Haha. I used to want a super accurate floor pump also, but then reality hits. One day you will realize that no matter what pump you have - Silca, Park, Lezyne, Blackburn, etc.. - no matter what pump you have ALL of them will let a little air escape when you remove the pump head from the valve after pumping. For this reason alone, your inflated air pressure will always be inaccurate and lower than the reading on the pump.
One solution. There is an aftermarket pump head made by a Japanese company. I can't remember the name. Maybe Hozan? Anyway, you flick the turning mechanism to clamp down on the valve. When finished inflating, you do the reverse unscrewing method. It's simple, pure, and let's out hardly any air at all, so your inflation is waaaaaay more accurate. A lot of guys at Excel Sports use it. And I am pretty sure tht they still sell this device. So, you use your own pump. It is kinda expensive though.
Floor Pump with Accurate gauge
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Briscoelab
- Posts: 1513
- Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 6:01 pm
I really like the Specialized Air Tool Comp. It has a very secure locking head and a big, easy to read gauge. It is consistent with itself (which is the most important) and very close to the gauge I use for CX racing.
I also like the Craftsman battery operated inflator with built in gauge. Although, it does read about 2 psi high IME. For road that doesn't matter, for CX and MTB I just have to keep it in mind.
I also like the Craftsman battery operated inflator with built in gauge. Although, it does read about 2 psi high IME. For road that doesn't matter, for CX and MTB I just have to keep it in mind.
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WasFab wrote:allezkmiec wrote:My Lezyne Alloy Floor Drive is always within 1-2 PSI of my SKS digital gauge, at both road and mountain bike pressures, and I've had it almost two years. Pretty darn accurate in my book.
I have just got the Lezyne alloy floor pump and I'm quite struggling with screwing the Presta head into the valve. I have a valve extender on my aero wheels and I find it difficult to screw in the Presta head, it basically turn the extender instead of just screw on top of it down. Also when I tried to screw it out, it turned the extender out of the tyre valve.
Any recommendation how you use it? I guess I'm doing something wrong..?
Get a Lezyne Slip Chuck or Speed Chuck for your pump. With them you don't have to screw the head to the valve.
http://lezyne.com/floor-pumps#panel-13" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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thisisatest
- Shop Owner
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or the kcnc version
Yeah, those are the type of pump heads I was talking about earlier in my first reply to this thread. I found the company that Excel imports theirs from. It wasn't Hozan, and earlier thought. It is Tanaka. It looks very similar in Kuwahara design that laager posted. The KCNC part that thisisatest posted looks good as well.
I only have experience with the Tanaka and the Silca Pump Head Locking 40.0 head made by Silca. Be careful of the Silca one. It sucks. The lever is too flimsy and doesn't lock down well.
- Here is the Silca locking head...
I only have experience with the Tanaka and the Silca Pump Head Locking 40.0 head made by Silca. Be careful of the Silca one. It sucks. The lever is too flimsy and doesn't lock down well.
- Here is the Silca locking head...
kervelo wrote:WasFab wrote:allezkmiec wrote:My Lezyne Alloy Floor Drive is always within 1-2 PSI of my SKS digital gauge, at both road and mountain bike pressures, and I've had it almost two years. Pretty darn accurate in my book.
I have just got the Lezyne alloy floor pump and I'm quite struggling with screwing the Presta head into the valve. I have a valve extender on my aero wheels and I find it difficult to screw in the Presta head, it basically turn the extender instead of just screw on top of it down. Also when I tried to screw it out, it turned the extender out of the tyre valve.
Any recommendation how you use it? I guess I'm doing something wrong..?
Get a Lezyne Slip Chuck or Speed Chuck for your pump. With them you don't have to screw the head to the valve.
http://lezyne.com/floor-pumps#panel-13" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I don't get it, here with the 2 pictures I added I try to use this 90 degrees Presta extender that came with my new Lezyne floor pump but there is no way that it hold on the valve. Is this what you meant I should have..?
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bones wrote:Yeah, those are the type of pump heads I was talking about earlier in my first reply to this thread. I found the company that Excel imports theirs from. It wasn't Hozan, and earlier thought. It is Tanaka. It looks very similar in Kuwahara design that laager posted. The KCNC part that thisisatest posted looks good as well.
I only have experience with the Tanaka and the Silca Pump Head Locking 40.0 head made by Silca. Be careful of the Silca one. It sucks. The lever is too flimsy and doesn't lock down well.
- Here is the Silca locking head...
Stay away from the Silca. It is garbage, it breaks within 3-4 uses. Just get one of these, and you'll be set for life!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/metanoize/6980268387/
metanoize wrote:bones wrote:Yeah, those are the type of pump heads I was talking about earlier in my first reply to this thread. I found the company that Excel imports theirs from. It wasn't Hozan, and earlier thought. It is Tanaka. It looks very similar in Kuwahara design that laager posted. The KCNC part that thisisatest posted looks good as well.
I only have experience with the Tanaka and the Silca Pump Head Locking 40.0 head made by Silca. Be careful of the Silca one. It sucks. The lever is too flimsy and doesn't lock down well.
- Here is the Silca locking head...
Stay away from the Silca. It is garbage, it breaks within 3-4 uses. Just get one of these, and you'll be set for life!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/metanoize/6980268387/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
would this peace Hirame (£40??) fit the Lezyne alloy floor pump?
metanoize wrote:WasFab wrote:would this peace Hirame (£40??) fit the Lezyne alloy floor pump?
Yep, it works fine, that's what I've done.
extremely expensive like another pump. Can u try to advice how it attaches to the pump head. From the picture I can't figure it out.
WasFab wrote:metanoize wrote:WasFab wrote:would this peace Hirame (£40??) fit the Lezyne alloy floor pump?
Yep, it works fine, that's what I've done.
extremely expensive like another pump. Can u try to advice how it attaches to the pump head. From the picture I can't figure it out.
The point is the you wont need another pump, and you'll stop looking for another pump. You'll need to get this too http://www.alexscycle.com/pump/other-en ... -band.html
I just picked up one of those Hirame heads. What type of pump is ideal for that? I plan to use this for deep wheels to get a good grip on short valves and avoid removing valve cores. It will stay in the car. Honestly, in this case the pump itself is less important than the interface to the valve, but I want one that's basic and reliable and has good ergonomics (IE, does not jab bare feet, stands well, long hose). I already have a few standard pumps and a compressor to use with normal wheels but those will stay in shop..
I was thinking about just grabbing the SIlca Pista but I noticed it has a pretty short hose. How is the Lezyne floor pump in terms of changing the head? Is the one it comes with removable?
I was thinking about just grabbing the SIlca Pista but I noticed it has a pretty short hose. How is the Lezyne floor pump in terms of changing the head? Is the one it comes with removable?
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We've used all of these on the track, where we're always in disc wheels and always at 160 psi plus pressures.
The old SIlcas pumps were OK, the new ones are junk. There are lots of decent pumps out there and it's mostly about whether you like the particular head fitting. Most of our riders found we liked the Specialized Air Comp Pro. It has a secure fitting, grabs a short section of valve stem when you have medium section rims with not much stem protruding, the gauge is large, well protected, and accurate, and you can add pressure and then bleed it off slightly to get to a precise pressure. However, we have riders on Topeaks, Parks, and others who like them as well. Only drawback on
The Lezynes with the screw-on mount have two limitations: Some valve stems don't have adequate threading to grab the pump head, and some cores will unthread when you unthread the pump head. It's a little slower but works ok. The whole pump is built really well. Gauges are a bit on the cheap side but seem to do just fine. And their alloy travel pump is really really nice for when you're on the road. Like with the rest of the pumps out there, it's hard to find a bad one -- you just have to pick one that works for you.
One additional issue is that there are a few inner tubes out there with slightly sub-sized diameter valve stems. Some pumps just don't want to grab them adequately. I just returned some tubes with that problem and hope it doesn't show up again. But be forewarned.
And get a pump with a lifetime warranty. When it gets knocked over and the gauge breaks or the hose cracks at the barb, you can simply replace it. Pumps lead a hard life and some but not all have lifetime warranties.
Now, ... pump heads. The Hirame was the original, made by a small machinist in small quantities for disc wheels on the track. Almost impossible to get spare parts, and you absolutely have to flip the lever loose before removing the head or you'll quickly destroy the o-ring inside. But the best mechanism and best seal.
The Tanaka followed, and then KNC came out with one as well and others have followed. All are OK and certainly better than the routine pump head. They vary in how tightly they fit into the hose on your pump but ultimately they all fit. You get compression fittings with a couple, and with most you just have a barb that you insert into the house and tighten down with a hose clamp. Either method works fine, though some thicker hoses don't fit into the compression fitting.
For most of these pumps you can do a few things to improve them. Almost all have standard gauge mechanisms inside. New ones cost $6-8 and are much better than the ones they come with. Second, some high pressure hose will be less prone to swelling when you pump, so your effort all goes into the tire. The aftermarket hose is much more durable as well. However, not all pumps have barb fittings or other convertible compression fittings.
That's my $0.02.
The old SIlcas pumps were OK, the new ones are junk. There are lots of decent pumps out there and it's mostly about whether you like the particular head fitting. Most of our riders found we liked the Specialized Air Comp Pro. It has a secure fitting, grabs a short section of valve stem when you have medium section rims with not much stem protruding, the gauge is large, well protected, and accurate, and you can add pressure and then bleed it off slightly to get to a precise pressure. However, we have riders on Topeaks, Parks, and others who like them as well. Only drawback on
The Lezynes with the screw-on mount have two limitations: Some valve stems don't have adequate threading to grab the pump head, and some cores will unthread when you unthread the pump head. It's a little slower but works ok. The whole pump is built really well. Gauges are a bit on the cheap side but seem to do just fine. And their alloy travel pump is really really nice for when you're on the road. Like with the rest of the pumps out there, it's hard to find a bad one -- you just have to pick one that works for you.
One additional issue is that there are a few inner tubes out there with slightly sub-sized diameter valve stems. Some pumps just don't want to grab them adequately. I just returned some tubes with that problem and hope it doesn't show up again. But be forewarned.
And get a pump with a lifetime warranty. When it gets knocked over and the gauge breaks or the hose cracks at the barb, you can simply replace it. Pumps lead a hard life and some but not all have lifetime warranties.
Now, ... pump heads. The Hirame was the original, made by a small machinist in small quantities for disc wheels on the track. Almost impossible to get spare parts, and you absolutely have to flip the lever loose before removing the head or you'll quickly destroy the o-ring inside. But the best mechanism and best seal.
The Tanaka followed, and then KNC came out with one as well and others have followed. All are OK and certainly better than the routine pump head. They vary in how tightly they fit into the hose on your pump but ultimately they all fit. You get compression fittings with a couple, and with most you just have a barb that you insert into the house and tighten down with a hose clamp. Either method works fine, though some thicker hoses don't fit into the compression fitting.
For most of these pumps you can do a few things to improve them. Almost all have standard gauge mechanisms inside. New ones cost $6-8 and are much better than the ones they come with. Second, some high pressure hose will be less prone to swelling when you pump, so your effort all goes into the tire. The aftermarket hose is much more durable as well. However, not all pumps have barb fittings or other convertible compression fittings.
That's my $0.02.
