He is an internet expert. I have had Multiple very stiff Ti(for Ti) bikes - and they aren't that stiff.
Quite frankly a lot of softness people feel in BB's can be not so stiff BB/crank interfaces and rear wheels that are not that stiff.
Moderator: robbosmans
He is an internet expert. I have had Multiple very stiff Ti(for Ti) bikes - and they aren't that stiff.
Exactly.
Yes, the claim the aethos is stiffer than the fray is a give away, plus these gems...B0tt0mline wrote: ↑Mon Oct 14, 2024 1:30 pmI have the Aethos and the Fray and the Aethos is not stiffer at all
Too much internet again, come on...
What do you guys think?jayjay wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2024 9:54 amRegarding the recent headset bearing topic.
Ceramicspeed does not reccomend using their 40x52x7mm bearing for the Enve frames but mentiones to maybe add some spacer between the compression ring and top cap.
Enve says:So, the big question, use the CeramicSpeed SLT bearings or not?I terms of the recesses in the headset bearings, I've had no reports from consumers on our end with that issue of increased friction from the headset cover when using any aftermarket IS52/52 (40x52x7) bearings. We have folks at ENVE HQ running ceramic speed bearings on their ENVE frames with no complaints or issues that I am aware of.
The actual bearing OD is 51.8. However, the 52mm bearing from Ceramic speed should fit in our head tube, it'll just create a snugger fit.
The bearing is still listed as a 40x52x7 from Token, which is why ENVE listed it as such. Its actual measured OD is 51.8. The information listed on our support site is there to allow folks to purchase replacement bearings, all of which would be listed in whole mm measurements and not to the tenth. To avoid confusion, we provide measurements that other headset manufacturers typically list, which are to the whole mm or in this case, 52mm. Preload on the headset and the upper compression ring account for these slight differences in tenths of a mm by compressing the headset and bearings and removing any play. At the end of the day, our head tube is designed around an IS52 bearing, and replacing the headset bearings in the future with other brands that offer 40x52x7 bearings should be no issue.
I'm building a MOG for a client/friend. Ended up ordering the SLT bearings even though I wasn't sure from the previous comments. As ENVE said, the bearings are just more snug. The 51.8s just fall in/out and have a little slop. The SLT 52.0 bearings go in pretty easily and just need to be walked out a little when removing. I'm waiting for my friend to provide me the wheels before I can really say it feels fine, but so far it feels fine. I don't see any excess or insufficient gaps anywhere.jayjay wrote: ↑Wed Oct 16, 2024 9:51 amWhat do you guys think?jayjay wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2024 9:54 amRegarding the recent headset bearing topic.
Ceramicspeed does not reccomend using their 40x52x7mm bearing for the Enve frames but mentiones to maybe add some spacer between the compression ring and top cap.
Enve says:So, the big question, use the CeramicSpeed SLT bearings or not?I terms of the recesses in the headset bearings, I've had no reports from consumers on our end with that issue of increased friction from the headset cover when using any aftermarket IS52/52 (40x52x7) bearings. We have folks at ENVE HQ running ceramic speed bearings on their ENVE frames with no complaints or issues that I am aware of.
The actual bearing OD is 51.8. However, the 52mm bearing from Ceramic speed should fit in our head tube, it'll just create a snugger fit.
The bearing is still listed as a 40x52x7 from Token, which is why ENVE listed it as such. Its actual measured OD is 51.8. The information listed on our support site is there to allow folks to purchase replacement bearings, all of which would be listed in whole mm measurements and not to the tenth. To avoid confusion, we provide measurements that other headset manufacturers typically list, which are to the whole mm or in this case, 52mm. Preload on the headset and the upper compression ring account for these slight differences in tenths of a mm by compressing the headset and bearings and removing any play. At the end of the day, our head tube is designed around an IS52 bearing, and replacing the headset bearings in the future with other brands that offer 40x52x7 bearings should be no issue.
Ouch.Belisarius wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2024 2:49 pm
My LBS tried the sand paper with resin and it did not work- the clamp chewed through it or the clamp side worse off is 2-3 rides and I was back to removing the seat post. The issue for slipping is always at the back and sides. The Colnago paint told me exactly where the few contact points were. So the clamp applies as much force on the stiff carbon mast as it can. but the slippage occurs in 75% on the seat post area besides the clamp. As these forces micro twist the seat post (and I was getting a gentle CCW creak and twist), it all twists itself down. Temporarily anchored at the top while still twisting and creaking below the clamp. Any how after consulting Hambini, his solution not working, scouring articles, I realized that it is a common tolerance issue plaguing the entire front clamp based industry. for example my Time clamps at the back of the seatpost and ZERO slippage. Besides the impeccable 0.1-0.2mm fit delta, the Time seatapost gets in gently with pressure and never moves clamped. But my V3Rs At 0.5mm gap any liquid resin sandpaper etc was squeezed, chewed (though glad to hear it worked for you). Seapost angle also matters. Steeper the angle the more downwards the force vector (so a 73 degree seatpost will slide less than a 73.5 or 74).
Anyhow after a brutal failed Sunday ride, when the thing failed twice 5-7 mms I recalled from Japanese craft,the art of fitting habaki for swords that cannot twist or undo during battle. So came up with the foil then brass wrap with JB welt, and leaving the clamp area exposed so it contacts the hard seatpost material.
In my case the 0.2 mm brass wrapped around 75% of the D shape solved it, so the bras was like a C. Power output went up (imagine having to start rides with 3mm higher, then finishing 2 mm lower), speed, comfort, no more twists. the seatpost contact at the back, and around the C shape. the lower resin I left prevent any micro twists.
kuotient wrote: ↑Thu Oct 17, 2024 8:44 pm
I'm building a MOG for a client/friend. Ended up ordering the SLT bearings even though I wasn't sure from the previous comments. As ENVE said, the bearings are just more snug. The 51.8s just fall in/out and have a little slop. The SLT 52.0 bearings go in pretty easily and just need to be walked out a little when removing. I'm waiting for my friend to provide me the wheels before I can really say it feels fine, but so far it feels fine. I don't see any excess or insufficient gaps anywhere.
hiasn wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2024 5:32 pmhere is my enve fray build:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/201718212 ... 6G9758BvH2
frame and fork: enve fray 52 cm salt
wheels: enve ses 3.4 (custom silkgraphics decals "salt")
cockpit: enve ses ar cockpit 100/38
tires: pirelli p zero race tlr 40mm
groupset: sram xplr 2024 13 speed 46t chainring, 46-10 casette
pedals: look keo carbon ti 2024
saddle: selle italia slr boost flow ti
bottle cages: elite leggero carbon
mounts: front: enve, rear: k-edge varia mount
weight: 7,8 kg (including everything mentioned above and 2 neoprene sleeves for in frame storage)