NINER BSB RDO v1 build (Images re-linked)

Especially for light weight issues concerning cyclocross / touring bikes & parts.

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motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

Well nearly completed the build once i'd sorted the Di2 routing and the SWorks cranks with direct mount chainring, but hit a snag with the brakes.
Am reusing parts of my I-play 105D, and although the Niner is a smaller frame the rear brake hose is too short, so have had to order a new one, and then realised that the Niner is designed for 140mm discs and mine are 160mm , so a search for some spacers turned up a great deal on Planet X £3 per brake with Ti bolts. just have to wait for the postie now.

full build is/will be.

Niner BSB RDO v1 frameset 50cm,
FSA PF 30 bottom bracket with Ceramic bearings,
Specialized S works cranks with modified direct mount Absolute Black 42 tooth oval narrow wide chainring,
XT SPD pedals,
KMC 11X sl chain
XT Di2 rear mech Mid GS cage,
Sunrace MX8 11 speed 11-40 cassette,
One piece wiring loom weighing 14grams
internal seatpost battery
Seatpost Omega EVO carbon
Saddle Rotor 3D
headset Niner with Acros top bearing/preload cap to allow Di2 junction A to be mounted inside the steerer
Stem Rotor 100mm
Headset Spacers Niner
Bars Hylix Carbon short shallow
Tape Zipp Service Course CX

Shifters Sram Rival Hydro, gutted shifters operating switches linked to electronics from a SW600R climbing shifter,
RH upshift, LH downshift.

Brakes Formula R1 disc brake callipers
Rotors Avid HFX 160 front, 160 rear
Ashima spacers with Ti bolts

Wheel Fr American Classic Disc 32 hole hub,
WTB i19 team issue 29er disc rim de-badged
DT swiss revolution spokes
Araya brass spoke nipples
Maxle stealth front skewer
Schwalbe Racing ralph tyre setup tubeless

Wheel Rr American Classic Disc 32 hole hub,
WTB i19 team issue 29er disc rim de-badged
DT swiss revolution spokes
Araya brass spoke nipples
10mm DT swiss RWS skewer
Schwalbe Racing ralph tyre setup tubeless,

pics and weight once its finished.
Last edited by motorapido on Sat Aug 05, 2017 10:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.

motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

A couple of quick pics, brakes and Di2 wires still to be sorted,

ImageIMG_5009 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

ImageIMG_5010 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
Last edited by motorapido on Sat Aug 05, 2017 10:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

by Weenie


Exar
Posts: 346
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 10:28 pm
Location: The Netherlands
Contact:

by Exar

How does it compare to your Iplay frameset?
Chains to the right!

AdyM
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 4:12 am

by AdyM

Interested to see a weight on this when you have one, looking great!

motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

Exar, haven't had a chance for a decent ride on it yet to comment on the ride, but generally the frame is built with a lot more finesse than the I-play, less chunky around the chainstays and brake mounts and generally more sculpted lines than the I-play, weight wise isn't a fair comparison as they are different sizes. Will comment more once i've got some miles in and dial the fit in.

Overall the weight is reasonable at 7.7kg, given the rear mech and cassette weights, plenty of room to drop weight from the wheel-set if i went carbon rims and tubs. A more expensive cassette with an XD drive and XD free hub would drop up to 0.2kg on its own.

(an update) slightly disappointed in the weight so i have ordered an XD driver (one advantage of the American Classic hubs) and SRAM X01 XG 1195 cassette which should drop the weight below 7.5kg and expand the gear range slightly, 10-42

works out at about £1 per gram weight loss, so not a bad cost to weight saving ratio.

clynch
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2017 4:59 am

by clynch

I have a 2015 BSB RDO and it will take 160 rotors with spacers I believe. You might not need the 140s.

motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

Yepp thanks realised that, ended up going with some Ashima adaptors as they are light and pretty cheap, The Avid ones i tried didn't seem to sit the calliper flat against the mount.

Weathers dull and sleety so no pics yet.

motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

Pics at last, to run the X01 11-42 cassette i've had to swap the top link of the rear mech to a Llindaretts one, and it shifts fine. weight is now 7.49kg

ImageIMG_5036 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

ImageIMG_5037 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

ImageIMG_5038 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

ImageIMG_5039 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

ImageIMG_5043 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

hidden Di2 junction in the steerer and cables hidden on underside of the stem,then run up to the top of the stem, done by running a small radial slot in the stem where it clamps the steerer, all nicely blended to avoid stress raisers. the white cables are the headphone cable that run from the momentary switches (activated by the Sram shift levers), to the climbing module inside the steerer along with the junction A.

ImageIMG_4949 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_4943 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_5040 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_5041 by Paul Townsend, on FlickrImageIMG_5042 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
Last edited by motorapido on Sat Aug 05, 2017 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

mattyNor
Posts: 276
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:18 pm

by mattyNor

Wow great idea with the di2 routing!

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

Made some updates / upgrades, new inline carbon post and one piece bar stem combo, thats a copy of the Canyon H11. I have the same bars on my road bike and the shape and length of the straight portion of the drops seems to suit me.

ImageIMG_5199 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

Had to get creative again to fit the bar/stem as its for 1 1/4" steerer, so a custom split sleeve in aluminium does the job.

Garmin mount is as on my road bike 3mm thick CF sheet bonded withdoulbe sided tape and screwed to the underside of the bars using the existing mounting holes for the cable cover plates.

I also needed a light mount as the rubber strap on the lezyne didn't fit the bars well, so i've changed from the rubber strap to the bracket mount on the light. Then used the helmet style clip in mount with a Ti bolt and some Ti Pad alignment washers off of some Vee brakes that i had lying around, have given me a weenie adjustable mount.

ImageIMG_5201 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_5200 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_5202 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_5203 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_5204 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

User avatar
Miller
Posts: 1248
Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

Some impressive details on this.
How do you feel about the external routing of the rear brake hose?

motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

Thanks,

The standard rear brake routing is under the bottom bracket and along the bottom of the chainstay but the hose never seemed to sit right and it seems to me to be more exposed to the risk of damge. Hence my alternate routing over the top of the bottom bracket and along the top of the chainstay. The stick on hose clips work pretty well, but a wrap of tape keeps everthing snug and although its not the prettiest solution, at least its light and easy to redo if needed.

Jowwy
Posts: 55
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2016 6:47 pm

by Jowwy

motorapido wrote:
Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:21 pm
Thanks,

The standard rear brake routing is under the bottom bracket and along the bottom of the chainstay but the hose never seemed to sit right and it seems to me to be more exposed to the risk of damge. Hence my alternate routing over the top of the bottom bracket and along the top of the chainstay. The stick on hose clips work pretty well, but a wrap of tape keeps everthing snug and although its not the prettiest solution, at least its light and easy to redo if needed.
i'm curious as to why you needed to use the linderettes adaptor, isn't the xt di2 derrauiler usable upto 46t cassette.............i mean on my cube i sue the same rear di2 mech and it hits the 42t no problem at all

motorapido
Posts: 258
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

The derailleur hanger on the frame can influence the shift quality and position of the mech pivot relative to the axle centre. I had no issues with the original Sunrace 11-40, but changing to the Sram XD 10-42 meant it tended to hangup when shifting between 42 and next cog down on up shifts and was clunky on down shifts. playing with the B tension didn't solve anything and as i allready had it, it was worth a shot to see if it improved the shift response.
The Llindaretts 11 link solved all the slow-shifts and issues i had.

by Weenie


Bhaalgorn
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 2:10 pm

by Bhaalgorn

I'm very curious to learn how you accomplished fitting the Di2 junction into the steerer tube. Did you think this up yourself or follow instructions elsewhere? What topcap is that? You said Acros, but I couldn't find it online. It also looks like you glued the junction box to the step cap, but how does the preload bolt work then?

Also, it makes me cry a little seeing aero bars on a BSB. :)

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