What i found that worked best on mine is to make a little mark on each spoke right above the nipple (with a black sharpie if you have silver spokes or a sliver paint marker if you have black spokes.) Then you can watch the spoke twist as you turn the nipple with a spoke wrench and you know how much your turning of the nipple contributed to spoke windup and how much actually tightened or loosened the spoke. Then you can "unwind" the spoke after you have tightened or loosened it the proper amount.
I think I got that from a Barnette book.
If grippping the spoke is a problem, use a screw driver after removing the tyre and rim strip.
Use a wheel truing stand for best results (particularly for vertical symetricy).
I'd be interested to know how you go.
bikenerd wrote:I recently bought a pair a AC350 wheels, through ebay but new in the box. They weren't perfectly true when I got them, and after a couple of rides they were a little worse. Now I'm trying to true them, and they're all over the place. Any tips or advice?
Same thing happened to me, so I took it to the LBS to have them true it. But after a few rides the front came untrue again. So I'll be taking it back to true once more. If it comes untrue AGAIN I'm going to have them re-lace the wheel to a stronger spoke pattern. I don't think that the LBS employees are incompetant, I just think that these wheels are just not sturdy enough - a penalty for such light weight. Note: Only the front rim is giving me problems, rear is fine.
Since I 'know' my wheels I use grease on aluminum nipples to avoid seizing - works best for me in the past 17 years.
Of course YMMV but that has just been my experience.
"Ride lots." -- Eddy Merckx
Click Here to see my Scott CR1.
I had no trouble even though I used aluminum nipples since I used Spline Drives. I also lubricated with a special extreme pressure lube. Its NOT a grease but a dry film lube and as such, can be messy.
To this lube I added another friction modifier that can be "softened" to reduce friction even more. In its normal state, it acts better than the spoke freeze because it increases friction above the dry film lubricant.
Yes, I had some wind up but soon learned the permanent marker trick.
After 2 sets of tires (Conti SS and GP3k's), wheels are fine true. Tension is nearly EQUAL statically and increases about 10% on maximum windup torque. There is a slight bias at the end of the windup but the drive side spokes are actually lower stressed than the non-drive for all except my weight (165 lb)on a 175 mm crank pulling a 39 tooth in the front and a 25 on the rear.
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