Cannondale Slate - anybody else excited?
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FreaK wrote:what's the BB height with those wheels and tyres?
700x23 has the same diameter as 650bx42 so the BB height will be the same as before.
FreaK wrote:what's the BB height with those wheels and tyres?
Also, how much of a comfort hit have you taken?
BB is the same as before. No comfort loss.
2004 Cannondale F600SL Sobe
2012 Cannondale SS EVO HM SRAM Red
2013 Cannondale F29 carbon2
2017 Cannondale Slate Apex
2012 Cannondale SS EVO HM SRAM Red
2013 Cannondale F29 carbon2
2017 Cannondale Slate Apex
Not sure if anyone saw this, but here's an 18lb slate.
http://www.gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-te ... ed-sports/
Also, from a purely monetary point of view, does anyone think the up in componentry of the 2016 slate ultegra worth the extra cost vs the 2016 slate 105? Thinking of getting one. Ive read this thread from start to finish and it may have been the tipping point in getting one. This is coming from a long line of cannondale Caads, Evos, and Trails. I just want one bike now.
http://www.gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-te ... ed-sports/
Also, from a purely monetary point of view, does anyone think the up in componentry of the 2016 slate ultegra worth the extra cost vs the 2016 slate 105? Thinking of getting one. Ive read this thread from start to finish and it may have been the tipping point in getting one. This is coming from a long line of cannondale Caads, Evos, and Trails. I just want one bike now.
So 18lb = ~8.16kg?
My force 1 slate is close to that weight and spent less money from RRP + mods.
Why did they downgrade shifting and braking performance by that much for some odd grams?
Gravelbikes in general have the traction to benefit from powerful brakes, i find it insane to downgrade to mechanical from hydraulic because of weight savings.
My force 1 slate is close to that weight and spent less money from RRP + mods.
Why did they downgrade shifting and braking performance by that much for some odd grams?
Gravelbikes in general have the traction to benefit from powerful brakes, i find it insane to downgrade to mechanical from hydraulic because of weight savings.
There are several reasons to choose cable discs over hydraulic and I'd argue that the brakes on that bike are quite powerful and have a good feel.tomatoe wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 8:39 pmSo 18lb = ~8.16kg?
My force 1 slate is close to that weight and spent less money from RRP + mods.
Why did they downgrade shifting and braking performance by that much for some odd grams?
Gravelbikes in general have the traction to benefit from powerful brakes, i find it insane to downgrade to mechanical from hydraulic because of weight savings.
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There aren't any. 100g saving vs better brake feel, better modulation, more powerful stopping, I'd even argue less maintenance - no cable friction etc...
To each there own, but downgrading to mech brakes is stupid.
Cannondale Slate Ultegra
Trek Fuel EX8
Marin Pine Mountain 1
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Retired bikes
Fuji Cross 1.3
Fuji Absolute 3.0
Trek Fuel EX8
Marin Pine Mountain 1
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Retired bikes
Fuji Cross 1.3
Fuji Absolute 3.0
No sticky pistons, no bleeding, easier to set pad/rotor clearance and get both pads to contact at the same time, smaller levers, no heat limitations. Also, I don't think the feel of a good cable setup is significantly different than hydraulic.
I'm not saying cable is better than hydraulic but I'm saying it's not worse and a definitive downgrade, just different with different pluses and minuses. I bet the owner of that bike prefers his brakes to yours.
I'm not saying cable is better than hydraulic but I'm saying it's not worse and a definitive downgrade, just different with different pluses and minuses. I bet the owner of that bike prefers his brakes to yours.
Mechanical disc brakes can overheat rotors to a bitching shade of rainbow just as easy if not easyer.
Less mass to distribute the heat away. Brake fuild boiling point on bicycle brakes is rarely any sort of issue apart from downhill racing.
I dont agree with better pad and rotor adjustment at all. One in ten mechanical brakes actually push the pad straight or let the pads sit straight.
Facing the mounts wont help. Sticky piston's is a SRAM guide thing or skipped the annual piston lubing.
Roadbike shifter's cable pull ratio never worked well with mechanical disc brakes. Minor wear to cable housing and pads -> no brakes.
Less mass to distribute the heat away. Brake fuild boiling point on bicycle brakes is rarely any sort of issue apart from downhill racing.
I dont agree with better pad and rotor adjustment at all. One in ten mechanical brakes actually push the pad straight or let the pads sit straight.
Facing the mounts wont help. Sticky piston's is a SRAM guide thing or skipped the annual piston lubing.
Roadbike shifter's cable pull ratio never worked well with mechanical disc brakes. Minor wear to cable housing and pads -> no brakes.
I think for a beginner, setting up a cable disc brake is easier, cause you have shorten the cable without bleeding the system if you are doing DIY.
I think they are "good enough" for some (if not most), but no question hydraulic has better feel, power and modulation. (at least for the ones that I tried)
I think they are "good enough" for some (if not most), but no question hydraulic has better feel, power and modulation. (at least for the ones that I tried)
Road hydro shifters look is unacceptable. It's a pure crime against beauty of the bike. And it's not matter of "taste". Thing is objectively ugly. That single reason is enough to go mechanical ( if one must have disc brakes, which is another crime against pure beauty of the road bike )
Go to Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company.
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
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