Red AXS E1 (Where is New SRAM Red)

[nullptr]

With weightweenie voucher, banktransfer and 5€ newsletter bonus you can the E1 FD on starbike for 350€.

[HannibalLecter]

With weightweenie voucher, banktransfer and 5€ newsletter bonus you can the E1 FD on starbike for 350€.

Thanks, but Id rather wait, sooner or later something will pop out in Kleinanzeigen

[Tpduke112]

I have D1 Red, E1 Red and Rival RD and FD on road bikes, then Force RD on my gravel bike.

I notice no difference between the RDs. Someone said it earlier but the E1 Red FD is WAY faster than D1 or Rival. I also fiddle with the limit screws on my D1 Red FD way too much. I can literally never get it right. It either won't shift or it throws the chain. I get it right for about one ride a week.

[HannibalLecter]

I have D1 Red, E1 Red and Rival RD and FD on road bikes, then Force RD on my gravel bike.

I notice no difference between the RDs. Someone said it earlier but the E1 Red FD is WAY faster than D1 or Rival. I also fiddle with the limit screws on my D1 Red FD way too much. I can literally never get it right. It either won't shift or it throws the chain. I get it right for about one ride a week.

That's definitely not normal. I set up the rival fd alright, cant imagine the red is so crap.

[Tpduke112]

I have D1 Red, E1 Red and Rival RD and FD on road bikes, then Force RD on my gravel bike.

I notice no difference between the RDs. Someone said it earlier but the E1 Red FD is WAY faster than D1 or Rival. I also fiddle with the limit screws on my D1 Red FD way too much. I can literally never get it right. It either won't shift or it throws the chain. I get it right for about one ride a week.

That's definitely not normal. I set up the rival fd alright, cant imagine the red is so crap.

C'est la vie. It's bad enough that I only run 2x on it during winter. It goes back to 1x in Spring when it's time to race.

[paulbike]

Low limit screw is the magic with FD adjustment. Don't ignore it.

[Kubackjeee]

Thoughts? I didn't think there were (m)any changes with the new chains.

https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/balois ... ip-medals/

For a start, a chain between top gear and spokes can only be because of a bad limit screw setting, so I'm not sure I'd take it too seriously. Maybe they had a bad batch of chains.

Yeah for sure a pro bike mechanic can't properly set 3 bikes

[TobinHatesYou]

Thoughts? I didn't think there were (m)any changes with the new chains.

https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/balois ... ip-medals/

For a start, a chain between top gear and spokes can only be because of a bad limit screw setting, so I'm not sure I'd take it too seriously. Maybe they had a bad batch of chains.

Yeah for sure a pro bike mechanic can't properly set 3 bikes

Pro mechanics often are set in their own ways and not up to date with the best practices for new equipment.

Seems more likely they used a solvent/degreaser they shouldn’t have, such as Simple Green or any degreaser mixed with too much water and that led to hydrogen embrittlement.

[gloscherrybomb]

Thoughts? I didn't think there were (m)any changes with the new chains.

https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/balois ... ip-medals/

For a start, a chain between top gear and spokes can only be because of a bad limit screw setting, so I'm not sure I'd take it too seriously. Maybe they had a bad batch of chains.

Yeah for sure a pro bike mechanic can't properly set 3 bikes

I've seen some pretty shocking pro bike mechanic work...

[bobones]

Are the E1 cranksets significantly different from D1 in terms of shifting operation? That is, do you need the E1 crankset to get the best out of the E1 front derailleur?

I'm currently weighing up what E1 components (if any) to buy for a new SL8 build. Thing is I already have newish full Red D1 and I'm trying to decide if it's worth getting some E1 stuff. Obviously, shifters (with calipers) would make the biggest difference with the new ergonmics, improved braking power and bonus buttons. Apart from that, I am less sure, and I think I'm just being tempted to spend money on new stuff for the sake of it. I have no issues with D1 shifting speed or reliability, so I am not really looking for an improvement in that regard.

Any thoughts?

[Nickldn]

Are the E1 cranksets significantly different from D1 in terms of shifting operation? That is, do you need the E1 crankset to get the best out of the E1 front derailleur?

I'm currently weighing up what E1 components (if any) to buy for a new SL8 build. Thing is I already have newish full Red D1 and I'm trying to decide if it's worth getting some E1 stuff. Obviously, shifters (with calipers) would make the biggest difference with the new ergonmics, improved braking power and bonus buttons. Apart from that, I am less sure, and I think I'm just being tempted to spend money on new stuff for the sake of it. I have no issues with D1 shifting speed or reliability, so I am not really looking for an improvement in that regard.

Any thoughts?

I'm in the same position with SL8 and in my view the only tangible benefit would be the E1 shifters/brake calipers with lower weight, longer reach, slimmer profile, bonus buttons and more braking force. I would not change the rest.

BUT I'm not so sure if more braking force is actually good. For me the D1 brakes are powerful enough and I'm concerned the additional power of the E1 brakes could lead to locking up easily in the wet and doing an emergency stop.

[nullptr]

Just get the D2 Force chainrings. Cheap, same weight as E1 red and better looking.

[jadedaid]

I've come to E1 after owning the original Red eTap and running AXS 1x. I was expecting more of an improvement on the front shifting tbh. Still nowhere near Shimano. I prefer the trade off of bigger cassette jumps to the E1 shifting. I also wish the shifting paddles were a bit bigger - shifting when on the hoods is a bit worse than before.

Braking however is a revelation. Finally good brakes for SRAM.

[bobones]

I'm in the same position with SL8 and in my view the only tangible benefit would be the E1 shifters/brake calipers with lower weight, longer reach, slimmer profile, bonus buttons and more braking force. I would not change the rest.

I think you're right. I can get the shifters/calipers for about £1030, which is still a bit steep when I last year I got the D1 equivalent plus the RD, FD and rotors for a bit less. I think I'll build it up with what I've got and see if prices come down next year.

[OtterSpace]

If you already have calipers you could get just the shifters where the bigger upgrade is as stand alone parts. Search for E1 exchange kit. SRAM RED Shift/Brake Lever eTap AXS Exchange Kit - Right, Includes Hood, E1 710845911941