I know your first reaction will be 'warranty'. Problem is, it's a 2006 frame which I bought second hand so there is no warranty. I've read that this has happened before with 2006 frames so it's certainly not an isolated incident.
Thing is, it's still a decent frame and I don't want it to become wall art. What do you reckon my chances are like if I attempt to re-bond the alloy shell into the frame with epoxy resin? Anyone tried this?
If I'm going to glue it in with epoxy glue, can I coat the BB threads in vaseline to prevent glue from bonded to them if there's any mess? Would that work?
Thanks for the advice.
Get hold of a thinner low viscocity epoxy if possible, otherwise you will struggle to get a layer of adhesive between the shell and frame.
Prepare the threaded shell and frame as described by latman.
Apply some grease to the threaded shell threads and fit the bottom bracket to it.
Now fit the bottom bracket and chainset to the frame (don't put the chain on).
Fitting the chainset should help hold everything together nicely.
Keep frame indoors for at least 24hours as the warm temperatures will help it cure. Do not ride for at least 24 hours - or as indicated by adhesive manufacturer.
Dura Ace, Campagnolo Record and SRAM Cufflinks
In my head, I can't imagine it being too difficult but I bet it'll be a total pain.
Ideally, Look will get in touch and say 'no problem, we'll send you out a replacement', but that's not going to happen.
Nick Crumpton will pop in and tell you what Epoxy might work best...
Soapy water. cleanser, and brush/sponge
80-100 grit paper
lint free rags
thixotropic structural epoxy(high peel and sheer), 2k such as
mixing/spreading tools(tongue depressing sticks)
clean cardboard to mix epoxy on
NOT thin runny stuff. not 5min hardware store crap.
Is this a face mounted shell or ID/OD? in other words, where was the glue, on the OD of the alu and ID of the carbon or did the alu have a flange with glue on the faces?
remove all parts
thoroughly clean, degrease alu and BB area of frame with soap, water
thoroughly clean all surfaces with acetone
sand away all remnants of the old glue
insure parts mate easily in a twisting action, no hangups
confirm a min .005"ish/max .010"ish bond gap on the radii
sand once more, all mating surfaces with the 80/100 paper, do not over sand to deformation
thoroughly clean all surfaces with acetone once more
allow to fully dry but your bonding window is under 1hr and lower in hi humidity
mix epoxy per data sheet
using sticks, apply and even thin coat to all surfaces
twist together slowly, pausing to use clean sticks to clear away excess epoxy piling up at each end
once all together, use acetone on rags to clean away the excess including the threads. use a q-tip if needed.
do not try and grease the threads first, if you muck it up you may contaminate your bond
be advised the acetone may cause some blushing or softening of the clear coat in that area, test it first.
leaving crank or BB parts in the shell will make this a very difficult job. and frame builders will laugh at you if you do.
It is probably repairable, but if you do not have extensive experience with this sort of thing DO NOT TRY IT YOURSELF.
Try to get a warranty deal worked out; if that isn't successful, send it to Calfee or someone with experience. You are only going to create heartache for yourself and end up messing up the surfaces so that it cannot be repaired.
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