My LBS tried the sand paper with resin and it did not work- the clamp chewed through it or the clamp side worse off is 2-3 rides and I was back to removing the seat post. The issue for slipping is always at the back and sides. The Colnago paint told me exactly where the few contact points were. So the clamp applies as much force on the stiff carbon mast as it can. but the slippage occurs in 75% on the seat post area besides the clamp. As these forces micro twist the seat post (and I was getting a gentle CCW creak and twist), it all twists itself down. Temporarily anchored at the top while still twisting and creaking below the clamp. Any how after consulting Hambini, his solution not working, scouring articles, I realized that it is a common tolerance issue plaguing the entire front clamp based industry. for example my Time clamps at the back of the seatpost and ZERO slippage. Besides the impeccable 0.1-0.2mm fit delta, the Time seatapost gets in gently with pressure and never moves clamped. But my V3Rs At 0.5mm gap any liquid resin sandpaper etc was squeezed, chewed (though glad to hear it worked for you). Seapost angle also matters. Steeper the angle the more downwards the force vector (so a 73 degree seatpost will slide less than a 73.5 or 74).morrisond wrote: ↑Sat Oct 12, 2024 3:20 pmI had the same issue on the seatpost slipping. I crazy glued some sand paper to the aluminum wedge and no problems now. I don't need crazy torque now either and i'm over 100kg's.thomiz wrote: ↑Sat Oct 12, 2024 7:47 amGot my Fray up an running a couple of weeks ago. The Frame is quite a lot heavier than the marketing statements, 1100g with hanger and bolts in size 58, probably around 1050g without hanger and bolts. The ride is superb though, the bike feels planted on the tarmac in a way my former BMC SLR never did, and that is using the same wheelset on both bikes.
I have one major problem however and a niggle. The problem first, my seatpost is slipping, even when torqued to 6Nm and using carbon paste (Muc off pink one), slips about 1.5 cm every hour. I might have fixed it after a lot of abuse during installation on my last attemt (pulling and pushing the seatpost, then retightening, repeat several times). I also wonder how to get the T47 BB off in an orderly fashion for service, as a T47 tool seems prone to slipping on my Rotor internal 24mm BB. If the Park tool BBR-RS really works I might just get one of them.
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Anyhow after a brutal failed Sunday ride, when the thing failed twice 5-7 mms I recalled from Japanese craft,the art of fitting habaki for swords that cannot twist or undo during battle. So came up with the foil then brass wrap with JB welt, and leaving the clamp area exposed so it contacts the hard seatpost material.
In my case the 0.2 mm brass wrapped around 75% of the D shape solved it, so the bras was like a C. Power output went up (imagine having to start rides with 3mm higher, then finishing 2 mm lower), speed, comfort, no more twists. the seatpost contact at the back, and around the C shape. the lower resin I left prevent any micro twists.