2024 Factor Ostro sighted

[kode54]

That’s a nice paint job. Factor still includes a blue CS BB. At one point, they had black ones with the v1 Ostro but appears they went back to the blue one.

[wickedstealthy]

This is what I got back from factor support

IMG_3113.jpeg

Thank you very much! Great info.

Check the answer from the brand, crazy:

IMG_7831.jpeg

I asked the same to get an idea on how the stuff would look like. In fact I only needed the measurements of either the fork or 1 sizexheadtube and that could have been given by the dealer. The rest I could derive myself with a drawing in geocalc which I always use to guestimate my position etc

Maybe look at the v1 geo. Factor told me it’s the same geo and I think they give you the measurements on that.

Well they are not. The seat angle is 1degree less on the old model and therefor it was more or less a deal breaker for me. It would require the saddle to be shifted further forward. I don't want anything less then 73.5 for that amount of money Seattube is 7mm shorter on the new one. Reach stack are equal. I also found the headtube/spacers integration aesthetically more pleasing as I need 25-30. That's why I would never buy a sl8 as anything more then 5mm on that bike is ugly.

[Frimez]

Hey, has anyone tried fitting the Enve road aero stem to the Factor Ostro Vam (V1 or V2)?
Would like to know if it can be build up with a decent transition (clean looking from the side).

[apaz]

Hey, has anyone tried fitting the Enve road aero stem to the Factor Ostro Vam (V1 or V2)?
Would like to know if it can be build up with a decent transition (clean looking from the side).

I did with the InRoute stem (from the Melee) and it worked out OK. I used the short headset cap and had to clip out some of the internal fins in one of the enve spacers but it all went together without issue. It looked reasonably clean, but not perfect.

Although I'm not certain I think that the FSA ACR and ENVE InRoute stems are really close, if not interchangeable. If that's actually true then FSA now has an ACR top cap for the Ostro which might work with the ENVE stem.

The ENVE Aero stem is 100% NOT compatible. In addition to no provision for passing cables through the stem, the alloy sleeve that adjusts the stem angle would end up interfering.

[Frimez]

Hey, has anyone tried fitting the Enve road aero stem to the Factor Ostro Vam (V1 or V2)?
Would like to know if it can be build up with a decent transition (clean looking from the side).

I did with the InRoute stem (from the Melee) and it worked out OK. I used the short headset cap and had to clip out some of the internal fins in one of the enve spacers but it all went together without issue. It looked reasonably clean, but not perfect.

Although I'm not certain I think that the FSA ACR and ENVE InRoute stems are really close, if not interchangeable. If that's actually true then FSA now has an ACR top cap for the Ostro which might work with the ENVE stem.

The ENVE Aero stem is 100% NOT compatible. In addition to no provision for passing cables through the stem, the alloy sleeve that adjusts the stem angle would end up interfering.



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Thank you very much for this extensive answer.
This saves me a lot of time and money.

I will probably try the SL7 stem.
Initial plan was the standard Black Inc road stem but unfortunately there is no decent Garmin/Wahoo mount to connect to this stem (bolts are in the opposite direction) and an Out front mount does not fit on my handlebars.

[apaz]

I will probably try the SL7 stem.

This likely won't work either. The SL7 stem doesn't support internal routing. The hoses clip to the underside of the stem and there's a spacer with an opening that allows the hoses to enter the spacer stack below the stem. You must use the SL7 spacers and have a headset that supports this type of entry.

I've really struggled to find stems that work and look OK. The Kalloy Uno works, but there's no computer mount. The Schmolke / THM stems will work and there is a mount available. Mcfk should work as well.

[spud]

Given lack of availability, compatability etc, why are people reluctant to use the Black bar/stem? I've been using it for the past 4 months, and it works well, and comes in just about any size you can think of.

[Frimez]

Given lack of availability, compatability etc, why are people reluctant to use the Black bar/stem? I've been using it for the past 4 months, and it works well, and comes in just about any size you can think of.

I am going to use the Toot Ashaa RR narrow handlebars so need a seperate stem-handlebars combo.
I do like the new Black Inc bars, but would like something difirent and really narrow .

This likely won't work either. The SL7 stem doesn't support internal routing. The hoses clip to the underside of the stem and there's a spacer with an opening that allows the hoses to enter the spacer stack below the stem. You must use the SL7 spacers and have a headset that supports this type of entry.

I've really struggled to find stems that work and look OK. The Kalloy Uno works, but there's no computer mount. The Schmolke / THM stems will work and there is a mount available. Mcfk should work as well.

I have seen some people (Youtube - RobbArmstrong) run the SL7 stem in combination with the SL7 spacers (internal cables) and it seems to be a decent match with the Factor Ostro Vam (only the front of the spacers is a bit longer), but as you mentioned the THM Tibia might be a better and lighter fit.
Probably going for that one if I can find one for a decent price.

[wickedstealthy]

Given lack of availability, compatability etc, why are people reluctant to use the Black bar/stem? I've been using it for the past 4 months, and it works well, and comes in just about any size you can think of.

Because they want to save 90gr.

[wickedstealthy]

Some update

Still in progress and need to cut the steerer still too

On order or going to be

- carbon ti discs
- darimo seatpost
- ti thru axles

If it turns out in the correct direction it would drop another 120-130gr

Fitting 25mm Pirelli P Zero tires instead of 28mm and the lighter tpu would drop another 50-60gr

So for sake of ww thingy it could end up at 6.8kg complete pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount included

But likely going to go with some wider dukes adding a bit and sticking to the more reliable 36gr tpu

The bartape is not fitted but is roughly compensated with the alu/steel bolt Garmin mount on the saddle

[fidracer]

Some update

Still in progress and need to cut the steerer still too

On order or going to be

- carbon ti discs
- darimo seatpost
- ti thru axles

If it turns out in the correct direction it would drop another 120-130gr

Fitting 25mm Pirelli P Zero tires instead of 28mm and the lighter tpu would drop another 50-60gr

So for sake of ww thingy it could end up at 6.8kg complete pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount included

But likely going to go with some wider dukes adding a bit and sticking to the more reliable 36gr tpu

The bartape is not fitted but is roughly compensated with the alu/steel bolt Garmin mount on the saddle.

Looks great! What wheels are those?

Also, ditch the valve caps and save another gr or two.

[wickedstealthy]

Some update

Still in progress and need to cut the steerer still too

On order or going to be

- carbon ti discs
- darimo seatpost
- ti thru axles

If it turns out in the correct direction it would drop another 120-130gr

Fitting 25mm Pirelli P Zero tires instead of 28mm and the lighter tpu would drop another 50-60gr

So for sake of ww thingy it could end up at 6.8kg complete pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount included

But likely going to go with some wider dukes adding a bit and sticking to the more reliable 36gr tpu

The bartape is not fitted but is roughly compensated with the alu/steel bolt Garmin mount on the saddle.

Looks great! What wheels are those?

Also, ditch the valve caps and save another gr or two.

Duke Baccara X 56/56 23iw/29.3ow using cx ray with tactic hubs. 1290gr including tape

I will soon switch to Duke Baccara RX same height a bit heavier but 25iw/33.5ow

Reason is that I find that the nicest setup with 28mm tires like my Reserve 52/63 but lighther

Around 40gr heavier in total

[sigma]

This is what I got back from factor support

IMG_3113.jpeg

Thank you very much! Great info.

Check the answer from the brand, crazy:

IMG_7831.jpeg

I asked the same to get an idea on how the stuff would look like. In fact I only needed the measurements of either the fork or 1 sizexheadtube and that could have been given by the dealer. The rest I could derive myself with a drawing in geocalc which I always use to guestimate my position etc

Maybe look at the v1 geo. Factor told me it’s the same geo and I think they give you the measurements on that.

I noticed the standover heights were slightly different between the v1 and v2 (being slightly taller) if I recall (I checked the 56 size). Factor used to have the standover for the v1 pegged at just sub 80 (like 795) and I think there is a minor wheelbase difference. Not material as the major measurements are all identical (stack, reach, head tube angle, seat tube angle slight difference)

[ameenr]

Anyone else having headset issues on their Ostro VAM 2.0? My new bike has been fantastic except for trying to find the sweet spot for headset preload. If I set it in a manner that doesn’t cause binding, the fork can be flexed independent of the frame while holding the front brake and rocking the bike. When I set what appears to be the proper amount of preload, the bearing top cap (what sits closest to the frame) rubs against the frame causing some lateral binding which forces the fork to not turn which can get pretty dicey. This problem is exacerbated when I stand up peddling with my hands on the hoods / body weight biased over the front wheel. The issue is also apparent when braking downhill. You can feel the bike just wants to go straight, which makes since because the bearing top cap is literally binding up against the frame.



I've gone through the Factor manual and followed it step by step the numerous times I have had the bars off to attempt adjusting this. The fork steerer was cut at the bike shop so it has the recommended amount of 3mm height below the top of the stem. All torque specs have religiously been followed. The top bearing split ring is positioned at the 6:00 per the manual. Bearings have fresh grease around their cups and the fork steerer tube / inner stem have received plenty of carbon paste. It seems like setting the "correct" (I.E. fork is solid and does not rattle or rock loosely when I hold the brake) amount of preload pulls the bearing stack together too tighly and reduces the gaps between the frame and bearing cover to almost nothing so if any flex happens, this is the result.

[X5SAE]

You might need one or two micro spacers on top of the compression ring.

As soon as you're nearing the optimal preload, the dustcap is hitting the frame causing the scratches you see. You do not want to set a lower preload since the loose headset might cause degradation to the bearing seat from vibration and too much play.