Chain Cleaning
Moderator: robbosmans
Every one may have her/his own methods, most certainly. Chain manufacturers, though, very much advise against any sort of washing, degreasing or similar, because once you remove the original grease from between the links, that chain will never again be properly greased and its lifespan will be shortened.
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prendrefeu wrote:I know of three shops that will take off the chain and cassette and then run them either through a ultra-sonic cleaner with degreaser or a bio-degreasing system. Three. In Southern California, where the number of riders and high-end equipment is ridiculous.
Those shops also have no problems threading a shifting cable into a SRAM lever, doc.
*cough*
Everyone has their own methods. Do what works for you and live by your actions. Period.
3 shops doing it dosnt make it right, just makes it easy for them and probably sells more chains as they will wear out quicker, they probably even like sram chains as do most shops as they are easier to fit than shimano ones, does that make them better? Do what work for the chains is a better way.
I think everyone will agree that it is harder to put a gear cable in to a sram shifter than it is shimano 7800
Any other stupid comments to make?
Last edited by bikedoc on Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
giantdale wrote:Every one may have her/his own methods, most certainly. Chain manufacturers, though, very much advise against any sort of washing, degreasing or similar, because once you remove the original grease from between the links, that chain will never again be properly greased and its lifespan will be shortened.
exactly
but people will still do it because it makes the chain look cleaner
- prendrefeu
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bikedoc wrote:I think everyone will agree that it is harder to put a gear cable in to a sram shifter than it is shimano 7800
Any other stupid comments to make?
You just made one yourself with that question. "Everyone" is an absolute statement, and is easily dismissible. Is 7800 Easier to thread than SRAM? Sure. But my statement, as written above, was that those shops have no problems threading a shifter cable in a SRAM lever. Easier or not, they don't have a problem doing it. They don't stress out about it and write in a thread about SRAM's upcoming releases that it's a frustrating task, because really, to a lot of people, it isn't at all frustrating or complicated to do.
Clearly they also don't have a problem with cleaning chains out completely before re-lubing.
From personal experience, chains have lasted longer by my method compared to the manufacturer's prescribed "never degrease" method.
Again, your own personal experience may vary, but to state absolutes - which you have done now twice in this thread alone - is just silly.
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I've perfected a technique much like DaveS suggests
- remove the chain
- put in a plastic bottle with about 200ml of citrus degreaser in it, leaving to settle for 5 mins
- then shake violently for a minute or so.
- Then empty dirty fluid
- then fill with very hot water and detergent (washing up liquid)
- shake violently
- empty
- fill with hot water
- shake violently
- empty and tip out chain
- dry vigorously in kitchen (paper) towel
- immediately re-fit chain and lube generously every link with dry lube
OTOH if you're chain doesn't get wet you can get away with an on the bike dry lube clean.
- remove the chain
- put in a plastic bottle with about 200ml of citrus degreaser in it, leaving to settle for 5 mins
- then shake violently for a minute or so.
- Then empty dirty fluid
- then fill with very hot water and detergent (washing up liquid)
- shake violently
- empty
- fill with hot water
- shake violently
- empty and tip out chain
- dry vigorously in kitchen (paper) towel
- immediately re-fit chain and lube generously every link with dry lube
OTOH if you're chain doesn't get wet you can get away with an on the bike dry lube clean.
----------------------------------------
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Stiff, Light, Aero - Pick Three!!
I use this, works really well . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EyCTHgS ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
sawyer wrote:I've perfected a technique much like DaveS suggests
- remove the chain
- put in a plastic bottle with about 200ml of citrus degreaser in it, leaving to settle for 5 mins
- then shake violently for a minute or so.
- Then empty dirty fluid
- then fill with very hot water and detergent (washing up liquid)
- shake violently
- empty
- fill with hot water
- shake violently
- empty and tip out chain
- dry vigorously in kitchen (paper) towel
- immediately re-fit chain and lube generously every link with dry lube
OTOH if you're chain doesn't get wet you can get away with an on the bike dry lube clean.
Way to much violence in you method. See a therapist immediately.
Ever since I discovered it, I've been using Sheldon Brown's ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System.
It takes me about seven hours to do a chain, but I'm getting 10,000 miles from a Shimano chain and 15,000 from Campy.
YMMV
It takes me about seven hours to do a chain, but I'm getting 10,000 miles from a Shimano chain and 15,000 from Campy.
YMMV
Life's too short to ride clinchers.
Current:
Parlee Z-Zero ISP
Santa Cruz Stigmata CC
Past:
Ridley X-Fire Disc
Current:
Parlee Z-Zero ISP
Santa Cruz Stigmata CC
Past:
Ridley X-Fire Disc
I wipe my chain with a clean rag soaked in lubricant after every couple of rides. Sometimes, I will use a very few drops of lighter fluid (e.g. Ronson) on a rag first. That seems to work very well on dirtier chains. Its highly volatile, so its gone almost instantly and doesn't seem to leave any residue. It also does a nifty job of cleaning between cassette cogs.
KAC
KAC
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I just use quick wax detailer spray, like for my car, on the bike. After a ride, once a week, use a nice micro fiber towel, wipe/clean the entire bike.
I typically don't ride in wet weather. Maybe some sprinkler water that gets it a little dirty. I'm OCD. So my methods work, my bike is always spotless. I've only sprayed the bike down and use a mild detergent maybe 2x in 1yr. Otherwise, it is just the quick detailer and the micro fiber after each ride. It is easier to maintain a clean bike by a quick post ride weekly detail, then wait a month or two when it is a complete mess.
Next, nothing wrong with simple green on the chain. I wouldn't put it on anything else though. You don't need it unless you are running through mud/dirt and can't clean it more often. Then the spraying it down lightly with a hose, mild detergent would be OK, just don't soak it and get water all down the seatpost, lightly spray it.
I don't even bother "soaking/cleaning" my chain. I just make sure it is clean from the first install, then use something like Prolink, put 1 drop per link on the chain. That is all you need. Pro mechanics will tell you this, only 1 drop per link. Then wipe the chain off.
Then I just reapply every 100-200 miles, one drop per link, wipe it down again. I also wipe the chain with a rag regularly to get any outside dirt off, as well as the pulleys/chainrings. Don't over lube the chain either or soak it. It will make a mess and serves zero benefit.
My theory is, when you train/race and put miles on the chain, it is going to stretch and wear out anyway in 1500 miles. So a little extra debris/dirt that might be inside the links, oh well, it isn't going to cause any premature wear before it stretches and need replacing anyway. Plus using my above method of just wiping it down, reapplying Prolink ever few weeks, keeps it clean enough and lubricated very well.
I typically don't ride in wet weather. Maybe some sprinkler water that gets it a little dirty. I'm OCD. So my methods work, my bike is always spotless. I've only sprayed the bike down and use a mild detergent maybe 2x in 1yr. Otherwise, it is just the quick detailer and the micro fiber after each ride. It is easier to maintain a clean bike by a quick post ride weekly detail, then wait a month or two when it is a complete mess.
Next, nothing wrong with simple green on the chain. I wouldn't put it on anything else though. You don't need it unless you are running through mud/dirt and can't clean it more often. Then the spraying it down lightly with a hose, mild detergent would be OK, just don't soak it and get water all down the seatpost, lightly spray it.
I don't even bother "soaking/cleaning" my chain. I just make sure it is clean from the first install, then use something like Prolink, put 1 drop per link on the chain. That is all you need. Pro mechanics will tell you this, only 1 drop per link. Then wipe the chain off.
Then I just reapply every 100-200 miles, one drop per link, wipe it down again. I also wipe the chain with a rag regularly to get any outside dirt off, as well as the pulleys/chainrings. Don't over lube the chain either or soak it. It will make a mess and serves zero benefit.
My theory is, when you train/race and put miles on the chain, it is going to stretch and wear out anyway in 1500 miles. So a little extra debris/dirt that might be inside the links, oh well, it isn't going to cause any premature wear before it stretches and need replacing anyway. Plus using my above method of just wiping it down, reapplying Prolink ever few weeks, keeps it clean enough and lubricated very well.
kfreytag wrote:Ever since I discovered it, I've been using Sheldon Brown's ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System
Excellent!
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I've been using ultrasonic cleaner on warm setting with charcoal starter liquid
for years and there is nothing that works better that I know of. You do not have
to vigorously shaking s--t. 10 minutes and chain is spotless. Reuse liquid after sediment
settles and eventually use it for intended purpose - barbeque starter. I re-lube chain
ultrasonically, so to speak, too... end of question.
for years and there is nothing that works better that I know of. You do not have
to vigorously shaking s--t. 10 minutes and chain is spotless. Reuse liquid after sediment
settles and eventually use it for intended purpose - barbeque starter. I re-lube chain
ultrasonically, so to speak, too... end of question.
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kfreytag wrote:Ever since I discovered it, I've been using Sheldon Brown's ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System.
It takes me about seven hours to do a chain, but I'm getting 10,000 miles from a Shimano chain and 15,000 from Campy.
YMMV
You seriously do that?
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kfreytag wrote:
Ever since I discovered it, I've been using Sheldon Brown's ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System.
It takes me about seven hours to do a chain, but I'm getting 10,000 miles from a Shimano chain and 15,000 from Campy.
YMMV
You are obviously not soaking chain parts overnight! I soak mine for a week- I have two chains I alternate- and I get at least 20,000km on my shimano chains- a months use by the way- and 30,000km on my 11 speed campy chains. A side benefit is that the chain is so clean i can use the side links as a mirror to check on my hair before the post ride coffee!
Ever since I discovered it, I've been using Sheldon Brown's ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System.
It takes me about seven hours to do a chain, but I'm getting 10,000 miles from a Shimano chain and 15,000 from Campy.
YMMV
You are obviously not soaking chain parts overnight! I soak mine for a week- I have two chains I alternate- and I get at least 20,000km on my shimano chains- a months use by the way- and 30,000km on my 11 speed campy chains. A side benefit is that the chain is so clean i can use the side links as a mirror to check on my hair before the post ride coffee!
i use progold and drip each roller, wipe with an old rag to clean the side plates, clean the rear cogs and chainrings with the same rag to prevent contaminating the clean chain, and end by dripping again roller by roller and let dry overnight.
progold is clean to begin with, a pretty good solvent, and doesn't attract much dirt. i buy a bulk jug and refill the little drip bottle every now and then.
progold is clean to begin with, a pretty good solvent, and doesn't attract much dirt. i buy a bulk jug and refill the little drip bottle every now and then.
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