AX Morpheus Crankset
Moderator: robbosmans
Nice! Gorgeous collection you have. You should put those in the Gallery section.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I live on Potrero....
- HammerTime2
- Posts: 5814
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 4:43 pm
- Location: Wherever there's a mountain beckoning to be climbed
Hey, you two. Get a room.
Now, back to topic. Any bets on when Gum will actually get his crank? Will he get an EE crank first? Or maybe an M5, which reached volume production over 48 months ago, or at least it was supposed to as of a few months prior. Then again, some models of Morpheus have actually been delivered to end customers.
Now, back to topic. Any bets on when Gum will actually get his crank? Will he get an EE crank first? Or maybe an M5, which reached volume production over 48 months ago, or at least it was supposed to as of a few months prior. Then again, some models of Morpheus have actually been delivered to end customers.
-
- Posts: 3496
- Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:47 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh
Lol I actually just got an email from Craig at EE. The bb30 won't make it out this year, even though the design is done. So I'll wait til march for the Morpheus. If it doesn't show, I'll get the clavicula.
For those with an English bb, the EE should be out this year.
For those with an English bb, the EE should be out this year.
Last edited by gumgardner on Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I'm pretty happy with it so far but all I have it to compare to is Campy...I can't make a THM comparison. Finish is very nice. I have a lot of AX stuff on my bike and this isn't nearly as fragile feeling as some of the other components. Keeping in mind of course crank vs stem/etc....
-
- Posts: 3496
- Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:47 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh
For those of us with different length legs...Is anyone using two different crank lengths at the same time?
I think the prevailing recommendation is to address leg length differences at the cleat rather than the crank. At the crank, you end up with each leg with a different mechanical advantage. I don't know how important that is.
- carbon2329
- Posts: 753
- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 1:13 am
- Location: Utah
Has anyone seen an instruction manuel for the crankset. I have a crankset, but it did not come with a manuel and the website doesn't have one either.
Nils emailed instructions, but they were basic, without torque spec.
I emailed AX. If I get a response I will post.
Does anyone else find it curious that a product, like a crankset, is being sold to consumers, yet the company has not produced a instruction manuel?
Nils emailed instructions, but they were basic, without torque spec.
I emailed AX. If I get a response I will post.
Does anyone else find it curious that a product, like a crankset, is being sold to consumers, yet the company has not produced a instruction manuel?
- dadoflam08
- Posts: 951
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 11:25 am
- Location: Southern Great Southern Land
Clean your frame’s bottom bracket thread.
Gently lube the thread of the bearing cups and/or the thread.
Screw in the bearing cups into your frame: please note the left cup has a right-hand thread, the right cup a left-hand thread (standard BSA configuration)
Use the supplied tool to tighten the cups into your frame with a torque of ca. 40Nm.
Gently lube the inner race of the bearing and/or bearing seats of the alu spindle.
Push the spindle into the bottom bearing (cups) from the driveside, that way that the stop on the axle is to be found on the right side/outside, so that it will sit against the right bearing once installed properly.
Bolt on the right side crank arm (the one with the spider) onto the spindle. Both crank arms come with integrated extractor bolts, so it is sufficient to tighten these mildly hand-tight.
Install the shaft washer onto the open left-side end of the spindle so that it will sit against the left side bearing.
Bolt on the left side crank arm in opposite / 180 degree orientation to the left arm. Here as well tighten the fixing bolt mildly hand-tight.
Install the pedal insert(s) from the inner side of the crank arm. The pedal insert with center hole drilling will allow for a crank length of 172.5mm; the one with eccentric drilling for 170 / 175mm crank length (170mm when the eccentric hole is directed towards the crank fixing bolt, 175mm when directed away from the crank fixing bolt) The pedal inserts can be pressed in by hand and do not require glue or grease to go with them. The left side insert has a left-hand thread; the ride side insert a right-hand thread.
Use the pedal insert washer on the outside of the crank arm and screw in your pedals. Use a maximum of 20Nm when tightening the pedals.
Go for a ride!
I found these instructions Ok to work with - as supplied by Nils. I agree that some written instructions would be good but I wasn't going to wait around for them before fitting the cranks given how long they took to arrive in the first place.
Gently lube the thread of the bearing cups and/or the thread.
Screw in the bearing cups into your frame: please note the left cup has a right-hand thread, the right cup a left-hand thread (standard BSA configuration)
Use the supplied tool to tighten the cups into your frame with a torque of ca. 40Nm.
Gently lube the inner race of the bearing and/or bearing seats of the alu spindle.
Push the spindle into the bottom bearing (cups) from the driveside, that way that the stop on the axle is to be found on the right side/outside, so that it will sit against the right bearing once installed properly.
Bolt on the right side crank arm (the one with the spider) onto the spindle. Both crank arms come with integrated extractor bolts, so it is sufficient to tighten these mildly hand-tight.
Install the shaft washer onto the open left-side end of the spindle so that it will sit against the left side bearing.
Bolt on the left side crank arm in opposite / 180 degree orientation to the left arm. Here as well tighten the fixing bolt mildly hand-tight.
Install the pedal insert(s) from the inner side of the crank arm. The pedal insert with center hole drilling will allow for a crank length of 172.5mm; the one with eccentric drilling for 170 / 175mm crank length (170mm when the eccentric hole is directed towards the crank fixing bolt, 175mm when directed away from the crank fixing bolt) The pedal inserts can be pressed in by hand and do not require glue or grease to go with them. The left side insert has a left-hand thread; the ride side insert a right-hand thread.
Use the pedal insert washer on the outside of the crank arm and screw in your pedals. Use a maximum of 20Nm when tightening the pedals.
Go for a ride!
I found these instructions Ok to work with - as supplied by Nils. I agree that some written instructions would be good but I wasn't going to wait around for them before fitting the cranks given how long they took to arrive in the first place.
'83 De Rosa+'11 Baum Corretto+'08 BMC Pro Machine >6kg+'86 Pinarello Team +'72 Cinelli SC +'58 Bianchi+'71 Cinelli SC+'78 Masi GC+'83 La Redoute Motobecane+'94 Banesto Pegoretti+'88 Bianchi X4 +'48 Super Elliott+'99 Look Kg281+'18 Pegoretti
-
- Posts: 3496
- Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:47 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh
Is the THM bb30 adapter working with the Morpheus?
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com