Campag SR wireless brakes

[wilwil]

I see what tool that is. But I was using the yellow plastic one that comes with the brakes. When I fitted Chorus disc that tool wasn't available so I assumed it still wasn't. I will buy one.

[bikeboy1tr]

Any users struggling with the brakes? I cannot achieve enough clearance with my front brake. On the Campag website it says this:
Piston-calliper connector: the return action of the pistons is now optimised, rapidly returning the pads to their position and thus ensuring an overall clearance between pad and disc of 0.4-0.8 mm, with no risk of accidental contact.

I wish this was true. I've spent hours trying to get enough clearance to prevent rub. Back brake is okay.

Was very easy for me.

Here's what you need to do. Make sure rotor is not warped. Campy rotors have always been true when I've used them but Shimano for instance is known for pre-warped rotors. Use the Campy 03 rotors which are slightly thinner than the Ekar rotor and lighter.

Exercise the pistons a bit. Gently squeeze out piston a little then push it back in with a plastic tire lever.

Then align by eye knowing that setting the final torque can shift the caliper just enough to cause rub. Account for this if it happens.

Use a business card on the side that keeps rubbing when setting the caliper. Or put one on both sides.

If this fails, the issue is the mount on the frame needs to be faced. You may get an ever so slight rub sometimes and never hear it while riding.

Last option is to buy a 0.25mm shim from Boyd. This can allow you to push outboard the rotor if the issue is rubbing on the inside surface of the rotor. I've done this before and works great.This is also what you need to do if aligning multiple wheelsets from different brands.

I have found this to be the case for my Sram Red calipers that rolllinslow is talking about but I have been using a 0.13mm shim to slide on whichever side is rubbing. Typically I exercise the brake pistons and blow out the dirt with compressed air, then I take silicone lube and hose down the pistons. I also blow the pistons off once again and install the brake pads. I also find using the same process to tighten the caliper bolts with the shim in place. I found this process to be the best way to keep everything quiet everytime.

[joeyb1000]

I see what tool that is. But I was using the yellow plastic one that comes with the brakes. When I fitted Chorus disc that tool wasn't available so I assumed it still wasn't. I will buy one.

I think that's it. The yellow plastic one is for traveling so that the caliper doesn't close without a wheel in the bike.

[usr]

Can we please change the wireless in thread title to WRL? Every time I see it I am tempted to write something supposedly funny about wireless brakes (but let's be honest: not really funny) and it's driving me mad

[rollinslow]

I see what tool that is. But I was using the yellow plastic one that comes with the brakes. When I fitted Chorus disc that tool wasn't available so I assumed it still wasn't. I will buy one.

Yeah, you've got to use the blue metal campy pad spacer/block. Like others said, the yellow clip is purely for travel. That's likely the issue for you then.

[graeme_f_k]

I see what tool that is. But I was using the yellow plastic one that comes with the brakes. When I fitted Chorus disc that tool wasn't available so I assumed it still wasn't. I will buy one.

Yeah, you've got to use the blue metal campy pad spacer/block. Like others said, the yellow clip is purely for travel. That's likely the issue for you then.

The yellow travel block can be used as an oil level tool in a pinch - it's the right nominal width becausre it was designed with that in mind ... but IME it's too pliable to be a really good replacement for the blue oil level tool.

[SaurumonBorakkar]

I had trouble with this as well. Installed the brakes from the same "pre-filled" hoses and caliper. Obviously they did need bleeding afterwards. It did take a few rides for the system to settle in. And a few attempts at adjustment. In my case it was essential to very slowly and incrementally tighten each caliper bolt one then the other. As others have said, when you torque the caliper it does tend to want to walk in one direction or the other. As of now I get very minimal rubbing except under extreme side loading. At the same time my bleed does not feel great and I do need to redo it. When I did the first bleed I did not use the blue Campy tool, I used the yellow block but also shoved as many slices of credit card in there as would fit, to make sure the pistons were as wide as possible.
Another thought that comes to mind is that likely when they assemble the caliper at the factory, it's dry. And then they fill it with fluid afterward. So the seals around the pistons may not be fully slippery. I have heard of people dabbing a bit of mineral oil around the piston seal, or as others have said you need to work the pistons a bunch before they move as freely as intended.
Oh, also, speaking as a mechanic, it is very common to true brake rotors. If you get one out of the box that's dead straight, go buy a lottery ticket.