Downgrading to mechanical discs, what should I go with?

[nickf]

I'm around 79kg. Running sram red 10 speed mechanical, jagwire compressionless, spye c calipers, stock trp pads, ashima 140mm rotors front/rear. PLENTY of power with normal lever pull. I'm not sure what all the complaints are about. I personally didn't want hydraulic. Don't like the shape of the hoods, plus I wanted a system that's easy to service no matter where I'm riding. I have the pads set pretty close to the rotors to minimize the lever pull, no rubbing even when out of the saddle. With hydraulic you are kinda stuck with the lever pull. For me the hydraulic pull feels way to long.

[Mr.Gib]

Will the Juin Tech work well with Sram short pull? Seems my only option to recycle Etap for a cross/gravel build.
For the use intended -dirt road-off road all weather routes and cross training, but not racing- I'm in the middle of top performance and a commuter bike, but definitely I want the brakes to bite whenever I need it.
Otherwise I should better plan to trade my current etap levers (difficult to sell all alone) and search for a pair of HRD's.

Enviado desde mi SM-J530F mediante Tapatalk

I use Sram levers with Juin Tech. Works great. Plenty of stoppin power.

[Phuddy]

I changed from TRP Spyres to Juin Tech X1s this year and I couldn't be happier. I'm running SRAM Rival levers and the TRPs just didn't feel right, even after dialing in the pads perfectly(which is a massive pain in the ass on the inside rear pad) the levers needed too much pull. The X1s feel fantastic and the quality seems excellent; I don't feel like I need to make the much more expensive brifter/brake upgrade anymore.

[CiclistaTifoso]

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I've had Spyre SLC (the version with carbon-actuated arms) installed on my Emonda SLR to keep cable brake Ultegra shifters, with a plan to eventually upgrade to Hydro levers/brakes, but they've been working great. Haven't had to make any adjustments, had them for more than a year now. IF set up properly they can be a great option. I'm sure the Juin Techs are good options too.

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[dlj2119]

I changed from TRP Spyres to Juin Tech X1s this year and I couldn't be happier. I'm running SRAM Rival levers and the TRPs just didn't feel right, even after dialing in the pads perfectly(which is a massive pain in the ass on the inside rear pad) the levers needed too much pull. The X1s feel fantastic and the quality seems excellent; I don't feel like I need to make the much more expensive brifter/brake upgrade anymore.

I installed a pair of Juin Techs recently and the opening between the brake pads for the front and the back is soooo narrow that I cant get the disc to run without rubbing. The pistons are somewhat deployed. Disappointed that these are fresh out of the box. What have been people's experience servicing them/replacing the oil?

[jemima]

I changed from TRP Spyres to Juin Tech X1s this year and I couldn't be happier. I'm running SRAM Rival levers and the TRPs just didn't feel right, even after dialing in the pads perfectly(which is a massive pain in the ass on the inside rear pad) the levers needed too much pull. The X1s feel fantastic and the quality seems excellent; I don't feel like I need to make the much more expensive brifter/brake upgrade anymore.

I installed a pair of Juin Techs recently and the opening between the brake pads for the front and the back is soooo narrow that I cant get the disc to run without rubbing. The pistons are somewhat deployed. Disappointed that these are fresh out of the box. What have been people's experience servicing them/replacing the oil?

Don't know if this is revelant in your case but I did at one point notice the pads tended to sit so the lower edge was slightly skewed inward and thus touching the rotor. I now bend out a little the four arms on the pad holder. This sees the pad face sit more parallel to the rotor face.

By memory Juin Tech did upgrade the piston seals on the models released after the R series. Am only guessing this resulted in the piston returning to its fully withdrawn position, away from the rotor more fluidly.

With unit broken down I will often clean around piston/seal with fluid.

I assume that out of the box you set the adjustment dial so the arm was halfway along the threaded rod? (as shown in the Juin Tech vid).

[Carcinogent]

Any experinece with the new (to my knowledge at least) Shimano BR-RS305 or even BR-M375. They seem to be redesigned and do not require 3!!! different tools for pad adjustment like their predecessors the CX77s. I plan on buiding a travel bike and mechanical discs are a huge advantage when taking apart and assembling. Not to mention that I do like the tactile 'click' as well as the shape of mechanical SRAM 22 levers.

Thanks in advance for any insights/experiences.

[joejack951]

Any experinece with the new (to my knowledge at least) Shimano BR-RS305 or even BR-M375. They seem to be redesigned and do not require 3!!! different tools for pad adjustment like their predecessors the CX77s. I plan on buiding a travel bike and mechanical discs are a huge advantage when taking apart and assembling. Not to mention that I do like the tactile 'click' as well as the shape of mechanical SRAM 22 levers.

Thanks in advance for any insights/experiences.

If those new Shimano calipers are intended to work with Shimano SLR-EV levers you will not be pleased using them with SRAM levers. The cable pull is just too different. Go with Avid BB7 for simplicity and lightweight (tool-less adjustment), Juintech for a good hybrid but that stills needs pad adjustment, or TRP HY/RD with short pull arms for fit and forget.

[froze]

I have mechanical disk brakes on my touring bike and like them a lot. The ones that came on it are TRP Spyre-C Dual piston brakes, they got very high reviews on the internet too. According to my bike shop they said that TRP rotors are a bit thicker than other companies rotors so they'll last longer and cool a tiny bit better, and won't warp as much as thinner ones. I didn't want to deal with Hydro disk brakes while out on a tour, it's more hassle and I don't want to be carrying fluid like that to bleed the system, so these mechanical ones are lot more simpler.

If your coming off of hydro disk brakes, keep in mind that the mechanical ones will feel more like high quality dual pivot rim brakes when activating the levers, but I actually like that feeling better because you can modulate the brakes better. The TRP is also compatible with Shimano Deore pad standard. Mechanical disk brakes are also a lot easier to remove a wheel, they just slide out and slide back in, no adjusting, no wedges needed to open to the pads, nothing.

https://road.cc/content/review/90569-tr ... disc-brake

I don't think you should look at it as a downgrade, but rather going to something different.

[3phase]

Would you guys recommend the TRP RRL Drop Bar Lever for with the Juin Tech or TRP Spyre brakes? I would only need brake levers as I plan to have downtube shifters installed.

[Catagory6]

I changed from TRP Spyres to Juin Tech X1s this year and I couldn't be happier. I'm running SRAM Rival levers and the TRPs just didn't feel right, even after dialing in the pads perfectly(which is a massive pain in the ass on the inside rear pad) the levers needed too much pull. The X1s feel fantastic and the quality seems excellent; I don't feel like I need to make the much more expensive brifter/brake upgrade anymore.

I installed a pair of Juin Techs recently and the opening between the brake pads for the front and the back is soooo narrow that I cant get the disc to run without rubbing. The pistons are somewhat deployed. Disappointed that these are fresh out of the box. What have been people's experience servicing them/replacing the oil?

this was my experience as well. the pistons were factory-set EXTREMELY close together.

solution: loosen one of the oil ports and weep out a very very small amount of oil by pressing the pistons outwards with some kind of wedge.

[octav]

At the moment I have the TRP Spyres they are ok but not great...
I would change at least the front brake, should I go for TRP HY/RD or Juin Tech ?

[takolino]

Sorry to dig up an old post.

Juin Tech R1 (fixed rotor) or X1 (floating rotor). Cable actuated hydraulic that uses mineral oil & common XT pads.
I found them to be better than Spyres, and much lighter after replacing the bolts with ti.

Better how? I read a bike radar review on the Juin Tech, and it wasn't exactly praising them. They said they were good but the power wasn't that great.

I've used Spyres since they came out, and tried about 8 different pad compounds.
The JuinTech, being hydraulic at the piston, simply has more power. Not as much as full hydro, but less lever force needed to get the same braking, in all conditions except freezing (which isn't where I live).
Here's a couple pics of my modded versions.

Black ti bolts, and a smaller arm adjustment.


Without pads, the caliper weighs only 116g.

Hey @UpFromOne tell me more about your titanium bolts mod. I really like the Juin Tech brakes but I'd be happier if I can lighten them up a little. Were you able to swap out the main Ti bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper bodies together? How did they hold up? Source for the Ti bolts? I'm a bit leery of changing a critical part. Hate to see the calipers blow up on a descent.

[froze]

At the moment I have the TRP Spyres they are ok but not great...
I would change at least the front brake, should I go for TRP HY/RD or Juin Tech ?

You might have the single piston version, that was the version they had a year ago, the newest version is the dual piston. The single piston version got so so reviews, but the dual piston has gotten high reviews.

[ChiZ01]

the internal cable routing on some frame are not suitable for cable disc as the cable exit is too close to the caliper and forces you to create sharp bends