New Trek Crockett (Major Updates - 10/3/2018, Di2)

The spirit of Grav-lo-cross. No but seriously, cyclocross and gravel go here!

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jfranci3
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by jfranci3

IrrelevantD wrote:
Tue Mar 20, 2018 1:00 am
jfranci3 wrote:
Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:07 pm
43c gravel king SKs tires are officially the largest I can fit. Despite the clearance, it is pretty tough wiggling it into the dropout while getting the chain on. The drive side rear seat stay is the constraint. Everywhere else has loads of clearance, so no mud concerns. These are at 50psi for the sealant goo to do it's work and to set the bead.
I’d be mindful of mud with the 43s. I have GravelKing SK 38s on my ‘16 (measure 40), I wore about a 2sq in bare spot in the paint on my drive side chain stay from mud that got caked on the tire. Mind you, it was thick North Texas clay, but I don’t use the wheels with the 38s anymore unless I know it’s going to be dry.
weigs wrote:
Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:41 am
Does anyone know what diameter front derailleur seatpost clamp you need for the crockett frame?
34.9mm

You were right about the bare spot. I got a 1mm wide scrape on non-clinging dirt/gravel roads with a few sand climbs. 40mm measured is the widest you want to go if you care about your paint. My bike is black and had dings, so no biggie. I cleaned it and put some charcoal touch up paint on it.

It was interesting riding in a true gravel race. I’m not athletic, so I was surprised by the near 100% competitiveness of the ride I was on. With the mix of equipment, it was a bit scary to be in a paceline-peloton-mob, you’d find a bit of softer surface, and the 28c road bikes would come flying backward while the wider tire 29” bikes would come flying forward at the same time!
The 43mm GK SKs were barely decent enough to climb the 7deg ish 4-6” deep fluffy sand hills. Unfortunately, those with CX tires would instantly sink and fat bikes wouldn’t notice the difference. I’d climb OK and the dude in front of me would fall over. I’d either catch his groove or wouldn’t have enough speed to run him over. The guys on CX tire knew they couldn’t do it, so they uncoupled and ran over me.

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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD

jfranci3 wrote:
Mon May 14, 2018 4:46 pm
You were right about the bare spot. I got a 1mm wide scrape on non-clinging dirt/gravel roads with a few sand climbs. 40mm measured is the widest you want to go if you care about your paint. My bike is black and had dings, so no biggie. I cleaned it and put some charcoal touch up paint on it.
That sucks. One of those things I hate being right about. I ended up wrapping that spot with electrical tape about 2 layers thick. Figure I'll hopefully see the tape fray before any further damage is done, and it's fairly well hidden behind the crank.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

It begins anew...

Image


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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

Made a host of changes during the off-season, including going 1x and going with internal Di2. Although Trek offered a Di2 version of this bike, it had an external battery, and that wouldn't cut it for me. Here's the rundown of all the parts I used:

Frame: Trek Crockett Disc, 100QR/135QR
Crank: Ultegra 6800 w/ Wolftooth 38t drop-stop chainring (customized Shimano 6800 CX bolt covers)
Front derailleur: gone
Rear derailleur: Shimano XT M8000
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra 11/32
Chain: Shimano HG-901
Brakes: Shimano RS785 Post Mount Road Disc Brake Calipers
Handlebar: Bontrager RL IsoSpeed (replaced the RXL that I discovered had cracked, during the teardown) w/ 1st gen K-Edge Garmin mount and Bontrager cork bar tape
Stem: Bontrager XXX 110mm
Seatpost: Bontrager XXX 27.2
Saddle: Bontrager Evoke RXL 138mm
Wheels: White Industries CLD hubs (24f/28r) laced to H Plus Son Hydra rims w/ DT Swiss Revolution spokes and Stan's tape
Tires: Clement PDX Tubeless (700x33c)

I placed the batter in the seatpost, with the Shimano BT connector, attached. The Junction-A is in the standard position, but the Junction-B couldn't go in the BB, due to space reasons, so I relocated it into the seat tube, and fed all of the cables through a small hole in the frame at the BB/Seat tube junction. The only real "modification" I had to make to the frame was to enlarge the hole at the bottom of the BB, where the threaded insert for running cables goes, and I fed the cable coming from the Junction-A, through that, to reach the Junction-B.

ImageIMG_7545 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr
ImageIMG_7548 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr
ImageIMG_7553 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr
ImageIMG_7567 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr

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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD

Looks good, only problem I see with it is that the stem cab says Austin and not Fort Worth*. :D


*to be fair, I don't know that they have any marked for the Ft. Worth shop.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

The FTW shop is nice, but they didn't have any swag in my size when I was there. Regardless, I didn't buy the bike in Austin, just a fan.

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onemanpeloton
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by onemanpeloton

Nice improvement, that looks great!

Would be interested to see some close up pictures of the di2 wiring around the handlebars
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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

I'll take a photo of the setup once I get home. Just to give you an idea, the routing is pretty standard: left shifter and right shifter connected to a 3-port Junction-A, then that, routed along with the brake hose, into the frame. I covered the wire/hose with some shrink-wrap, that is a little bunched up, but over time has stretched out. The routing looks alright.

If I were to do it again, I would likely have gone for a PRO alloy bar and stem, routed the wires internally through the bar and placed the Junction-A in the stem, then routed the cables out of the stem and through the rear derailleur hole in the top-tube (that's now unused). The wires would have to go down the headtube to the downtube, because there's no hole in the top tube leading to the seat tube, and even if there were, it would likely be blocked off with the seat post. Alas, I think I'm done modifying this bike, and I look forward to my next CX/gravel bike.

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

Sorry for the delay in getting my photos up, but here you go:

ImageIMG_7610 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr
ImageIMG_7608 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr
ImageIMG_7607 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr
ImageIMG_7605 by Gabriel Couriel, on Flickr

JokkeA
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Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:17 am

by JokkeA

Lovely bike and a really nice choice of wheels! How well does the bluetooth adapter work inside the frame? Building a bike like this today I might go with the new Ultegra RX di2 derailleur, but XT gives you the option of going with a larger cassette in the future.

Here's my almost identical pink 1x11 di2 Crockett: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokkea/al ... 6818351220

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

I’ve seen photos of our bike. It gave me some direction in building mine, since I knew it could be done.

Regarding the Bluetooth adapter, it works just fine. I have it connected to the battery in the seat tube, but I did use a longer cable than the 150mm one Shimano supplies. The unit communicates perfectly with my Garmin, although the communication with my cell phone is so unreliable, I never use it for that purpose.


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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD

JokkeA wrote:
Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:52 am
Lovely bike and a really nice choice of wheels! How well does the bluetooth adapter work inside the frame? Building a bike like this today I might go with the new Ultegra RX di2 derailleur, but XT gives you the option of going with a larger cassette in the future.

Here's my almost identical pink 1x11 di2 Crockett: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokkea/al ... 6818351220
Bluetooth works fine inside the frame. I don't have Di2 on my Crockett, but I do on my Allez Sprint and the wireless adapter is inside the top tube. No issues at all.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

Gravelgrinder
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2018 5:12 pm

by Gravelgrinder

I’ve built the same thing, check it out. Image

Got the cables running inside the bar and stem by drilling some holes in the bar. That’s means I can use the bar end charging port to keep it tidy. The stem is some cheap bontrager blender stem which has gaps between the stem and the bar to route the cable out. I’m tempted to drill the steerer tube so I can have the cables completely hidden but I’m not to sure drilling a carbon steerer is a bright idea.

All up 10.0kg with everything In the picture.




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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

Gravelgrinder wrote:I’ve built the same thing, check it out. Image

Got the cables running inside the bar and stem by drilling some holes in the bar. That’s means I can use the bar end charging port to keep it tidy. The stem is some cheap bontrager blender stem which has gaps between the stem and the bar to route the cable out. I’m tempted to drill the steerer tube so I can have the cables completely hidden but I’m not to sure drilling a carbon steerer is a bright idea.

All up 10.0kg with everything In the picture.




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Drilling the bars by the stem wasn’t too good an idea to begin with.


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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

FIJIGabe wrote:I'll take a photo of the setup once I get home. Just to give you an idea, the routing is pretty standard: left shifter and right shifter connected to a 3-port Junction-A, then that, routed along with the brake hose, into the frame. I covered the wire/hose with some shrink-wrap, that is a little bunched up, but over time has stretched out. The routing looks alright.

If I were to do it again, I would likely have gone for a PRO alloy bar and stem, routed the wires internally through the bar and placed the Junction-A in the stem, then routed the cables out of the stem and through the rear derailleur hole in the top-tube (that's now unused). The wires would have to go down the headtube to the downtube, because there's no hole in the top tube leading to the seat tube, and even if there were, it would likely be blocked off with the seat post. Alas, I think I'm done modifying this bike, and I look forward to my next CX/gravel bike.

Pro’s Vibe Alloy bars don’t allow fully concealed cabling like their carbon versions do. They allow cleaner wiring but there still needs to be one cable showing between the bar tape & the frame.


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