I links pics. Regular and Mini. [Test report on page 3]

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BmanX
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by BmanX

I think the mini's will be great for running them through some aero bar extensions and trying to get tight corners to keep the housing out of the site of the wind.

Look forward to getting mine in the near future.
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ms6073
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by ms6073

I hope so, as I built up our time trial bikes with regular iLinks but found that with the internal cable runs some of which required sharp cable bends in a confined area, the iLinks were not ideal and could not make as tight a bend as the Nokons. For example the loop to the rear deraileur on our tt bikes is run internally down through the seat stay and requires a very tight radius turn to loop down and back to the rear deraileur.

Overall I have been really pleased with iLinks so much so that I even used them on my cyclocross bikes but I will say that cleaning mud out of the links can take a bit more time than traditional housing :lol:. Now if only those of us in the states could find a realiable source of the teflon inner liner. In my experience installing complete sets on 4 road bikes and 3 cross bikes (both DA 7800 & 7900), although I had more than enough extra iLinks from each bike to do nearly another complete bike, if you run the liner the full length of the shift cables, there was not enough inner liner for the remaining iLinks.
- Michael
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Bikey
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by Bikey

A table of cable housing weights that I found while researching this:

BRAKE:
Tune "plastic"5mm: 18g/m
Tune "plastic" 6mm : 21.5g/m
Alligator i-Links: 27g/m
Tune "Aluminum" : 37g/m
Nokon (Aluminium outer+Liner): 38,1g/m
Powercordz: 45g/m
Jagwire: 50g/m
Shimano: 53.0g/m
Gore Ride-on: 54g/m
Gore: 57g/m
Shimano XTR : 58.5g/m

SHIFT:
Gleitec U3 : 12.5g/m (not available anymore)
Alligator Mini i-Links(outer Aluminium+Liner): 15,5g/m
Tune "plastic": 18/m
Shimano SP81 Yumeya: 23g/m
Gore Ride-on light (without inner Liner!): 23g/m
Alligator i-Links (outer Aluminium+Liner): 27g/m
Jagwire: 32.0g/m
Shimano SIS : 34.0g/m
Nokon Carbon (Carbon outer+Liner): 35,1g/m
Transfil "flying snake": 36g/m
Nokon (Aluminium outer+Liner): 38,1g/m
Powercordz: 39g/m
Gore Ride-on: 54g/m

teleguy57
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by teleguy57

Anyone have the comparable weights for Campy brake and shift housings, and would there be a measurable different between the ultrashift and pre-ultra cabling?

jhamlin38
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by jhamlin38

I'm running i links on two bikes. The first bike, i installed them with little care about compressing them all before locking everything down. The second set I compressed every link before tightening them all down.
I can tell no noteable difference.
That said, I'm a very big fan of i-links. The supplier in the US couldn't be a nicer guy, or easier to deal with.
I believe they are worth the invenstment, they work great with my campy 08R10, and if i could shill harder for them, i would...

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Gearjunkie
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by Gearjunkie

Hey all. These sound interesting, thanks for the reviews.

How does the shift quality of the Mini's compare with Yokozuna?

jvanv8
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by jvanv8

I just received what I think are the same cables but the packaging simply says "iLink Ultralight Control Systems" and there is no mention of the word "Mini" in the packaging. However, they appeared to have the same specs as the photos here, all-in they came to about 77g for the shifter set (housing 180cm, liner, 2 cables, caps, connectors, stoppers) and look the same (my frame protectors shields are black, not orange though). Picked them up at DuLight, who apparently have listed them since July 09.

I just don't know if "iLink Mini" is the official product name or not... if it is, Alligator isn't doing a very good job of marketing the name on their packaging (or website).
So if you are coming up empty in your search for iLink mini's, it might be possible that you can find these cables under a different name.

Can anyone confirm the official name? Or is it just a new updated version of iLink shift cables.
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JN2Wheels
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by JN2Wheels

I've got a set of minis for shifting and regulars for brakes on the way from Ernie at procyclingdiscount.com. Fantastic guy to talk with. Answered questions and chatted nicely while directing me to his ebay store.

I will have my new frame built up over the w/e, so I'll post back on installation and use. I know Frankie is planning a full on review, so I'll just supplement with bits from my experience.

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Frankie - B
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by Frankie - B

All right, here we go!

Product: I-Links & Mini I-Links
Period in use: ~200 km
Pros: light, nice finish, Can make really tight turns, compression less
Cons: looks, first installation can be a handful

First impression:
Nice packaging, very neat and sturdy plastic bags that hold the products. Delivered very complete. The anodized finish is very neatly done when compared to Nokon. The liners are nice and the inner cables that come with the I-Links are nice as well. It is quite funny that the parts interlock so you need to make 'chains' of it. They disconnect quite easy to make the segments that go onto the bike. For the Mini I-Links goes all of the above, but they are not that easy to disconnect. As a matter of fact, they are bloody hard to get apart. they often don't split at the part where you want them to split.

Image

Installation:
Let's start of with the statement that I have mounted cables to a bike before. Both standard in a wide variety of brands as well as Nokons. The first time you install I-links make sure you have plenty of time on your hands as they will test you patience.
It is always of importance to cut your cables to the correct length, with standard cables you cut the cable, 'clean' the inner cable and put a ferrule on it. With Nokons you start with the liner, slide the beads on it till you find the correct length and the correct bend and then install.
With I-Links Alligator changed the game a bit. The segments are already connected to each other and you need to 'break' them at the right length and thread the liner through. Threading the liner can be a bit hard as it constantly runs into the shape of the inside of the beads. But, once you have found the right method things get easier.
When you are installing the I-Links compress them as hard as you can. This way they take the shape they will have once they are completely set up. I use an inner cable to compress the cables, this keeps one hand occupied while the other can still tweak things. If you forget this simple step you will end up with cables that are too short. You can shorten, or make the cables longer by taking beads off, or putting some on.
The Mini I-Links Are only to be used as gear cables. Not as brake cables. Because they are smaller then the normal I-Links you can make some crazy small bends. The Mini's have a radius of 2 cm's. That means that a fool loop of minis measures 4 cm's across. They are ideal for the bars that have weird bends or bars that are notorious for their bad shifting because of friction in the cables. You can also use a shorter cable for the rear mech as the loop can be much smaller.
Do not forget to put a drop of your favourite lube to make the inner cables sliiiiide through the liners.
The regular I-Links are easy to install and behave as expected. The Minis are hard to split, but the install is as easy as the regular ones.
The hardware that comes with the package do make the installation easy. There are ferrules that you can click onto the cables and that slide nicely into a cable stop. The tubes that catch the cable again are a bit on the long side, but you would only need to use one. The rubber pieces can be slid on to protect the frame.

Image

In use:
If the installation has gone well the first thing you notice is the boost in braking power, Shifting is also smoother and more direct. The extra braking power is caused by the (near) compression less housing. All the power that you apply to the lever goes directly into the brake. The same thing happens with your shifts and therefore causes the more direct feel.

Weight:
The most important factor for us is how the product scores on the scales. I have weighed everything and took a pic of the products on the scale. (take a good look at this scale, because a new more precise model is on order)
Total weight before installation:
I-Links complete (liner, links, and all extras): 71 gram
Mini I-Links compl. (liner, links, and all extras): 43 gram
Brake cables (inner): 38 gram
Shift cables (inner): 25 gram
Installation leftovers:
I-Links (liner, links, and all extras): 48 gram
Mini I-Links (liner, links, and all extras): 20 gram
weight per meter (outer cable and liner):
I-Links 27 gram
Mini I-Links 15,5 gram
Total weight before installation: 71 gr. + 43 gr. + 38 gr. + 25 gr. = 177 gr.
Installation leftovers: 48 gr. +20 gr. = 68 gr.
Total weight of cables: 177 gr. – 68 gr. = 109 gr.
109 gram is a very decent weight and puts the Alligator I-Links on a well deserved first spot in the modern light cable category. Alligator has set a benchmark with these cable systems. The weights per meter are proof of that. Perfect!

ImageImageImageImage ImageImage

Conclusion:
Alligator created a new benchmark on the cable market. It is quite time consuming, but easy on the first install but once set up right it is a great product!
Now it is up to the competition to make an even lighter and better system.
The looks of the outers will not be of every bodies likings, but that is the only concession you have to make to ride with the lightest modern cables.
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ms6073
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by ms6073

Another + for procyclingdiscount.com - ordered 2-sets from the ebay store this morning and since we are located in the same city, I should have them in a a couple days. Having spent way to much time crawling under the wife's Volvo last weekend, I can hardly wait to install a couple more sets of Alligator iLinks. Hopefully the rubber bumpers are now black instead of orange as was the case with the orginal iLink cablesets.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

BmanX
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by BmanX

Just placed a big order with Ernie and in that order was a set of mini and reg I-links to be sent out today. Not sure what build to run them on at this time. They lend themselves to the TT build better than that SLC but on the same note, they will make the SLC much nicer and lighter.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
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Gearjunkie
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by Gearjunkie

Great review, thanks Frankie! :thumbup:

I'm pretty tempted by these but am loath to part with my current tried and trusted best shifting with my Yokozuna shift cables on my Red (not so wedded to the Yokozuna brake cables - too stiff (affects brake adjustment) without noticeable benefit).

So 2 questions:

1. Have you used Yokozuna shift cables and if so how do they compare to the Mini links.

2. Presumably you are installing the I-links under your bar tape? How does that feel?

Thanks again!

GJ

mrfish
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by mrfish

Another great post Frankie. A few questions:

1) From previous posts there was some talk of heating the inner liner over a flame then cutting it and squashing the end. Is that necessary to fix the end of the inner liner, or should you cut inner liner where the cable ends? Or should you leave it longer? What's best? Why?

2) I heard previously that enough i-links come in one packet to do two bikes. Is this true? On a standard road bike would you need additional ferrules etc?

3) How would i-links work on a bike with a full-length rear brake cable (my C40)? My guess is that it wouldn't be so good as the i-links would rattle in the cable guides. Thoughts?

4) Why is it that the minis are not to be used for braking? On my old TT bike I ended up using gear cables for brakes. Seemed to work OK. My fingers are not strong enough to stretch 1mm square steel cables!

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Frankie - B
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by Frankie - B

Gearjunkie wrote:Great review, thanks Frankie! :thumbup:

So 2 questions:

1. Have you used Yokozuna shift cables and if so how do they compare to the Mini links.

2. Presumably you are installing the I-links under your bar tape? How does that feel?

Thanks again!

GJ


Thanks Gearjunkie!
To answer your questions:
  • No, I have not used Yokozuna's and therefore I can not comment on them.
  • The I-links are indeed under the bartape. When inspecting the tape on the touch one can feel the little humps and bumps of the cables, but when riding you do not notice that.
  • (this can depend on the bartape that one is using. I can only assume that when using thinner tapes like fizik this is more apparent. The beads are in a place where your hand doesn't rest, so all in all i think it won't be annoying)

mrfish wrote:Another great post Frankie. A few questions:

1) From previous posts there was some talk of heating the inner liner over a flame then cutting it and squashing the end. Is that necessary to fix the end of the inner liner, or should you cut inner liner where the cable ends? Or should you leave it longer? What's best? Why?

2) I heard previously that enough i-links come in one packet to do two bikes. Is this true? On a standard road bike would you need additional ferrules etc?

3) How would i-links work on a bike with a full-length rear brake cable (my C40)? My guess is that it wouldn't be so good as the i-links would rattle in the cable guides. Thoughts?

4) Why is it that the minis are not to be used for braking? On my old TT bike I ended up using gear cables for brakes. Seemed to work OK. My fingers are not strong enough to stretch 1mm square steel cables!


Thanks mrfish!

  • On my installation I didn't heat and squash the end of the liner as most of the time the liner is held in place by friction. However I saw that the liner on the rear der. loop had moved a bit so I might need to do that afterall. I'll keep riding it like this for now and check back later and report on it. (makes note in calendar for two weeks from now.)
  • No, in one package is enough to do one bike. you will have enough spares to make another fancy loop or create a necklace for your wife or girlfriend. The package comes with an stupid amount of ferrules and other parts. you don't need as many.
    For the front brake I didn't use any additional hardwear. just the I-links and liner from the lever to the brake. On the rear brake I used two cable stop adapter thingies. one for ech cable stop. and the end of the I-links just went into the brake.
    For the front derailleur cable I used one of them cable stop adapter thingies. And for the rear derailleur I used two of them cable stop adapter thingies and one ferrule. The ferrule went into the cable stop at the chainstay and I added a cablestop adapter thingie to the links that went into the rear derailleur.
  • In your bike with full length rear brake housing they would boost your brakepower. I'm interested to know if they would fit into the guide. Also, I'm not shure about the rattle as they might fit snugly in there. This is a thing that you need to find out.
  • Not completely comparable as the products use a different material, but do you remember the topic about the breaking carbon Nokons? They probably broke because they couldn't handle the stress put on them. I think it is the same with these Minis. They are so small and the material is so thin that it probably can not handle the peak loads put onto them that braking inflicts. I have used shift inner cables for braking without any problem as well, but I'm not going to be the test lemming for this as it seems to fragile.

[edit for adding this pic]
Image
'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'
If you want to see 'meh' content of me and my bike you can follow my life in pictures here!

lovinmylab
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by lovinmylab

Any reason why these could not be used on my future Di2 build?

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