Tight Rotor 3D+ crankset?

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Kermithimself
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Location: Denmark

by Kermithimself

Just installed a P2M Rotor 3D+ BB30 crankset on my Orbea, and have removed any play. When I tighten it to the required torque it seems that the cranks are spinning quite tight, and stop after about 1 turn. Is it just in the beginning to break in the cranks, or should I loosen the cranks?
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maxima
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Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:37 am

by maxima

Take it out, Lube heavily and u should losen1/4 to 1/3 turns after feeling the crank doesn't move freely. Go out for a spin and adjust again. After a few rides should break in

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Roeboe
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Location: Zolder, Belgium.

by Roeboe

Just the break in i think, my agilis had it, go riding and after a few 100k feel again..

timzcat
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Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:50 am

by timzcat

Confused. You should torque crank bolt first then remove play with adjustment, not the other way around.

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Kermithimself
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by Kermithimself

Alright, thanks for the advice. Had it set up, but it seems like the crankbolt is coming loose. Very weird, and very annoying as it creates play and makes it nearly impossible to ride with.
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d1234
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Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 12:39 pm

by d1234

Kermithimself wrote:Alright, thanks for the advice. Had it set up, but it seems like the crankbolt is coming loose. Very weird, and very annoying as it creates play and makes it nearly impossible to ride with.


To stop the crankbolt coming loose,
1. back off the lock ring, then
2. tighten the crank bolt. (Use a torque wrench - it has to be very tight, but you need to know exactly!)
3. last, adjust the lock ring. If the crank still comes loose then contact Rotor.

New bearings are often tight, but if the lock ring is adjusted before the crank bolt is tightened (3 before 2), for sure there is axial overload on the bearings. This will add a lot of bearing friction, which would give the slow crank results you have.

P.S. Make sure the steel crank remover ring (a Shimano cassette tool fits in it) is positioned correctly in the crank. It should be installed in the crank before the bolt, and the planar face must be in the crank, with the open cup side surrounding the bolt head. Use lots of grease between every joint.

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Kermithimself
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Location: Denmark

by Kermithimself

Alright, just to get things clear to me :) The lockring is what Rotor calls pre-load nut - the ring that's on the non-driveside. The crankbolt is the red bolt on the driveside.

The weird thing is that my preload nut is turned all the way out and there's no play whatsoever.
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Kermithimself
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by Kermithimself

Got a friendly PM from Mario Jr. who asked me to contact him tomorrow - thanks man!

But I still looked at my crank again because there was something that I couldn't quite make out. You see, I took the bike to my local shop who told me that I needed to put in the 1 mm spacer that was provided with the crankset. And so they did. When I took the bike out for a spin the right crankarm came loose so I had to tighten it while riding. Well, when I just looked at my crank now I only needed to remove the crankbolt and the crankarm came off - which it should. So something was definately wrong. I read the manual again, and couldn't find the part about the 1 mm spacer. So I removed it, installed the crankset again and loosened the crankbolt. This time the crankarm didn't come off :beerchug: Seems like the shop looked at the BBright manual and not the BB30.

The crank's a bit tight now, but not too much. I can get 1-1,5 rotations if I spin it. I'll give it a try and see if it fixed it.
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cccyco
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:10 pm

by cccyco

I just assemble rotor 3d plus mtb double crank to my frame.
and I obey the instruction manual strictly,
my mtb frame bb width is 73mm,
for non-drive side,there is 11.5mm spacer+ one preload nut+one very thin washer
for drive side,there is 11.5mm spacer+5.5mm spacer

after step4, tight the RED bolt(8mm allen) by using 35Nm torque in drive side
I found it is impossible to go on for step5,

First, there is no lateral play when step4 complete,so is that necessary to tight preload nut in non-drive side?

Second, my preload nut has already pressed to the non-drive side crank arm, can't turn it clockwise by human hand. so the result is I can't tight the pinch bolt in preload nut,because the bolt is not long enough.

timzcat
Posts: 315
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:50 am

by timzcat

I just want to echo the use plenty of grease already mentioned, especially on the DS bolt.
I had to destroy a 3D+ crankset in order to salvage a frame and I had already removed the bolt in order to remove the DS crank arm. Took the removal part out and put the bolt back on and it went in my hand about 3/4 of the way and just stopped. It siezed so bad it was not removable and trust me I tried everything. Only thing different this time then any other time I had taken DS off was time, it had been a while since I last disassembled the crank.

tri
Posts: 140
Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 1:44 am

by tri

Sorry for activating an old thread but I have to ask. Just go my p2m with rotor3d+ cranks. And I installed the crank with this spacer kit

Image

BUT without the small spacer. I torqued the crank to to the specs. But I had some play. I didn't pay to much attention to the pre-load adjuster on the non-drive side. Instead I took the crankset appart and reinstalled it with all the spacers with the kit. And I got no play, but the pre-load adjuster on the non-drive side (which i turned as far bak as possible before installing the crank) cant be turned now. Did I install the crank correctly?

benzebub
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 1:24 pm

by benzebub

sorry to dig up this ancient thread.

I just installed a rotor 3D+ with P2M NG on my bike with T47 bottom bracket (external cups). I followed rotor's instructions but the crank seems way tight, I can barely get it to do 1 turn by hand and it isn't even tightened to torque specs.. I backed up the pre load ring all the way to the NDS arm so no room for adjustment there.. I have no idea if this is normal or if I did something wrong. The only thing I can think of is the dust seal orientation of the bottom bracket that is reversed but I'm not sure if this would increase the spacing?
But I could be wrong

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Fixie82
Posts: 356
Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:45 am

by Fixie82

Try removing the preload ring and using spacer to take up any play. Not the same but I had some BSA30 cups that were slightly wider than standard and had the same experience as you using the preload collar.

benzebub
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 1:24 pm

by benzebub

ok, will try.. I removed the dust seal on the bottom bracket and this seemed to help to, is this ok or will this wreck the bearings? if not, is it best to remove the NDS dust seal or drive side?

thanks!
But I could be wrong

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Fixie82
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Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:45 am

by Fixie82

I would leave them on, you will have ample room after removing the preload collar. You might need to buy some 1mm and .5mm spacers, Wheels Manufacturing sell them separately as do other BB manufacturers.

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