How is chainsuck possible with 1x10?

[Multebear]

I recently switched from 2x10 to 1x10, because I experienced chainsuck when riding on the inner ring in muddy conditions. I’ve done a couple rides with 1x10 and everything worked out very well. This weekend I rode in muddy conditions and experienced chainsuck again. Both chain, chainring are brand new. Is there a solution to this problem? I rode with a couple others who didn’t have problems. Several riders with both 1x and 2x setups.

[Calnago]

I don’t think running one ring or two will really affect chainsuck one way or another. For some reason your chain seems to be having a bit of difficulty releasing from the ring as it makes its way round. Because it’s happening on two different setups (both your 1x and 2x) I’m inclined to think it’s related somehow to the chain/ring combo you are using. Or maybe just the chain. Maybe you could even try a different lube. Or maybe it’s just plain bad luck.
When I built up my brand new C50 years ago with a brand new Campy crank, it experienced chainsuck on what seemed a way too regular basis. Couldn’t figure it out. So I took a marker along and whenever I would recognize it about to happen I would stop and try to freeze where the crank was. I’d mark a spot on the ring where it seemed to be incurring. After a few marks, I took off the crank, cleaned it up, and really examined the offending area. Sure enough, there was a small sharp burr on one of the teeth that was making it harder for the chain to release at that point. A couple of light file strokes and all was good.
Really hard to say what’s causing the chainsuck in your case over the Internet, but I just thought my situation might be of help in your quest to figure out what’s going on with yours, by at least giving you some ideas of things to check out.

[Multebear]

Hmm... I forgot to mention, that the cassette also was changed with chain and chainring. So basicly it’s a new drivetrain except for the pulleys.

I was thinking that maybe my cleaning after each ride is too thourough and relubing is too dry. ? Or maybe as you mention different lube.

[Calnago]

Well, a new drive train may have some teeth that aren’t quite as “finished” as they should be on the chainring. Cassette wouldn’t have anything to do with it. I think you’re on the right track to getting it resolved now however.

[mattr]

FWIW some frames actually make the chainsuck more noticeable, the shape and clearance to the chain stay makes it more (or less) likely that chainsuck will result in a jammed chain/noise/nothing.

[silvalis]

It's probably mud on the inside of the chain clogging the NW chainring. I've seen brand new 1x11s do it probably because they were on the edge of the tolerance.

[wheelsONfire]

Possibly, chain got caught on the chainring tooths and didn'r release.
When the chain is stuck on the chainring tooth(s) and it goes furher than 6 o'clock and goes up over 8-9 o'clock.
That is what i have seen on my own bike when it happens (2*11).
Chainline shouldn't be a problem on a 1*11 bike, so it surely seems it's like i suggested above.
I solved my problem by using a wider chainline crankset.
In your case, maybe the chainring tooths are thicker so the chain goes on to tight on the tooths.
Just an idea....

[LeDuke]

As I didn't see it mentioned in the OP or any Multebear's responses:

Are you running a narrow-wide chainring?

Are you running a clutch RD?

Only time I've ever dropped a chain on a NW-clutch combo was during a pretty spectacular crash. It just doesn't happen otherwise, IME.

[MikeD]

Here's a pretty good article on chainsuck http://fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/

[Multebear]

As I didn't see it mentioned in the OP or any Multebear's responses:

Are you running a narrow-wide chainring?

Are you running a clutch RD?

Only time I've ever dropped a chain on a NW-clutch combo was during a pretty spectacular crash. It just doesn't happen otherwise, IME.

Narrow wide chainring and no clutch.

[ooo]

by chain suck you mean chain drop or something else?

1) Short cage and good spring tension in RD improve stability
2) correct chain length is important (if you use same chain with different chainrings some - some combinations will not work properly)
3) if something in transmission is outside of official specs - try to make it less offspec (use the same chain brand as cassette, etc)
4) change chainline (if your front chainring have less cogs then your biggest rear cog - try smaller CL)
5) when you run with bike - always put bike gently on the ground (this is important even with clutch)

[Multebear]

by chain suck you mean chain drop or something else?

1) Short cage and good spring tension in RD improve stability
2) correct chain length is important (if you use same chain with different chainrings some - some combinations will not work properly)
3) if something in transmission is outside of official specs - try to make it less offspec (use the same chain brand as cassette, etc)
4) change chainline (if your front chainring have less cogs then your biggest rear cog - try smaller CL)
5) when you run with bike - always put bike gently on the ground (this is important even with clutch)

Actually both. I've dropped the chain a couple times, and I've had the chain failing to release the chainring. But I with a chaincathcher I hope to solve the dropped chain issue. But I don't know how to solve the suck issue. I'll go through the answers here, and that linked article and see if there's a solution. Am also considering that XT RD with clutch.