Powertap PRO+ bearings rough

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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by Butcher

FredBloggs wrote:For all you Powertap Pro Hub owners note the following, ignore at your cost!

Based upon the manufacturers sizing chart that comes with the Hub, the replacement bearing sizes are specifically listed as 6901. However, when the Hub was stripped down the installed bearings were of 6902 type.

So, i know have 4x Enduro Zero Grade 3 Ceramic 6901 Sealed Cartridge Bearings sat on the shelf gathering dust. Any takers :-(


Before this blanket statement goes too far, the 15mm axle takes the 6902 and the 12mm axle takes the 6901. Check your axle before you buy the bearings. My owners manual mentions that.

Then, the Campagnolo freehubs take different bearings than the Shimano freehub bearings.

by Weenie

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by Rob81

anyone so kind to explain to me how to change the 2 freehub bearings? Shimano type, 15mm axle

neverminf d I figuerd it out wihth a skewer used as press and extractor :beerchug:

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by rruff

How did you use a skewer to extract?

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by mtnbkr

For the freehub body, does the inner bearing (closer to spokes) seat all the way down into the freehub body or does it just go enough to get that set screw in? Does the set screw actually block the bearing from coming out or what purpose does it serve?? Just trying to understand as much as I can before I open it all up.

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by mtnbkr

mtnbkr wrote:For the freehub body, does the inner bearing (closer to spokes) seat all the way down into the freehub body or does it just go enough to get that set screw in? Does the set screw actually block the bearing from coming out or what purpose does it serve?? Just trying to understand as much as I can before I open it all up.

Any help on this?

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by dhendriksen

After reading this I am SLIGHTLY CONFUSED. I'm going to replace the bearings in my Powertap. It is one that I bought early last year...the model BELOW the SL+...I can't remember whether it's Elite+ or Pro+...whichever one is below the SL+.

I have a Campagnolo freehub, but I replaced the freehub in October so I am guessing it's fine? Should I replace them all?

Anyways...I am thinking I need 4 6902 bearings...is that correct? I'm looking at buying 4 of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BB ... e=&seller=

Is that everything I need? Will that replace the bearings in the freehub as well (if I should)?

Thanks in advance.

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by ratdog

The bearings will be easily sourced from your local bearing supplier. Pull ut the old ones, take them to the bearing place and 2 minutes later you will have them in your hand for about $15.

These bearings aren't anything special. Buy a pack of 10 and save yourself the time for next time they fail or you feel you want to get your hands dirty again.

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by WMW

dhendriksen wrote:Anyways...I am thinking I need 4 6902 bearings...is that correct?

I'm not sure what you have in the freehub (probably 6802), but you can pull the freehub off without tools and look. If you can spin them on your finger and they feel smooth, then leave them be.

The main hub body has a 6902 on the DS, and a 6802 on the NDS. The 6802 is the only one that usually goes bad.

If you don't know what you are doing, I wouldn't suggest doing this yourself.
formerly rruff...

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by BoerLowie

My PowerTap Pro+ is still spinning smooth since i changed them to SKF. Going strong for 2+ years now and still holding up!

Changing them was definately worth it!
Keep on going!

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by Rick

Just for the record: I replaced the both hub body bearings in my SL+
It was quite easy.

The Outer Non-drive-side bearing is a 6802. It was the only one that was really "bad". I knocked it out and pressed in a new one using the technique shown in the youtube video. It was a little harder to knock out than shown in the video. I had to hit it pretty hard before it moved at all, but then it popped right out.

I also replaced the drive-side bearing. It is a 6902. Just turn the axle around and knock it out the same way you knock out the non-drive side. When it came time to press the new bearing in, I had to futz around quite a bit with the axle, freehub, and a few different sizes of sockets to get the right combination of diameters and lengths to pull the bearing into place, using a similar technique as was used on the non-drive side (and was shown in the video). I don't think I can describe exactly how I ended up doing it because it was all trial and error (mostly error).
In both cases, I used the old bearing as the "pressing mandrel" to press against the new bearing when driving it into place.

In the end, it all went together quite easily though.

I didn't replace the bearings in the freehub, because they still feel very smooth. I did buy the two more 6902 bearings just in case I need to in the future.

I got all the bearings from neuvation cycling. I have some of their hubs, and the bearings on those have remained glassy smooth for years, so I figured they carry good bearings. The 6802 actually came in an "enduro bearings" box.

Afterwards, the powertap works fine, calibrates the same, and the wheel spins with glassy perfection. :thumbup:

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by tom_h

I have a 2010 Elite+ hub, and it is the version with 15mm steel axle and steel Campy freehub. Hub is about 2 yrs and 10,000 miles old.

Did any of you hear any noises when the bearings went bad?

I recently started hearing a low-pitched squealing sound, and it seems to be coming from the hub. It is not like the typical higher-pitched squeak from the derailler cage pulleys. I notice sound when I am pedaling on the road, or on a trainer. Above 20mph, wind & road noise drowns out the sound.

I've partially disassembled the hub, removing freehub & endcaps. The main axle bearings turn very smoothly, by hand. The Campy freehub bearings feel very slightly "grabby" when I stick finger inside and turn -- but hard to believe that small amount of "grab" could create the sound I'm hearing.

Ordinarily I'd just replace the freehub bearings, but am reluctant to spend some $45 on a "blind hole bearing puller" set ( eg, see: http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole ... 95987.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ).

I was able to gently tap out the Campy freehub bearings, using deep socket wrenches to fully engage the bearing and apply force evenly. ( I have a very complete set of shallow & deep sockets to seelct from).

Once removed, the freehub bearings were very smooth! Any roughness I was feeling, was because the outermost bearing was installed too far in, and the hollow spacer tube between the 2 bearings was apparently applying too much lateral preload.

Reinstalled old bearings, using a 5/16" x 3.5" grade-8 nut & bolt as a poor man's bearing press. Various socket wrenches were able to act as the "drift". I kept the hollow spacer axially centered, using another socket wrench as a dummy "axle". Light film of SAE 80 oil was applied to all contact surfaces before pressing the bearings.

The outermost freehub bearing was not pressed as deeply in as factory original. Snug enough to hold the hollow spacer in place, but turns much smoother.

Regardless, this doesn't seem to have been the source of the noise, so I'll have to keep looking for that!

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by durianrider

I got my power tap PRO+ in Australia and support here is crap for em IMHE. On a trip to the US last year I brought my wheel with me and booked it in for a treatment. They put full new stronger steel cassette body on + electrics + bearings + cap + axle. Essentially a brand new hub for 300$.

EXCELLENT customer service from SARIS USA. Why is all the good service usually in the USA/UK? lol!
My YT channel
http://www.youtube.com/user/durianriders?feature=mhee" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Follow me on Strava

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