Fully internal Waltly Ti endurance bike

[EugeneC]

This topic definitely needs more high res pictures of that beautiful bike.

[HannibalLecter]

This topic definitely needs more high res pictures of that beautiful bike.

Thank you for your kind words! Unfortunately all the money went to the bike and Im stuck with a samsung

[HannibalLecter]

Here are some

[HannibalLecter]

When in Munich...

[HannibalLecter]

One meaningless upgrade, but I will enjoy it everytime I look between my legs
Ti button head notched bolts, in black pvd

[Hensem]

Hi. I want to ask you as a professional. I will be laying brake hoses inside the head tube and I want to know at what tension the hoses should be? I fly with a bike and in order to pack more compactly, it is desirable to have the hoses as long as possible. I will have 20mm detachable spacers from Enve in-route installed. Can I leave as much hose inside the head tube as possible without tension? Will the carbon fork steerer not cut through?

[HannibalLecter]

Hi. I want to ask you as a professional. I will be laying brake hoses inside the head tube and I want to know at what tension the hoses should be? I fly with a bike and in order to pack more compactly, it is desirable to have the hoses as long as possible. I will have 20mm detachable spacers from Enve in-route installed. Can I leave as much hose inside the head tube as possible without tension? Will the carbon fork steerer not cut through?

I dont have solid data to back up my suggestion, as I guess no one has, but if I was in your position, Id do it like as you said, by leaving as much as possible inside the frame.
My take is that it would take an eternity for the hose to abrade to the tube, its not that its geting pushed in tension against it either way, as it is with the hoses left and right of the headtube in the old days of external routing.
Also, dont assume that short cables dont induce friction and contact. My rear brake hose is probably 2cm too short (I messed one brake fitting installation, sram brakes and shimano brake hoses) and I keep hearing it moving inside the downtube.
Also, although many builders use liners (foam tubes) I have never seen a bike come from the manufacturer with these installed.
Also, bear in mind, that its always better to have a bit of hose to spare, in case you are changing spacers, or doing a brake job.
Cheers!

[Hensem]

Thanks for the reply. I have already bought a foam hose to prevent noise. My current titanium bike does not have such a hose and sometimes I hear a ringing sound inside the tube. I want to first attach the hose to the rear Hope caliper, then pass the hose through the entire frame and lead it to the handlebars, and only then, when I install the shifters, cut the ends of the hoses and connect them to the shifters. This way, I hope, the hose lengths will be with a reserve everywhere. My shifters came with 1300mm and 2000 hoses, so there should be enough with a reserve. I will be bleeding the brakes for the first time, I am a little worried. But for all this, first of all, I need to wait for Waltly to send the frame, it has been ready for a long time, I am waiting for my friend's frame to be welded and sent together. I think this will happen in the next week.

[HannibalLecter]

I did it like that too and aligned the shifters on the steerer by laying them on a table. However, the tricky part with this method is to hold the brake hose end completely inside the nipple and completely inside the brake fitting and the gear lever. To do that I reccomend to completely remove the levers from the clamps and reinstall them after you do the brake fitting tightening.
Also, it is imperative to ensure that the front hydro hose goes though all the nessesary pieces. Bearings, brake hose housing inside the fork and also non separable top headset cup and non separable spacer-stem transition piece. I am assuming you went with complete internal routing.
I did this step thrice and believe me, its one of the worst jobs on a bike

[Hensem]

To be honest, I have already assembled the bike dozens of times in my mind and it does not seem difficult to me. The Enve headset, as well as the fork, are also Enve in-route. It seems to me that the entire upcoming assembly is not difficult, but time will tell. What about the shifters? I will need to assemble the bike and take it to a bikefitter to make a precise adjustment to my parameters, and he will have to set the shifters with a special tool. After the shifters are installed, I will connect the hoses.

[HannibalLecter]

With the shifters installed it is very difficult to be sure that the hose with the olive are all the way in the shifter, especially with the shimano system.
It is not that easy, because there are maybe 100 easy steps lets say, but if you do mess some or the sequence, it can be a real setback.
But its nothing that cant be solved with time.

[HannibalLecter]

Also, a journey towards lightweight upgrade.
As the bike is now, with cages, pedals and without accessories, the weight stands at 8.38 kg. Which is a bit weird, since previously it was 8.46 and I upgraded both the discs (-118g) and the brake calipers(-35g).
Maybe its the stoopid park tool scale, idk.
Next to the list is;
Sram red d1 10-33 cassette , -73g
Sram red e1 chain, hopefully -25g
Xpedo ti look keo compatible, -100g

[HannibalLecter]

And today, troubleshooting of an intermitent misfunction of the left shifter. To not be able to downshift is pretty anoying Id say.
I had pinpointed the problem on the battery tray, I tried to manipulate the contacts, it made the issue to go away for a month, but it returned.
So I had to remove the brake blade and the shifter buttons, that are connected to the battery tray with a wire. The tray sits beneath the shifter body, secured by 4 prongs-tongues. These grab to the corresponding places in the shifter body and to remove the tray you must push them in, through holes, left and right on the shifter body! Dont try and wiggle a blade in between from underneath! There are 4 oval holes, and now I know why they are there lol.
Next, you have to detach the brake blade and the shifter buttons.
They are attached through two pivots. The first, is a 3mm two sided male-female bolt, you have to counteract with a 3mm as well.
The second, is the pivot that attaches to the brake master cylinder piston.
To detach this, you have to reach to the 2.5mm hex REACH screw from below, with a long tool and completely tighten it. Yes, tighten it. You arent actually tighten, its reverse thread, counterintuitive. At the start it may take some force, as it is locktited.
At this point, the spring that is responsible for the shifter button return will probably go flying. It sits on an identation/pin on the brake blade and a button on the shifter blade. Dont lose it.
I didnt find any straightforward faults, exept for the other side of the battery tray is also removable, sealed by an oring as well, but without any means of retention. It was slightly lifted, and I noticed that it tended to lift even more as I was replacing the screwing lid that holds the battery on the other side, due to the accumulated pressure.
By removing the cap, one can inspect the soldering to the contacts. Mine was okay.
So what was the problem?
My theory is that by tightening the screwing lid and pressing too much , the pressure was making the lid on the opposite side to move as well, thus not supporting the middle piece , where the battery contacts sit. Hopefully the issue wont return again,cause I would really hate to spend 80€ for the shifter buttons that are otherwise in a perfect working order!
I think that it is possible to troubleshoot the battery tray without removing the brake blade
Also, if you remove the brake blade, button assembly pay attention to the route of the cable on the reassembly. There is a special place for it.

[Hensem]

Can you answer,please? I need you opinion.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=176782&p=1898537#p1898537

[Hensem]

Can you answer,please? I need your opinion.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=176782&p=1898537#p1898537