I need to say it again, the "hold batt button to truly switch it off" is found from EVO 1700 (I got CBL1600, which is the China domestic model equiv). I'm unsure if it applies to other MS lights with remote. Logically if you can use the remote to turn on the light, the light has to be awake all the time ready for command.poulhansen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 28, 2024 3:16 amYes the remote function discharges the battery. It has to.
I didn't know about "holding the button" and Magicshine never told me, so I installed a switch in the battery lead.
The lamp was the Eagle something. It was really good but the original battery soon lost capacity, mostly from just being stored and the bigger battery I then bought, suffered the same fate.
Magicshine front lights with remote control (and possible alternatives)
Moderator: robbosmans
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
Maybe a bit off topic, but as said in original post, I said the light was going back. 4 days after I wrote the return claim to BikeInn, they finally responded, and said they decline the return, due to improper handling and damaging the product. INBELIEVABLE!!! What improper handling??? What damage??? I sent photos of the product. It is as untouched!!!
As already spoken in some other thread this BikeInn, althought is has good prices, is the worst online store to shop at. I would just better be with saying I do not like the product and return it under my shipping costs.
As already spoken in some other thread this BikeInn, althought is has good prices, is the worst online store to shop at. I would just better be with saying I do not like the product and return it under my shipping costs.
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Here are some ideas that don't address the original ask, because that's how we roll. 
When I want to dim my headlight I reach down and partially shade it with my hand.
Lights with a proper cutoff (like StVZO lights) need to be dimmed in far fewer cases because the light isn't spilling into oncoming eyeballs nearly as much. Have you considered one of these as an option to minimize the need to dim/toggle?
For rides that don't require a significant amount of light, I've been pretty content with the Garmin Varia light. It's not the brightest or lightest, but it does well enough for when you want more than a be-seen light but doesn't need car headlight amounts of light. It is that in-between light. It does have a nice shape and looks sleek under a computer mount. You can toggle light modes on the fly if you want. I -think- you can even control this via a Garmin edge and di2/AXS buttons but I haven't tried to be certain. The Garmin light does NOT have a cutoff so it is unaffected by being mounted upside down.
When I need real light for a real ride at night, I use Outbound lights (the bar light + a smaller helmet light). There are no remotes or high/low beam toggles or di2 integration or anything like that. However, they work REALLY REALLY well as lights. In the forest I can see better at night with these lights than during the middle of the day.
The primary Outbound lights are heavy. Effectively getting rid of heat has some tradeoffs. There is no getting around this. The mount is big and ugly. I leave the mounts on my mtb and gravel bikes so I can easily swap lights around. I would not hang this light from a computer mount for long or regular use, so on my road bike I tend to use the Varia light + the Outbound helmet light. The newer Outbound Detour light is lighter weight and might be better for use on a stem/computer mount. This light was released after I bought mine so I have no experience with the Detour.
The Outbound lights DO have a cutoff, but the big ugly mounts are better designed than Garmins, so there are no issues with the orientation of the lights.
The Outbound customer support is unrivaled. If there is a problem, they handle it. Extremely highly recommended.
I wish Outbound would offer an aero bar mount and ANT integration, but overall I've been super impressed. I bought mine more than 3yrs ago.
When I want to dim my headlight I reach down and partially shade it with my hand.
Lights with a proper cutoff (like StVZO lights) need to be dimmed in far fewer cases because the light isn't spilling into oncoming eyeballs nearly as much. Have you considered one of these as an option to minimize the need to dim/toggle?
For rides that don't require a significant amount of light, I've been pretty content with the Garmin Varia light. It's not the brightest or lightest, but it does well enough for when you want more than a be-seen light but doesn't need car headlight amounts of light. It is that in-between light. It does have a nice shape and looks sleek under a computer mount. You can toggle light modes on the fly if you want. I -think- you can even control this via a Garmin edge and di2/AXS buttons but I haven't tried to be certain. The Garmin light does NOT have a cutoff so it is unaffected by being mounted upside down.
When I need real light for a real ride at night, I use Outbound lights (the bar light + a smaller helmet light). There are no remotes or high/low beam toggles or di2 integration or anything like that. However, they work REALLY REALLY well as lights. In the forest I can see better at night with these lights than during the middle of the day.
The primary Outbound lights are heavy. Effectively getting rid of heat has some tradeoffs. There is no getting around this. The mount is big and ugly. I leave the mounts on my mtb and gravel bikes so I can easily swap lights around. I would not hang this light from a computer mount for long or regular use, so on my road bike I tend to use the Varia light + the Outbound helmet light. The newer Outbound Detour light is lighter weight and might be better for use on a stem/computer mount. This light was released after I bought mine so I have no experience with the Detour.
The Outbound lights DO have a cutoff, but the big ugly mounts are better designed than Garmins, so there are no issues with the orientation of the lights.
The Outbound customer support is unrivaled. If there is a problem, they handle it. Extremely highly recommended.
I wish Outbound would offer an aero bar mount and ANT integration, but overall I've been super impressed. I bought mine more than 3yrs ago.
The reason I want / need a remote control so I do not have to take my hand of the hoods. I also used to do it so to block a bit on top of the light. But that was when I was riding on flat or shallow hills/descents. Now days this method is more or less a no-go (except when on previous mention terrain).pushpush wrote: ↑Fri Nov 29, 2024 5:02 pmWhen I want to dim my headlight I reach down and partially shade it with my hand.
Lights with a proper cutoff (like StVZO lights) need to be dimmed in far fewer cases because the light isn't spilling into oncoming eyeballs nearly as much. Have you considered one of these as an option to minimize the need to dim/toggle?
Magicshine does have a good low beam / high beam modes. Today I have tried Magicshine Ray 2600B, that my brother bought (and one hour ago, I purchased as well), and it is way better than Allty 2500S. Brightness is about the same, but no overheating (no heating whatsorever). No battery drainage (I assume, as it has no display and no detail procentage). And as someone previous mentioned, holding the button for 5sec, will primary lock the light and disconect the connection with remote control. So no more battery drainage (have found out that on Allty is the same). And battery duration is longer. Not as specified, but no light in my riding condition is. Toggling between 600 / 2600 lumens, I get around 1h15min (if I will need more, I will customize through app). On Allty was about +30min (although I did ride in colder weather)
Have been in touch with Magicshine directly (as BikeInn is useless as ever), and I was positivly surprised by their fast responce (within a day for each mail).
Lastly I ask them following and below also their reply:
MY QUESTIONS:
....
But I do have to say, that battery life is still way below the claimed. And I must say I have such bad experience with duration will all the lights a have ever owned. Normally, the difference was lower as with yours, but still quite big difference. Regarding this matter, I do ask you to clarify for me 2 general things regarding duration:
- Your tests were done at 25degrees, 25km/h. I ride normally nights in winter with much lower temperatures.. And I thought that lower temperatures would actually prolonged duration, as the light will not overheat. Is that not the case? will it last longer in warmer conditions? I also assume faster rides (more wind) will cool the light and with that, prolong duration. Am I wrong? Could you explain when will duration be longest and when shortest.
- It is commonly known that light produce max lumens in first couple of minutes, and then lumens drop rapidly. All lights. Some more, some less. That is also then why, duration is so long as the lumens drop. I ride short steep hills , almost no flats. Up, down, up, down,... And when going up, I use lower setting, and down on higher speed, I use max setting. I am constantly thinking that I can massively save battery this way. But when always switching to max mode, do I always then get max lumens? As when on the beginning? And before the lumens drop on this max setting, I switch lower, and when back to max, do I get again max lumens? How do these thing work? Do I maybe have such short duration on all lights, due to always having max lumens on maximum setting, and do not get this drop of lumens after couple of minutes on max setting?
THEIR ANSWER:
The response is as follows:
1. Because 25°C is the standard temperature and humidity for laboratory environmental acceptance in the industry, while 25km/h is the average speed at which people ride bicycles.
Temperature being too high or too low can affect runtime. In addition, other factors can also impact battery life, such as: lumen value, mode and usage time.
If you want to maximize the performance of the battery, you can keep the light in an environment similar to that of the laboratory.
2.When the light is at 1-10% power and the light temperature is too high or too low, the lumen will drop until the light recovers its power and temperature, then turning on the high mode will return to a high lumen.
After the experiment by the QC team, the Ray2600B begins to show an overall lumen drop when running at high mode for 84 minutes. You can take this as a reference.
Still not what I was looking for in regards of if there are even lumen drops when I constantly switch from one to another setting. And no mention for lumen drop after several minutes. Only on battery lower than 10%.
Lastly I ask them following and below also their reply:
MY QUESTIONS:
....
But I do have to say, that battery life is still way below the claimed. And I must say I have such bad experience with duration will all the lights a have ever owned. Normally, the difference was lower as with yours, but still quite big difference. Regarding this matter, I do ask you to clarify for me 2 general things regarding duration:
- Your tests were done at 25degrees, 25km/h. I ride normally nights in winter with much lower temperatures.. And I thought that lower temperatures would actually prolonged duration, as the light will not overheat. Is that not the case? will it last longer in warmer conditions? I also assume faster rides (more wind) will cool the light and with that, prolong duration. Am I wrong? Could you explain when will duration be longest and when shortest.
- It is commonly known that light produce max lumens in first couple of minutes, and then lumens drop rapidly. All lights. Some more, some less. That is also then why, duration is so long as the lumens drop. I ride short steep hills , almost no flats. Up, down, up, down,... And when going up, I use lower setting, and down on higher speed, I use max setting. I am constantly thinking that I can massively save battery this way. But when always switching to max mode, do I always then get max lumens? As when on the beginning? And before the lumens drop on this max setting, I switch lower, and when back to max, do I get again max lumens? How do these thing work? Do I maybe have such short duration on all lights, due to always having max lumens on maximum setting, and do not get this drop of lumens after couple of minutes on max setting?
THEIR ANSWER:
The response is as follows:
1. Because 25°C is the standard temperature and humidity for laboratory environmental acceptance in the industry, while 25km/h is the average speed at which people ride bicycles.
Temperature being too high or too low can affect runtime. In addition, other factors can also impact battery life, such as: lumen value, mode and usage time.
If you want to maximize the performance of the battery, you can keep the light in an environment similar to that of the laboratory.
2.When the light is at 1-10% power and the light temperature is too high or too low, the lumen will drop until the light recovers its power and temperature, then turning on the high mode will return to a high lumen.
After the experiment by the QC team, the Ray2600B begins to show an overall lumen drop when running at high mode for 84 minutes. You can take this as a reference.
