SRAM Red Rear Derailleur Tuning

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
dereksmalls
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by dereksmalls

No

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andreszucs
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by andreszucs

here is my recent tuning, not that is a big deal..comparing to others here, it's also cheating a little since I took the barrel adjuster off...will be paired with a xx gripshifter on a MTB. Image

stevec1975
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by stevec1975

Been reading through this thread (and other places on the internet)

Long story short, I scratched up my Sram Red 2013 (Not Red 22, but newer version than the original red) rear derailleur in a high speed race crash, i.e. it slid along the tarmac for a bit, but is otherwise good/structurally sound.

I already had Rothshek Carbon Pulleys installed, which bought the weight down to 131, as it the main body is scratched anyway, I think it is the catalyst to remove the scratches and make it look cooler and lighter with a bit of dremelling, other than that, I have a few questions:

Cable Adjuster:
• Are there any decent lightweight cable adjusters available? Can’t see any on Toronto cycles that fit
• Has anyone removed the plastic outer bit of the adjuster and just left the metal bit? Did it go out of adjustment easily?
• What is the thread size? Skiffy.com are doing polycarbonate M8 bolts which might work, I saw a few pages back someone had tried, any further feedback?

Main pivot bolt:
• I have seen a few that have had replacement pivot bolts? Where do people source them from as I can’t find any
• How do you remove it?
• I am aiming for a Black one, if I can remove it, might just spray it black if no replacements can be sourced

B-Tension/Hi-Lo Adjust Bolts:
• I know Nylon is the lightest, but a good source of M4 with Allen heads in black is proving difficult to find.

Cages:
• Inner cage, I know Fibre lyte do the ultralight version which fits, but has anyone just sanded down the original sram red? I could get that sub 5g I reckon.
• Oute rcage, how do you remove it so I can sand of the Sram lettering (I want to keep the red highlight at the bottom though!)

kevosinn
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by kevosinn

Mine is sitting at 112 grams with stock cages tuned. I'll post a pic
Www.crypticcycles.com Custom carbon frames, bar/stem combos, repair and component tuning.

stevec1975
Posts: 253
Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:37 pm

by stevec1975

So I didn't go down the route of modifying the mech massively, just some dremeling to get rid of scratches, polishing and a bit of painting, results below, weight was 131.2 Grams with Carbon Pulleys.

Before (As a result of a Race crash):
Image

After:
Image

drainyoo
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Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:56 pm

by drainyoo

bigpab wrote:Nice work
How would u compare the fibrelyte jockey wheels to sram stock ones?
i ordered the kcnc,out of looks really,ceramic they are but I'm having second thoughts,as most ppl seems to think they're actually not so good.


I've done 600 miles on the FL wheels, and they've held up great and are still silent and smooth.

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prendrefeu
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by prendrefeu

Does anyone have experience in removing the pivot pins from the Aeroglide style rear derailleur (2012-present, I think... maybe 2013- ) ?
They're single direction inserted and the end is capped. They're also steel. :evil:

On the famous tuning by FastDad and Colaweizen (?), the pins were removed and replaced, but I haven't heard back from FastDad on how that was done.
Replacing isn't the problem, removal is.
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xena
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by xena

Yes I know how. Its quite easy not to bad.
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theremery
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by theremery

Mine was an earlier one but i just drilled a TINY hole and punched the pin out using the drill bit. It was pretty easy!
Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!

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prendrefeu
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by prendrefeu

Yep, that method works on the earlier versions. The aeroglide version of the derailleur has the pin going in one direction into the body: one end has a black cap on it, the other end of the pin is not visible, it is blocked by a part of the body. So I'm thinking I'll either tap into it, screw and pull out... or just drill it out all the way through. The former may be the best option.
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prendrefeu
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by prendrefeu

The pivot pins are steel (default) - and I'm wondering about what other alternatives would work. It seems like the pivot pins just have to be resistant to deflection as that may be the only type of force that they see through use.

So would a carbon (fiber) rod work as a replacement?
Or titanium?
I imagine aluminum would be too soft (too prone to deflection)...

Thoughts?
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Marin
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by Marin

Steel can usually be replaced with titanium I'd say. Savings will be very small for the effort though.

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prendrefeu
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by prendrefeu

That is true. I'm working on one that I have as a spare, just seeing what I can do with it mixing handwork, sourcing, and purchased parts. I want to see if I can take it apart completely and in that process the steel ones will be destroyed, might as well replace with Titanium when it comes to re-assembly, no?
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expatscot
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by expatscot

Hi

I'm looking to do some basic tuning for my 10spd SRAM Red front and rear mechs.

At the moment they are stock, and I'm mid-build for a weenie CX-er.

I'm looking to do the following basic tuning, before getting too adventurous:

- M5 alu cable pinch bolts & washer (f&r)
- front mech Speen top-pull adaptor: replace the bolt with M5 alu
- H/L limit screws (f&r) in alu (M4 ?)
- rear barrel adjustor in alu (M5 drilled ?)
- front cage end screw (M5 (?) alu, dome head)
- jockey wheel pivot bolts top and bottom in alu (not sure if M5 for both)
- replacement lightweight jockey wheels (not sure which mfr & tooth number)
- rear mech back plate carbon

I have 4 bikes with identical kit (Look 695, P2, Trek 5500 and the Boardman CXR) - I want to ideally sort all of them out.

So:

1. any suggestions for supplier? There's lots on eBay, but I've not dealt with any of the ones on the list
2. limit screws. Are these M4? What's the length?
3. Jockey pivots - are they the same size? What's the bore and length?
4. what's the recommended jockey wheel replacements?
5. what am I missing (other than demelling, which is phase 2 of this project)?


I know the obvious answer would be to actually dismantle the mechs, but I am several hundred miles away from home and not back for a good few days. It would be great if I could get the sizing (and possible sourcing), so I can order these ready for when I'm home.

Thanks!
Look 695 aerolight
Cervelo P2
Brompton S2 LX titanium custom
Trek 5500 1994
Boardman CX9.8 build in progress

and lots of non- WW others.

chris14
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by chris14

prendrefeu wrote:Does anyone have experience in removing the pivot pins from the Aeroglide style rear derailleur (2012-present, I think... maybe 2013- ) ?
They're single direction inserted and the end is capped. They're also steel. :evil:

On the famous tuning by FastDad and Colaweizen (?), the pins were removed and replaced, but I haven't heard back from FastDad on how that was done.
Replacing isn't the problem, removal is.



Hi everyone, great thread, I love this sort of stuff! first post :shock: here goes:

I have removed all the pins to sand all the parts from my red rear derailleur in the past.
I made a tool from an old screwdriver. I filled the tip in the center to create a half circle which is the diameter of the pivot pins, I then found that with the tool I was able to prise the pin out. I had to go carefully around the pin as if you just force it on one action, the head of the pin which is flat is very thin and buckles and you lose your take on it Just go slowly and it will come out. I found this on another site. I found it really almost impossible to remove the pin perfectly and always ended up mangling the head, however if your going to change them this is not a problem!

Hope this helps.

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