Cannondale SuperX power meter, spider, and chainring options
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It can be done with a power meter!
Look at this video:
https://youtu.be/gCCaTU5ldpo
Almost my dream setup. Only a lefty up front is missing.
Look at this video:
https://youtu.be/gCCaTU5ldpo
Almost my dream setup. Only a lefty up front is missing.
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Any particular reason why you need the lowest Q factor possible? I’m running a sram red crankset on my super x with a race face 134mm spindle installed in it, and while yes it does widen the Q factor quite a bit it’s hardly noticeable..and my cleats are not positioned to the inside on my shoeCattiy wrote: ↑Mon May 14, 2018 4:04 pmI want to come back to this and need some clarification.As I understand it, every way I end up with a wider q-factor than standard road cranks? The 155 mm q- factor of the the new SuperX is a deal breaker for me!grover wrote: ↑Wed Oct 04, 2017 10:35 amFor what it's worth, I just use a stock Quarq BB30 110BCD crankset with SRAM CX1 chainring.
Remove the 5mm spacer and threaded preload ring from the non-drive side of the spindle. Install a 2.5mm spacer and a wavy washer. Slide through bottom bracket/frame. Install stock 13.5mm spacer on driveside and driveside arm as you would any other frame. By using the stock driveside spacer you end up with the 5mm wider Ai chainline simple because the bottom bracket shell is wider.
Yes the crankset is not centred in the frame and the non-driveside crankarm is very close to the chainstays. But it works. I don't notice it when riding. If you wanted to be particular you could put your cleats to the outside on one shoe and the inside on the other shoe. Or use pedals with adjustable spindle lengths such as speedplay.
If you wanted to get it centred you could buy a longer BB30 spindle from Cannondale/RaceFace/Stages (SRAM don't sell them) and install. You'd need 128mm spindle to get it perfect (stock spindle in SRAM road crank is 118mm). Yes the non-driveside bolt says do not disassemble, but that's never stopped anyone. Just put the stock spindle back in before you ever send it off for warranty
You can also install a stock SRAM GXP crankset using the Wheels Manufacturing Universal BB30/PF30 to GXP adaptor (not the BB30A specific one - it's designed for BB30A73 on road bikes not BB30A83 on CX/MTB). You can probably also install a normal SHimano road crankset with the Wheels Manf Universal BB30/PF30 to Shimano adaptor but I've not tried it. Again, the cranksets will not be centred in the frame.
I need the lowest q-factor possible.
Hi,
did I read it right that if I want to use a p2m with the Cannondale Hollowgram SI crankset, 1x40T at the front, that I need to buy the longer spindle (125mm)? In the photos where rings were touching it looked like it was a 2x setup.
did I read it right that if I want to use a p2m with the Cannondale Hollowgram SI crankset, 1x40T at the front, that I need to buy the longer spindle (125mm)? In the photos where rings were touching it looked like it was a 2x setup.
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No longer in the industry
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It's not the chainrings that touches the frame its the powermeter itself that is very close to the frame. But talked to a guy last weekend when racing and he had the NGeco mounted on the superx with original spindle it was still close but not that close as the typeS.
Thanks Hoven, that's very useful.
Out of curiosity - if you use an NG Eco: do you put the chain ring on the outer side (big chain ring position) or on the inner? Which chain rings would one use in this case?
Sorry, I'm a bit of a 1x newbie.
Out of curiosity - if you use an NG Eco: do you put the chain ring on the outer side (big chain ring position) or on the inner? Which chain rings would one use in this case?
Sorry, I'm a bit of a 1x newbie.
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How about a powertap hub laced into the rear wheel?
Here’s my set up:
Stock SI crank
40t Wolf tooth mounted on the outside of a P2M NG
Here’s the gap between the P2M and chainstay
Here’s the NDS crank FWIW:
Everything turns nicely and I have ridden it in some crap conditions
Stock SI crank
40t Wolf tooth mounted on the outside of a P2M NG
Here’s the gap between the P2M and chainstay
Here’s the NDS crank FWIW:
Everything turns nicely and I have ridden it in some crap conditions
Age and treachery shall overcome youth and skill
Since this is the first thread that came up when I searched for this, I'm going to revive it.
SRM on 119mm spindle doesn't work, it touches the shell.
Quarq Dzero with 2mm spacer NDS works with good spider clearance and maintains road Q factor.
SRM on 119mm spindle doesn't work, it touches the shell.
Quarq Dzero with 2mm spacer NDS works with good spider clearance and maintains road Q factor.
Yeah, the only problem with that (depending on rider) is that the standard axle is +10mm greater q factor than road cranks. For some that's meaningful, for others they won't notice it. I injured my ITB by going too narrow so I'm hesitant to make a change with anything concerning Q factor and deviate from what has kept me injury free since then.
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