Yes the butted portion is in the middle, don't forget bottle hardware, di holes, FD etc.. and attachement that some people may order. Boroscope, well I don't have one .. can you really detect a .9 to .7 variation with the scope.. I don`t want to cut my new frameHannibalLecter wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 1:27 pmThey dont have to avoid the butted portion, since the areas to weld are not near to that. Thats why they are butted, and not just thinner. Id like to use a boroscope to verify that they are actually butted but whatevergksplash wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 12:55 pmFrom a design stand point I was on the fence on this one.. the weight saving I beleive is around 25-50g per tube, you may sacrifice a bit of stifness and the extra cost is not that significant. From a welding perspective they need to avoid overheating the butted portion since the wall is thinner. I am no welder so don't trust everything I say. FOMO got the better of me and also went for top and bottom tubes butted. That being said, once build I challendge you to verify if its buttedHannibalLecter wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 12:23 pmStandard they are not, you have to pay extra, but they are not opposed to it and now they are cheaper than beforeCampagYOLO wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 9:50 am
Waltly have updated their quote sheet and now offer double butted top tubes and downtubes as standard
Fully internal Waltly Ti endurance bike
Moderator: robbosmans
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
-
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:26 pm
Yes, there are welds there also, but not of so much structural significance nor accuracy.gksplash wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 1:52 pmYes the butted portion is in the middle, don't forget bottle hardware, di holes, FD etc.. and attachement that some people may order. Boroscope, well I don't have one .. can you really detect a .9 to .7 variation with the scope.. I don`t want to cut my new frameHannibalLecter wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 1:27 pmThey dont have to avoid the butted portion, since the areas to weld are not near to that. Thats why they are butted, and not just thinner. Id like to use a boroscope to verify that they are actually butted but whatevergksplash wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 12:55 pmFrom a design stand point I was on the fence on this one.. the weight saving I beleive is around 25-50g per tube, you may sacrifice a bit of stifness and the extra cost is not that significant. From a welding perspective they need to avoid overheating the butted portion since the wall is thinner. I am no welder so don't trust everything I say. FOMO got the better of me and also went for top and bottom tubes butted. That being said, once build I challendge you to verify if its buttedHannibalLecter wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 12:23 pm
Standard they are not, you have to pay extra, but they are not opposed to it and now they are cheaper than before
I wouldnt know If i could see it, especially if its gradual, which I suppose it is
Just downloaded it again (pricequote.pdf) and it's identical to a few years ago - no mention of butted tubing either there or anywhere on their site that I can see. They didn't actually say it was impossible when I asked before but seemed *really* keen to stick to plain gauge tubing.CampagYOLO wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 9:50 amWaltly have updated their quote sheet and now offer double butted top tubes and downtubes as standard
Thank you! I'd aim for a smaller down tube but otherwise all good.HannibalLecter wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 7:45 amI also heard that, that they are usually opposed to using butted tubes, but this wasnt my experience, they were accomodating to me. And I think I paid only 150$ more.
As for the diameters, top tube is 31.6x0.9x07x0.9
And downtube is 44.5x09x0.7x0.9
-
- Posts: 999
- Joined: Thu May 06, 2021 3:58 pm
Page 3 of that very document, it's an option for both the downtube and top tube.satanas wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 4:43 pmJust downloaded it again (pricequote.pdf) and it's identical to a few years ago - no mention of butted tubing either there or anywhere on their site that I can see. They didn't actually say it was impossible when I asked before but seemed *really* keen to stick to plain gauge tubing.CampagYOLO wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 9:50 amWaltly have updated their quote sheet and now offer double butted top tubes and downtubes as standard
-
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:26 pm
-
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:26 pm
Its one from Aliexpress
4,09€ | MTB Road Bike Bicycle Fork Tube Expander Headset Nut Expansion Screw Plug Carbon Fiber Fork Hub Ultra Light Expanded
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ew1b3Jj
4,09€ | MTB Road Bike Bicycle Fork Tube Expander Headset Nut Expansion Screw Plug Carbon Fiber Fork Hub Ultra Light Expanded
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ew1b3Jj
-
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:26 pm
Hmm yes because if the weight savings. However, it does not provide the same support to the steerer tube from the inside.
However I did not encounter any problems
However I did not encounter any problems
-
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:26 pm
My seatpost clamp gave up recently and I decided to go with sth a bit different.
And behold, a piece of the land of the free and the home of the brave!. Wolftooth, made in the US. And not too stupid price either, around 23€. If it was Chris King it would be 60€.
However, on the looks department I still prefer the kcnc one. Also the kcnc is half of the weight.
And how it broke? I was adamant toqueing it to 10nm, despite the seatpost saying max 8nm and despite the numerous warnings that it was going to give.
In the end the aluminium screw failed due to bending.
It goes to show, that even an engineer, with experience and an expensive torque wrench can still result to stupid failures
And behold, a piece of the land of the free and the home of the brave!. Wolftooth, made in the US. And not too stupid price either, around 23€. If it was Chris King it would be 60€.
However, on the looks department I still prefer the kcnc one. Also the kcnc is half of the weight.
And how it broke? I was adamant toqueing it to 10nm, despite the seatpost saying max 8nm and despite the numerous warnings that it was going to give.
In the end the aluminium screw failed due to bending.
It goes to show, that even an engineer, with experience and an expensive torque wrench can still result to stupid failures
I am sorry but as an eng myself, those parts are really poorly designed. Have you ever seen a part with a SF of 1,25. I have in the aero industry but never in commun parts. Blowing those have hapened to all of us.. seat clamp, chainring bolts, stem bolts.. just bad design.
-
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:26 pm
I wouldnt say poorly designed exactly. They did what they could, considering the kcnc one weighs I think only 11 grams. It has an aluminium bolt, but its thick enough. The only real engineering fault is its overconstrained and in bending when tightened really much, as I did. Then, of course it breaks at the start of the threads. Nothing unexpected, its a lightweight part.gksplash wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2024 8:28 pmI am sorry but as an eng myself, those parts are really poorly designed. Have you ever seen a part with a SF of 1,25. I have in the aero industry but never in commun parts. Blowing those have hapened to all of us.. seat clamp, chainring bolts, stem bolts.. just bad design.
The wolftooth ticks all the engineering principles, but its twice the weight.
As for FoS around 1.25, id say it is not so untypical. I consider 25% overload a pretty safe margin if the design envelope is well defined and the weight is a consideration.
Fun fact, sometimes even a below 1.0 safety factor (0.98-0.99) is used (because accumulatively the safety factor of the materials or the fatigue estimates is deemed sufficient)
This is on very rare occasions though and they usually regard strategic advantages against China or Russia
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com