Is the problem only on the drive-side, or worse on the drive-side than the non-drive-side? If so, it would give some credence to thisisatest's theory applying in this case.thisisatest wrote:Chain lube. I find it on rear rims all the time. it gets flung off when riding. Solution is less lube/more wiping.
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It's possible you simply had dirt attach to the rear rim because of a little lube there, but I still think that's improbable.
You say you ride dirt roads. So you also ride irregularities quite a bit, right? Rocks, lumps, etc.? I rather suspect you are twisting the glue joint loose intermittently, it reseals, but captures a little dirt. That glue joint does separate and rejoin quite a bit, and it can happen predominantly on the rear wheel -- it happens all the time on the track where riders are turning or sprinting on banking and the force of the banking is pulling the glue joint loose, it happens on the edge of a cobble where rider weight plus accelerations focus too much power on a short section of gluing. I've seen it happen with powerful road sprinters. And it happens more with lower tire pressures because it's easier to pull the tire loose. When this happens, it's quite possible that you gradually add dirt to the exposed glue -- it'll be more on the edges than in the center, but if the dirt does show up more than just exclusively on the exposed outside surfaces of the glue joint, that's just what I'd expect. It will happen somewhat as you go into the depths of the tire bed, and be largely absent by the time you get to the center. Is that what you had?
This problem gets exacerbated by a couple things as well. First, sometimes your Mastik One gets too old and separates (and they had a bad run for a year or two that separated prematurely). At that point it doesn't glue properly and this kind of transient separation occurs much more rapidly. Second, it's that time of year when your wheels might be close to heaters or in a dry environment; the glue can dry out and allow this kind of thing to happen much more. I find these both happen from time to time; they're unpredictable, but are indications that you may need to remove tires, clean, and remount tires with new rim cement. And they definitely can crud up a glue job, and yes, they tend to do so more on the rear simply because the rear tire, for various reasons, gets pulled loose more.
I wouldn't blame chain lube.
problably I`ll clean the rim and re-glue it.later I let know how it turn.
It doesn't seem my tire will really contact that part.
Second, I've been reading conflicting reports. I'm sure I'll get glue on the outside of the carbon, brake track etc.. Safe to use good off?
How to compare a 1 mm tyre width difference?
I've used both and the only sound advice I can give is to match tyre width so it's close to or slightly exceeds the width of the rim bed.
Other than that I think the exercise of Veloflex going for 23mm iso their traditional 22mm is a pretty pointless one.
All in all I can't say I notice any difference so pick the one that suits the width of your rim best. Being on Campa Bora or Hyperons most of the time I run Extreme/Sprinter up front and/or Carbon/Criterium or Roubaix/Arenberg on the rear.
On Bora/Hyperon and on a mere speed/weight basis, the Record/front Servizio Corse/rear combo is still their fastest offering IME.
canbakay wrote:has anyone used both the 22 and the 23 mm veloflex carbon and can make a comparison?
I've used both and for me I defintely prefer the 23's as a minimum. The 24mm Roubaixs are nice too.
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