2018 5:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I know But the motor has to work harder to overocme the clutch.
spdntrxi wrote: ↑Fri Oct 19, 2018 3:28 amthat switch is fully mechanical... so I have my doubts in that thoeryboots2000 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:37 pmAnother thing that I noticed is that the clutch derailleur is more sensitive to battery life.
I was adjusting with a low battery and it stopped working while the clutch was engaged- Charged it back up and all is well.
Seemed like it used up the battery more quikcly but I may have not truly had a full charge (new bike)- I have charged it fully now and I will watch it.
boots2000 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 12, 2018 5:19 pmI recently set up an RX805 DI2 rear derailleur with a 34/50 crankset and an 11-40 cassette.
It shifted great with clutch off- But with clutch on, it lagged adn did not want to climb the cogset.
I discovered that it worked better with the cluth tension dialed down- near bottom of recommended range. 3nm.
Do you have the GS or the regular version? With the GS you shouldn’t need the RoadLink.j0dan wrote:I finished my setup with a 50/34 crank and a RX805 with 11-40t cassette. In the end I did need the RoadLink DM to get good shifting performance. If you *don't* have a RoadLink you will need a longer b-screw.
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You're right. I had a bent derailleur hanger causing my problems and they appeared to go away with the RoadLink.pdlpsher1 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:54 amDo you have the GS or the regular version? With the GS you shouldn’t need the RoadLink.j0dan wrote:I finished my setup with a 50/34 crank and a RX805 with 11-40t cassette. In the end I did need the RoadLink DM to get good shifting performance. If you *don't* have a RoadLink you will need a longer b-screw.
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haven't seen it mentioned yet, but I am curious on the derailleur housing. I've seen in the past the new non-clutched shadow road derailleurs sometimes require a stiffer cable housing to work properly. I am looking into getting this RD for my CX bike (2019 trek crockett) , but it runs full length housing. Will regular housing work fine with the clutched RD?
You should be fine. The separate piece of housing that is included with the newer rear derailleurs is very flexible (not stiffer as you mention above) and the steel is wound like a brake housing cable versus a standard derailleur cable housing. This makes it easier to route a short tight radius bend from the end of the chainstay exit port to the attachment point on the rear derailleur. But with your Crocket, the housing runs along and outside of the chainstay so you should be able to get a nice easy loop all the way to the derailleur. In other words, you’ll be fine. With a larger loop, you don’t want the derailleur housing to be too flexible back there or it would be flopping all around which is not what you want next to the rotating sprockets, chain and spokes.
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Hi I'm new here. So I don't know wether I should start a new thread or not. Sorry if this is OT
So I have a 2018 Caadx Tiagra and after reading this thread I started wondering about buying a RX800 derailleur to use with the 4700 shifters and a 10sp cassette. Can anyone actually confirm that this will work?
I have searched around different forums quite a bit and am starting to get confused.
Also I have a FD-CX70 front mech and I am wondering if that will mate with the 4700 brifters?
So I have a 2018 Caadx Tiagra and after reading this thread I started wondering about buying a RX800 derailleur to use with the 4700 shifters and a 10sp cassette. Can anyone actually confirm that this will work?
I have searched around different forums quite a bit and am starting to get confused.
Also I have a FD-CX70 front mech and I am wondering if that will mate with the 4700 brifters?
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Thanks ooo. I will get the RD then as I will want to touring on gravel and a bit of single track next summer.
Btw found another thread about the CX-70. Apparently it comes on the Cannondale Slate paired with 11sp brifters.
Btw found another thread about the CX-70. Apparently it comes on the Cannondale Slate paired with 11sp brifters.
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