Campag SR wireless brakes

[wilwil]

Any users struggling with the brakes? I cannot achieve enough clearance with my front brake. On the Campag website it says this:
Piston-calliper connector: the return action of the pistons is now optimised, rapidly returning the pads to their position and thus ensuring an overall clearance between pad and disc of 0.4-0.8 mm, with no risk of accidental contact.

I wish this was true. I've spent hours trying to get enough clearance to prevent rub. Back brake is okay.

[joeyb1000]

My experience was the opposite (and the same for my friend with EPS disc). It was my first attempt at disc, and I was surprised at how easy it was; and it has never rubbed.

You might want to find a shop with the tool to face the mounts on the fork.

[wilwil]

My experience was the opposite (and the same for my friend with EPS disc). It was my first attempt at disc, and I was surprised at how easy it was; and it has never rubbed.

You might want to find a shop with the tool to face the mounts on the fork.

The mounts are fine. The pads just do not retract enough. I've had Chorus disc so this isn't my first time. I've tried removing a small amount of fluid and that didn't work. Maybe a dodgy caliper.
Are yours on a C68?

[rollinslow]

Any users struggling with the brakes? I cannot achieve enough clearance with my front brake. On the Campag website it says this:
Piston-calliper connector: the return action of the pistons is now optimised, rapidly returning the pads to their position and thus ensuring an overall clearance between pad and disc of 0.4-0.8 mm, with no risk of accidental contact.

I wish this was true. I've spent hours trying to get enough clearance to prevent rub. Back brake is okay.

Was very easy for me.

Here's what you need to do. Make sure rotor is not warped. Campy rotors have always been true when I've used them but Shimano for instance is known for pre-warped rotors. Use the Campy 03 rotors which are slightly thinner than the Ekar rotor and lighter.

Exercise the pistons a bit. Gently squeeze out piston a little then push it back in with a plastic tire lever.

Then align by eye knowing that setting the final torque can shift the caliper just enough to cause rub. Account for this if it happens.

Use a business card on the side that keeps rubbing when setting the caliper. Or put one on both sides.

If this fails, the issue is the mount on the frame needs to be faced. You may get an ever so slight rub sometimes and never hear it while riding.

Last option is to buy a 0.25mm shim from Boyd. This can allow you to push outboard the rotor if the issue is rubbing on the inside surface of the rotor. I've done this before and works great.This is also what you need to do if aligning multiple wheelsets from different brands.

[wilwil]

Done all of the above and more. Except a shim which won't solve the problem of pistons not retracting. The brake came with oil, so in theory no need to bleed, but it did need bleeding.
Gears work well.

[rollinslow]

Done all of the above and more. Except a shim which won't solve the problem of pistons not retracting. The brake came with oil, so in theory no need to bleed, but it did need bleeding.
Gears work well.

That's very annoying. Unfortunately, I think that means the frame needs the disc tabs faced as they are likely not perfetly flat.

[joeyb1000]

Yes, a C68.

I also needed to bleed.

[trainingpartner]

My experience was the opposite (and the same for my friend with EPS disc). It was my first attempt at disc, and I was surprised at how easy it was; and it has never rubbed.

You might want to find a shop with the tool to face the mounts on the fork.

The mounts are fine. The pads just do not retract enough. I've had Chorus disc so this isn't my first time. I've tried removing a small amount of fluid and that didn't work. Maybe a dodgy caliper.
Are yours on a C68?

You need to do an open air bleed. And not pressurise the system.

[wilwil]

My experience was the opposite (and the same for my friend with EPS disc). It was my first attempt at disc, and I was surprised at how easy it was; and it has never rubbed.

You might want to find a shop with the tool to face the mounts on the fork.

The mounts are fine. The pads just do not retract enough. I've had Chorus disc so this isn't my first time. I've tried removing a small amount of fluid and that didn't work. Maybe a dodgy caliper.
Are yours on a C68?

You need to do an open air bleed. And not pressurise the system.

What is an open air bleed?

[rollinslow]

If it's truly pad retraction only then i would continue to exercise the pistons more. Assuming your initial bleed was done with the pistons fully pushed in and using the Campy bleed block.

[trainingpartner]

My experience was the opposite (and the same for my friend with EPS disc). It was my first attempt at disc, and I was surprised at how easy it was; and it has never rubbed.

You might want to find a shop with the tool to face the mounts on the fork.

The mounts are fine. The pads just do not retract enough. I've had Chorus disc so this isn't my first time. I've tried removing a small amount of fluid and that didn't work. Maybe a dodgy caliper.
Are yours on a C68?

You need to do an open air bleed. And not pressurise the system.

What is an open air bleed?

Bleed the brake as per Campag instructions and you'll be good! It's when people start letting fluid out and deviating from manufacturer guidelines that "dodgy calipers" become a problem.

[wilwil]

The mounts are fine. The pads just do not retract enough. I've had Chorus disc so this isn't my first time. I've tried removing a small amount of fluid and that didn't work. Maybe a dodgy caliper.
Are yours on a C68?

You need to do an open air bleed. And not pressurise the system.

What is an open air bleed?

Bleed the brake as per Campag instructions and you'll be good! It's when people start letting fluid out and deviating from manufacturer guidelines that "dodgy calipers" become a problem.

I did on more than one occasion and I wasnt good unfortunately. Virtually no clearance not helped by the rotor not being true.

[trainingpartner]

The lever syringe needs to be open "similar to shimano bleed cup" Infact just use a cup

[joeyb1000]

Wilwil,
I'm already assuming that you are using the ut-db011 tool.

The only additional info I can give is that if I hold a flashlight behind the caliper, I can see light on both sides of the pad.
One semi-related issue that I had it that the thru-axle plate on the fork tip was loose from the factory.

[wilwil]

Not sure which tool that is but I am using the campag bleed kit. After removing a bit more fluid the pads have opened up overnight. I can now see daylight both sides and the lever has a bit more travel. Now I just need to replace the warped rotor. I will check the thru axle plate thanks.
I don't understand why there was too much fluid.