2024 Factor Ostro sighted

[wheelbuilder]

You might need one or two micro spacers on top of the compression ring.

As soon as you're nearing the optimal preload, the dustcap is hitting the frame causing the scratches you see. You do not want to set a lower preload since the loose headset might cause degradation to the bearing seat from vibration and too much play.

It's this. If the bearings are seated in their bores correctly and everything is assembled in correct order and orientation you need microspacers installed on top of the upper bearing. Experiment with how many.

[jayjay]

You might need one or two micro spacers on top of the compression ring.

What kind of spacers would that be?

[eins4eins]

You might need one or two micro spacers on top of the compression ring.

What kind of spacers would that be?

https://www.bike-components.de/de/kompo ... 1000189085

[ameenr]

You might need one or two micro spacers on top of the compression ring.

As soon as you're nearing the optimal preload, the dustcap is hitting the frame causing the scratches you see. You do not want to set a lower preload since the loose headset might cause degradation to the bearing seat from vibration and too much play.

It's this. If the bearings are seated in their bores correctly and everything is assembled in correct order and orientation you need microspacers installed on top of the upper bearing. Experiment with how many.

Makes sense! I will give this a shot. Thanks guys!

[kode54]

Some update

Still in progress and need to cut the steerer still too

On order or going to be

- carbon ti discs
- darimo seatpost
- ti thru axles

If it turns out in the correct direction it would drop another 120-130gr

Fitting 25mm Pirelli P Zero tires instead of 28mm and the lighter tpu would drop another 50-60gr

So for sake of ww thingy it could end up at 6.8kg complete pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount included

But likely going to go with some wider dukes adding a bit and sticking to the more reliable 36gr tpu

The bartape is not fitted but is roughly compensated with the alu/steel bolt Garmin mount on the saddle8e3f4c17-b41e-49bc-a8e5-aaf8ee779c21.jpeg8b04f171-50f4-4591-b247-b0e3a715017d.jpeg

I got my Darimo seatpost...and since I ordered the 15mm setback, it doesn't fit properly. I had a 15mm Darimo on my v1 Ostro...but noticed that there's a 5 degree difference in the seatpost angle...so now, I need a zero setback. Let me know if you would be interested in the 15mm Darimo. UD, matte black, black decals. 300mm length.

[kode54]

Anyone else having headset issues on their Ostro VAM 2.0? My new bike has been fantastic except for trying to find the sweet spot for headset preload. If I set it in a manner that doesn’t cause binding, the fork can be flexed independent of the frame while holding the front brake and rocking the bike. When I set what appears to be the proper amount of preload, the bearing top cap (what sits closest to the frame) rubs against the frame causing some lateral binding which forces the fork to not turn which can get pretty dicey. This problem is exacerbated when I stand up peddling with my hands on the hoods / body weight biased over the front wheel. The issue is also apparent when braking downhill. You can feel the bike just wants to go straight, which makes since because the bearing top cap is literally binding up against the frame.



I've gone through the Factor manual and followed it step by step the numerous times I have had the bars off to attempt adjusting this. The fork steerer was cut at the bike shop so it has the recommended amount of 3mm height below the top of the stem. All torque specs have religiously been followed. The top bearing split ring is positioned at the 6:00 per the manual. Bearings have fresh grease around their cups and the fork steerer tube / inner stem have received plenty of carbon paste. It seems like setting the "correct" (I.E. fork is solid and does not rattle or rock loosely when I hold the brake) amount of preload pulls the bearing stack together too tighly and reduces the gaps between the frame and bearing cover to almost nothing so if any flex happens, this is the result.

That's odd. I have at least 1mm of space clearance between frame and top bearing cover. You sure the split ring is in there? I would pull the handlebar up to check and make sure its in there.

[wickedstealthy]

Some update

Still in progress and need to cut the steerer still too

On order or going to be

- carbon ti discs
- darimo seatpost
- ti thru axles

If it turns out in the correct direction it would drop another 120-130gr

Fitting 25mm Pirelli P Zero tires instead of 28mm and the lighter tpu would drop another 50-60gr

So for sake of ww thingy it could end up at 6.8kg complete pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount included

But likely going to go with some wider dukes adding a bit and sticking to the more reliable 36gr tpu

The bartape is not fitted but is roughly compensated with the alu/steel bolt Garmin mount on the saddle8e3f4c17-b41e-49bc-a8e5-aaf8ee779c21.jpeg8b04f171-50f4-4591-b247-b0e3a715017d.jpeg

I got my Darimo seatpost...and since I ordered the 15mm setback, it doesn't fit properly. I had a 15mm Darimo on my v1 Ostro...but noticed that there's a 5 degree difference in the seatpost angle...so now, I need a zero setback. Let me know if you would be interested in the 15mm Darimo. UD, matte black, black decals. 300mm length.

5degree ???? There is only 1.5degree between v1 and v2 and the new one is steeper. So if you needed a -15 on the old you definitely need a -15mm on the new.
That's the reason why I never bought the old version as it's seattube is too slack

I always need 0mm seatpost and at least >73.5 degree seattube. I just ordered my 0mm

[ameenr]

That's odd. I have at least 1mm of space clearance between frame and top bearing cover. You sure the split ring is in there? I would pull the handlebar up to check and make sure its in there.

Yep. I am 100% sure the split ring is present and oriented in the correct direction.

[speedylumberjack]

Given lack of availability, compatability etc, why are people reluctant to use the Black bar/stem? I've been using it for the past 4 months, and it works well, and comes in just about any size you can think of.

I am going to use the Toot Ashaa RR narrow handlebars so need a seperate stem-handlebars combo.
I do like the new Black Inc bars, but would like something difirent and really narrow .

This likely won't work either. The SL7 stem doesn't support internal routing. The hoses clip to the underside of the stem and there's a spacer with an opening that allows the hoses to enter the spacer stack below the stem. You must use the SL7 spacers and have a headset that supports this type of entry.

I've really struggled to find stems that work and look OK. The Kalloy Uno works, but there's no computer mount. The Schmolke / THM stems will work and there is a mount available. Mcfk should work as well.

I have seen some people (Youtube - RobbArmstrong) run the SL7 stem in combination with the SL7 spacers (internal cables) and it seems to be a decent match with the Factor Ostro Vam (only the front of the spacers is a bit longer), but as you mentioned the THM Tibia might be a better and lighter fit.
Probably going for that one if I can find one for a decent price.

Did you decide on what stem by chance? Also looking at a similar situation, already have my Ostro slammed with a BI bar stem but looking to go to an integrated stem & narrow bars combo as well that looks decent enough.

[kode54]

Some update

Still in progress and need to cut the steerer still too

On order or going to be

- carbon ti discs
- darimo seatpost
- ti thru axles

If it turns out in the correct direction it would drop another 120-130gr

Fitting 25mm Pirelli P Zero tires instead of 28mm and the lighter tpu would drop another 50-60gr

So for sake of ww thingy it could end up at 6.8kg complete pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount included

But likely going to go with some wider dukes adding a bit and sticking to the more reliable 36gr tpu

The bartape is not fitted but is roughly compensated with the alu/steel bolt Garmin mount on the saddle8e3f4c17-b41e-49bc-a8e5-aaf8ee779c21.jpeg8b04f171-50f4-4591-b247-b0e3a715017d.jpeg

I got my Darimo seatpost...and since I ordered the 15mm setback, it doesn't fit properly. I had a 15mm Darimo on my v1 Ostro...but noticed that there's a 5 degree difference in the seatpost angle...so now, I need a zero setback. Let me know if you would be interested in the 15mm Darimo. UD, matte black, black decals. 300mm length.

5degree ???? There is only 1.5degree between v1 and v2 and the new one is steeper. So if you needed a -15 on the old you definitely need a -15mm on the new.
That's the reason why I never bought the old version as it's seattube is too slack

I always need 0mm seatpost and at least >73.5 degree seattube. I just ordered my 0mm

Not true. Not exact on the amount of the degree...but its enough for me to go with 15mm setback on v1 Ostro and zero setback on v2 Ostro.
I bought the v2 thinner seatpost in 15mm setback thinking that it is the same geometry...using same saddle and measured the saddle nose to headset bolt (same handlebar). i'm off about 18mm. Crazy, I know...since I paid and waited for the v2 seatpost only to find out I need the zero. Oh well.

[kode54]

That's odd. I have at least 1mm of space clearance between frame and top bearing cover. You sure the split ring is in there? I would pull the handlebar up to check and make sure its in there.

Yep. I am 100% sure the split ring is present and oriented in the correct direction.

Odd. Mine is perfect with no touching despite proper preload. top frame area has a bit of grease but no scratches.

[wickedstealthy]

Some update

Still in progress and need to cut the steerer still too

On order or going to be

- carbon ti discs
- darimo seatpost
- ti thru axles

If it turns out in the correct direction it would drop another 120-130gr

Fitting 25mm Pirelli P Zero tires instead of 28mm and the lighter tpu would drop another 50-60gr

So for sake of ww thingy it could end up at 6.8kg complete pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount included

But likely going to go with some wider dukes adding a bit and sticking to the more reliable 36gr tpu

The bartape is not fitted but is roughly compensated with the alu/steel bolt Garmin mount on the saddle8e3f4c17-b41e-49bc-a8e5-aaf8ee779c21.jpeg8b04f171-50f4-4591-b247-b0e3a715017d.jpeg

I got my Darimo seatpost...and since I ordered the 15mm setback, it doesn't fit properly. I had a 15mm Darimo on my v1 Ostro...but noticed that there's a 5 degree difference in the seatpost angle...so now, I need a zero setback. Let me know if you would be interested in the 15mm Darimo. UD, matte black, black decals. 300mm length.

5degree ???? There is only 1.5degree between v1 and v2 and the new one is steeper. So if you needed a -15 on the old you definitely need a -15mm on the new.
That's the reason why I never bought the old version as it's seattube is too slack

I always need 0mm seatpost and at least >73.5 degree seattube. I just ordered my 0mm

Not true. Not exact on the amount of the degree...but its enough for me to go with 15mm setback on v1 Ostro and zero setback on v2 Ostro.
I bought the v2 thinner seatpost in 15mm setback thinking that it is the same geometry...using same saddle and measured the saddle nose to headset bolt (same handlebar). i'm off about 18mm. Crazy, I know...since I paid and waited for the v2 seatpost only to find out I need the zero. Oh well.

You do the setup by taking the same reference points.
This means you start with measuring the setback properly by using an independent reference. You measure the setback by taking for example 7cm width of the saddle. In your case not needed as you use the same saddle for comparing your setups
Put you bike FLAT against the wall and check that the distance between the centre bb and wall is on both side equal. Then measure the distance to the wall both tip saddle (same) and centre crank bolt to the wall. Substract. Check if this is EQUAL on both bikes.
Check you saddle height also for both bikes and adjust.
Distance to stem is and tip is completely irrelevant as this changes with each bike due to angle of seattube. Same for saddle height
I have special ruler for this
I have checked my setup already several times with a fitter who has a complete laser setup and it always is correct to the mm
After that you adjust your stem length.

What you do measuring from tip of saddle to stem bolt is wrong as you seat position to bb has changed ! Your frame is 1degree different. Depending on the height of the saddle this goes easily beyond 10mm.

I would first check if the seatpostion on both your bike is 100% equal using the method above.

I just checked on my drawing and the difference at my seatheight would be 15mm between the old and the new frame with regard setback. So on the old bike I would need to shift my saddle completely forward ...

So something doesnt add up in your setup. I would expect that you would need even more setback then on the old if I read your info correct.

[kode54]

Thx. When the geometry wasn’t available for v2 Ostro, I ordered everything ahead of time. Fast forward…geometry is not the same. I use lasers as well including some 3D printed fitting tools so all my bikes are the same fit. I didn’t expect it to be different from v1 to v2. Handlebar length and width same. Crank same. All transferred over.

I understand the whole stack and reach. I was not fitting a new bike, just transfer parts over. Surprise, surprise.

[Frimez]

Did you decide on what stem by chance? Also looking at a similar situation, already have my Ostro slammed with a BI bar stem but looking to go to an integrated stem & narrow bars combo as well that looks decent enough.

After seeing pictures of others using the THM Frontale on the Factor Ostro, I decided to go with the THM Tibia myself. Unfortunately, I wasn’t aware there was a non-ICR version and accidentally ended up buying that one secondhand.

Ideally, I'd like to run the THM/Schmolke setup, but I’m not too keen on spending €600 for a stem. I'm still on the lookout for a decent solution at a more reasonable price.

[wickedstealthy]

Thx. When the geometry wasn’t available for v2 Ostro, I ordered everything ahead of time. Fast forward…geometry is not the same. I use lasers as well including some 3D printed fitting tools so all my bikes are the same fit. I didn’t expect it to be different from v1 to v2. Handlebar length and width same. Crank same. All transferred over.

I understand the whole stack and reach. I was not fitting a new bike, just transfer parts over. Surprise, surprise.

I'm really surprised that you would need a 0mm. Why ? The angle is 1 degree steeper so for me at 752mm height that's about 6mm more forward saddle position on the rails. So if you needed a 15mm on the old bike using the same saddle position relative to the crank on the new one you would need to shift either the saddle further back on the rails or use a 20mm setback to have the same position clamping on the rails.
So I'm really surprised that you now suddenly need 0mm

That's what I'm trying to grasp what's going on here Merely out of interest
For me it is all spot on to the mm