New Trek Crockett (Major Updates - 10/3/2018, Di2)

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

Yeah, I killed the idea. If I need to adjust the derailleur, or (heaven forbid) I crash and the derailleur goes into limp mode during a race, having the junction-A buried in the stem will be a bad idea.


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Last edited by FIJIGabe on Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

I was referring to the drilling of the bars. If you’re using the bar end for charging that is the junction box.


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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD

I’m going to second drilling the bars being a bad idea. I’ve had alloy bars snap at the stem. When they go it’s instant and catastrophic. I would not purposefully do anything to compromise the integrity of something as load bearing as bars are.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

This is how it looks with the bar end junction box.

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

Hey, I never said anything about drilling the bars. I think the alloy PRO bars have a small hole at the drops to route the wires. I certainly won't be drilling anything!

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

FIJIGabe wrote:Hey, I never said anything about drilling the bars. I think the alloy PRO bars have a small hole at the drops to route the wires. I certainly won't be drilling anything!
LOL! Just read back & realised my comment was directed at @Gravelgrinder not you.




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Gravelgrinder
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by Gravelgrinder

With regards to the drilling, I can see where you're coming from. It's probably not my best idea ever but the holes in this bar have been there for a few years now, mostly on a Salsa Fargo for bikepacking in Scotland, and I've moved them over to see how I like them on this bike. They don't show any visable signs of cracking.

The holes for the levers are below the shifter clamp, so they shouldn't have to much force applied to them as I'm not using the drops much. The hole to get the cable in to the stem is right in the centre of the bar, between the stem clamps, where i'm thinking that there is again, not to much flexing going on. If the bar cracks there I'm hoping the stem clamps will hold it in place and prevent something catastrophic happening. There is no need to drill any holes in this Bontrager stem as there is a big gap between the stem and the back of the bar for their blender mount system to fit, which is where the cable exits.

Still, not something I'd advise other people to do, but after searching around online, quite a few other people have done it without causing a brake in the bar, i'm comfortable with it. And to me, less visable cables looks better. I'd stick the brake housing through there as well if I was brave enough to drill the fork.

each the their own really.

Does anyone have a smart idea on how to fit a full length fender to the back of one of these? the frames wiht teh sliding drop outs dnot have any mounting points and i'd rather not fit some clip ons.
thanks.

Connor
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by Connor

Looks super clean! Did you stick with mechanical discs or go to 9170?

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

Gravelgrinder wrote:With regards to the drilling, I can see where you're coming from. It's probably not my best idea ever but the holes in this bar have been there for a few years now, mostly on a Salsa Fargo for bikepacking in Scotland, and I've moved them over to see how I like them on this bike. They don't show any visable signs of cracking.

The holes for the levers are below the shifter clamp, so they shouldn't have to much force applied to them as I'm not using the drops much. The hole to get the cable in to the stem is right in the centre of the bar, between the stem clamps, where i'm thinking that there is again, not to much flexing going on. If the bar cracks there I'm hoping the stem clamps will hold it in place and prevent something catastrophic happening. There is no need to drill any holes in this Bontrager stem as there is a big gap between the stem and the back of the bar for their blender mount system to fit, which is where the cable exits.

Still, not something I'd advise other people to do, but after searching around online, quite a few other people have done it without causing a brake in the bar, i'm comfortable with it. And to me, less visable cables looks better. I'd stick the brake housing through there as well if I was brave enough to drill the fork.

each the their own really.

Does anyone have a smart idea on how to fit a full length fender to the back of one of these? the frames wiht teh sliding drop outs dnot have any mounting points and i'd rather not fit some clip ons.
thanks.
Alloy bars don’t tend to give much, if any, warning before they snap. All your post tells us is that you’ve managed to get away with it so far. I just hope you have a good dentist and carry a donor card.


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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD

ultimobici wrote:
Wed Oct 31, 2018 7:56 am
Alloy bars don’t tend to give much, if any, warning before they snap. All your post tells us is that you’ve managed to get away with it so far. I just hope you have a good dentist and carry a donor card.
I can speak from experience on the lack of warning. I had an alloy bar snap at the stem just as I was getting out of the sadle to power out of a corner. One second everything is fine, the next I'm going over the front of the bike on my side. I didn't need a dentist, but I did have to replace the bike as the stem cracked the top tube when I went down.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

Connor wrote:Looks super clean! Did you stick with mechanical discs or go to 9170?
Di2 Hydraulic.


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Connor
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by Connor

ultimobici wrote:
Wed Oct 31, 2018 6:07 pm
Connor wrote:Looks super clean! Did you stick with mechanical discs or go to 9170?
Di2 Hydraulic.


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Nice! The ergonomics of those levers are the best out there imo

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

Oof! Hit an unmarked tree stump during a CX race this weekend and ended up over the bars, in the dirt. Snapped the rear hanger and hit the shifter, hard.

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15 minutes in my garage managed to undo all the damage, and I put my 11-42 cassette on, for this weekend’s race (hilly course).

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jfranci3
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by jfranci3

Looks like everything broke correctly.

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

Yeah, it did. Thankfully, Trek is kind enough to use the same hanger on multiple frames (Madone/Domane/Crockett/Boone), so I was able to put a spare hanger I had in my toolbox on the frame and get it back into shape, quickly.


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