Any experience with Easton EC90 SL Stem and EC90 SLX3 bars?
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LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE THEM! I have that combo on all my bikes except my English which uses a proprietary stem, but still the SLX bars.
The line shown in the photos above is normal. It's on my bars too.
I can't say enough about these bars and the stem. My only ever complaint was the hardware on the stem will rust over time. I replaced my hardware with titanium bits.
The line shown in the photos above is normal. It's on my bars too.
I can't say enough about these bars and the stem. My only ever complaint was the hardware on the stem will rust over time. I replaced my hardware with titanium bits.
Since I first responded to this post, I have switched stems to the EC90 SL. (Still using the EC90 SLX3 bars)
The combo is very nice and seems plentry stiff to me.
The clamp of the EC90 SL is round and fits the bars perfectly. the "top-lock" construction method really seems superior. I am surprised everyone doesn't do it. here is really no reason to leave gaps at both the top and bottom of the clamp.
The combo is very nice and seems plentry stiff to me.
The clamp of the EC90 SL is round and fits the bars perfectly. the "top-lock" construction method really seems superior. I am surprised everyone doesn't do it. here is really no reason to leave gaps at both the top and bottom of the clamp.
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Rick wrote:In another thread, I wrote about how I had this problem with a 3T stem. The clamp area was not truly round, so I honed it out slightly using fine sandpaper wrapped over a 31.6 seatpost scrap. Worked perfectl;, no bite marks
Since this thread came back up. I'll reply to an old reply.
My bite marks also came from a 3T stem. Another person on Road Bike Review also had bite marks on his bars from a non round 3T face plate.
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i'll reply to your reply of an old reply:
the 3t face plates start out properly shaped, but are too thin, especially near the "ears" that the bolts go through. the bolts end up trying to bend the ears towards the stem, and the inside edge of the face plate bends into the bar. so it creases the bar.
this is also why the ti bolts break on these stems- area around the bolt head is no longer flush, it forces the bolt into a bend.
the 3t face plates start out properly shaped, but are too thin, especially near the "ears" that the bolts go through. the bolts end up trying to bend the ears towards the stem, and the inside edge of the face plate bends into the bar. so it creases the bar.
this is also why the ti bolts break on these stems- area around the bolt head is no longer flush, it forces the bolt into a bend.
The Ti bolts on 3T stems are just plain defective. When I replaced mine with Ti bolts from Pro-Bolt, I didn't have a single one break.
5 n-m just isn't that much stress. They should withstand that with an enormous safety factor.
I have mixed feelings about 3T. Their designs are very elegant and I like them. But with my problems with their Ti bolts and out-of-round clamps, I just won't buy anything else from them if there is a good alternative. Their quality control seems suspect. Any manufacturer can have a defect, but I have never had so many problems clustered on one.
I actually have 2 3T ARX stems, and in another thread I wrote about how I accidentally found out how to easily remove all the graphics by wiping it with the solvent MEK. Good news for some I guess, but really none of my other graphics on other parts by other manufacturers wipe off so easily.
{BOTH 3T stems had breaking bolts and out-of-round clamps, by the way. I am still using one with aluminum bars, so the bite doesn't seem like as big a problem. Designing things so they will be round IN THE INSTALLED-STRESSED CONDITION is not that tough.}
5 n-m just isn't that much stress. They should withstand that with an enormous safety factor.
I have mixed feelings about 3T. Their designs are very elegant and I like them. But with my problems with their Ti bolts and out-of-round clamps, I just won't buy anything else from them if there is a good alternative. Their quality control seems suspect. Any manufacturer can have a defect, but I have never had so many problems clustered on one.
I actually have 2 3T ARX stems, and in another thread I wrote about how I accidentally found out how to easily remove all the graphics by wiping it with the solvent MEK. Good news for some I guess, but really none of my other graphics on other parts by other manufacturers wipe off so easily.
{BOTH 3T stems had breaking bolts and out-of-round clamps, by the way. I am still using one with aluminum bars, so the bite doesn't seem like as big a problem. Designing things so they will be round IN THE INSTALLED-STRESSED CONDITION is not that tough.}
xnavalav8r wrote:LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE THEM! I have that combo on all my bikes except my English which uses a proprietary stem, but still the SLX bars.
The line shown in the photos above is normal. It's on my bars too.
I can't say enough about these bars and the stem. My only ever complaint was the hardware on the stem will rust over time. I replaced my hardware with titanium bits.
Thanks
Now I can ride in a more relaxed way and enjoy my stem/bar combo, without being worried about that "line".
How does the SLX 3 bars and SL stem compare with a setup that has a 90mm stem with -6 deg and bars that have 125mm drop and 80mm reach?
My current setup is comfortable for me when riding on the hoods which is what I do most of the time and I dont want to alter it too much but its heavy fsa kit and needs upgraded. Will I have to go for a different length stem or move my seat forward or backward?
My current setup is comfortable for me when riding on the hoods which is what I do most of the time and I dont want to alter it too much but its heavy fsa kit and needs upgraded. Will I have to go for a different length stem or move my seat forward or backward?
I have to say that the SLX3 is my favorite bar. I have been using it since 2008- I keep trying other shapes and keep coming back to this one.
I think that if it had a longer flat on the bottom of the bar (like classic bars) it would be the perfect bar.
I think that if it had a longer flat on the bottom of the bar (like classic bars) it would be the perfect bar.