spookyload wrote:I agree. I use it on my cross rig and it works great. I used a traditional topcap/compression cap to set it up initially, then used the Ringo star to readjust it after the first few rides. The top cap is feather weight and can't be beat for the price. I use the top caps on all my bikes once I have the preload set.
I second spookyload's post. I've use the Ring-go-star for over 12 months with no problems. Even on a mtb off-road with rigid forks.
You can even go one step further a use a traditional set-up to pre-load the stem then use the stem to take the load. Remove the traditional set-up and the stem takes the load. You just need a top cap to cover the steerer tube.
Tippster wrote:You can even go one step further a use a traditional set-up to pre-load the stem then use the stem to take the load. Remove the traditional set-up and the stem takes the load. You just need a top cap to cover the steerer tube.
The only problem with that setup is that it will not be possible for you to adjust headset preload if you crash and the stem turn on the steerer tube.
Otherwise I agree 100% and that's exactly how I'm going to setup my Principia Revolution, with a Schmolke top cap.
Principia Revolution on road & Rivette H6 off road!
What do you put in your stearer to tighten your stem, or do you you use less torque now that it doesn't hold the preset?
If the steerer is of the alloy/carbon type you can use a starnut and topcap + screw to set the load on the bearing cups.
Once you've done that and the stem is alligned and it's bolts torqued properly there's no need to keep the starnut, tightening bolt and topcap in place although I'd leave the starnut as is.
So the bolt and topcap can go, you replace the topcap with a lightweight one with no hole in it that you can pressfit into the top of the steerer tube or use something like the USE affair which still allows for some fine adjustments from what I understand.
If the steerer is of the full carbon type, a compression device is used that sets itself firmly against the sidewall of the steerer by means of expansion against which the load on the bearings is set in a similar way as the starnut/bolt/topcap combo used for the alloy/carbon types.
Anything after that remains the same as described above.
So, in essence, after the preload on the bearings is set by either one of these systems it is the stem's tightened down bolts and, if any, the spacers underneath that keep it in place and loaded down evenly.
You'll only need to redo the whole ritual should you want to change the fork, regrease the headset bearings or should you want to replace the headset itself for instance.
Only thing is the top cap is still not 100% tight and will rattle - it seems a little hopeful of USE for them to design a top cap held in by a rubber washer that should then fit so firmly in the steerer of all forks that it'll never move a little ?
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