Red AXS E1 (Where is New SRAM Red)

[TobinHatesYou]

Ah! That makes sense. Thank you.

Galfer supply an external notch lockring with the rotors. I guess it already has a shim or is just small enough? I never thought twice about it until now.

It comes with the shim. Most internally notched lockrings are small enough and don't need the shim. Some like the ENVE lockrings would need a shim.

I think this shim is deformable and is there to act as a mean of retaining so it doesn't get loose, not as a spacer. And many other lockrings, internal or external have it. Actually I think all have it

It’s is not simply a crush washer like on other lockrings, it’s thicker than that.

[pushpush]

I'm having a hell of a time eliminating pad rub on my front E1 caliper. Pistons are fully seated. Using stock supplied SRAM pads. I tried Galfer Road Wave, Catalyst Pro, and Shimano discs. The Shimano discs are a hair bit narrower than the others. I spent a bunch of time truing them. The pads continue to rub for a few minutes AFTER applying pressure to the system. It is like the pistons take way too long to retract. I did a full bleed. I tried removing a small amount of fluid from the system. Not sure what else to do.

The e1 rear caliper with the same pads and discs has no problem. Previous Red D1 calipers had tons of clearance and required no fiddling. Is it possible there is something wrong with this specific caliper itself? I can request a replacement.

The shifters are night and day better than the previous generation.

[X5SAE]

I'm having a hell of a time eliminating pad rub on my front E1 caliper. Pistons are fully seated. Using stock supplied SRAM pads. I tried Galfer Road Wave, Catalyst Pro, and Shimano discs. The Shimano discs are a hair bit narrower than the others. I spent a bunch of time truing them. The pads continue to rub for a few minutes AFTER applying pressure to the system. It is like the pistons take way too long to retract. I did a full bleed. I tried removing a small amount of fluid from the system. Not sure what else to do.

The e1 rear caliper with the same pads and discs has no problem. Previous Red D1 calipers had tons of clearance and required no fiddling. Is it possible there is something wrong with this specific caliper itself? I can request a replacement.

The shifters are night and day better than the previous generation.

Are you sure your fork brake mounts are square? They might need a bit of facing. Weird that D1 was better...

[HannibalLecter]

Usually I find that sram have enough pad clearance to work with. Id probably sent it back.
Edit; does it constantly rub ? Maybe its a disc issue

[pushpush]

Usually I find that sram have enough pad clearance to work with. Id probably sent it back.
Edit; does it constantly rub ? Maybe its a disc issue

Tried 3 different discs with the same result. The shimano disc being the thinnest works the best, but that isn't saying a whole lot. The replacement is back-ordered for a couple of weeks but it was no problem getting an exchange lined up. The fact that the rear caliper works as expected makes me think the front is somehow defective. We'll see what happens.

On a positive note, now all my brake rotors are nice and straight!

[kervelo]

I'm having a hell of a time eliminating pad rub on my front E1 caliper. Pistons are fully seated. Using stock supplied SRAM pads. I tried Galfer Road Wave, Catalyst Pro, and Shimano discs. The Shimano discs are a hair bit narrower than the others. I spent a bunch of time truing them. The pads continue to rub for a few minutes AFTER applying pressure to the system. It is like the pistons take way too long to retract. I did a full bleed. I tried removing a small amount of fluid from the system. Not sure what else to do.

The e1 rear caliper with the same pads and discs has no problem. Previous Red D1 calipers had tons of clearance and required no fiddling. Is it possible there is something wrong with this specific caliper itself? I can request a replacement.

The shifters are night and day better than the previous generation.

Did you try the procedures described in the troubleshooting part of the manual?
https://docs.sram.com/en-US/publication ... leshooting

[HannibalLecter]

Usually I find that sram have enough pad clearance to work with. Id probably sent it back.
Edit; does it constantly rub ? Maybe its a disc issue

Tried 3 different discs with the same result. The shimano disc being the thinnest works the best, but that isn't saying a whole lot. The replacement is back-ordered for a couple of weeks but it was no problem getting an exchange lined up. The fact that the rear caliper works as expected makes me think the front is somehow defective. We'll see what happens.

On a positive note, now all my brake rotors are nice and straight!

It's just a sticky piston then, nothing new under the sun. You could bother to free it up but I wouldn't

[robeambro]

Looking to possibly fit Red E1 shifters, brakes and derailleurs to a build. In order to take advantage of better FD shifting, does one also need new Red E1 rings, or would any other (say, Red D1, Force D2) work just as well?

[HannibalLecter]

Looking to possibly fit Red E1 shifters, brakes and derailleurs to a build. In order to take advantage of better FD shifting, does one also need new Red E1 rings, or would any other (say, Red D1, Force D2) work just as well?

No, tye technology on these parts is exactly the same

[robeambro]

Looking to possibly fit Red E1 shifters, brakes and derailleurs to a build. In order to take advantage of better FD shifting, does one also need new Red E1 rings, or would any other (say, Red D1, Force D2) work just as well?

No, tye technology on these parts is exactly the same

Thanks - that's reassuring.

[Tpduke112]

I just want to say it's impressive how much smoother and quicker E1 shifts than D1. I don't think I realized how much I change my cadence to make sure I the shifts are smooth or that I don't drop on my D1 bike. I don't even think about it at all on E1. Shifts under load with little fuss.

[spartan]

any timeframe when rival/force will get a refresh next year with new levers/brakes

[hannawald]

Hi, I am new to Sram. I have bought Red shifter/caliper set and it comes as one piece. I can see "dream build" videos where they make internal routing and there is some silver ending. They also position shifters without being them connected to the hose... what is the trick you can do this without the oil coming out of the shifter/hose? What plugs can I buy for this? Thanks!

[HannibalLecter]

Hi, I am new to Sram. I have bought Red shifter/caliper set and it comes as one piece. I can see "dream build" videos where they make internal routing and there is some silver ending. They also position shifters without being them connected to the hose... what is the trick you can do this without the oil coming out of the shifter/hose? What plugs can I buy for this? Thanks!

How's that silver thing you talking about look like?
Do you mean a nipple? For sram you need special sram ripples, with threads and special corresponding red aluminium olives. Not much oil will come off of your hoses, unless you want them a lot. However plugs are useless, cause you will definitely need to cut the hoses. From the sound of it you are not very familiar with the details of this job and its quite challenging, especially if you are a novice. And you seem to have an integrated bike as well.
I'd leave a shop do it or really study the task. You can also leave the old hoses in probably. Either way you will need a bleeding.

[Uberflo]

... but only if there is dot in there.

You need SRAM Stealth-a-majig for connecting the hoses to the shifter. Look at the the SRAM YouTube channel. There is a video for every step, including hose shortening and system bleed.