Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL8

[bcarvalho]

I have got now 3 SL8´s in our house and the fork of the first one had definitely a centering problem (Sworks frameset, RTP, bought in September 2023)! My dealer opened a warranty claim and I got a new fork (thanks to Specialized!!) - the same wheel with the same tire was then centered in the new fork!

My wife bought a SL8 (Pro Frameset) in Apri 2024 and there was also no issue… all wheels we have were centered in the fork!

Now in November 2024 I just received a warranty Sworks sl8 frameset (crack in the downtube of my rtp frameset) - the front wheel is also 100% centered in the new fork! I think there was an issue with some forks in the beginning of the sales start of the sl8 (my dealer had 3 complete Sworks bikes in his shop at sales start and 2 of it had the issue and one was aligned perfect).

Look at my pictures…first fork from the rtp frameset with the issue and second fork of my newest warranty frameset without the issue… I‘m not a technician but you can easily see a problem here (always the same wheel which is centered)!

1st one i see totally centered.
Thanks for the feedback.

To be honest it looks to me that the fork design was reworked a bit.
I think it is not a manufacturing defect. It makes total sense asymetrical fork legs for a fork that starts "thin" near the headtube so that tge dis can have room.
I wish i had a clue what Spesh road bike engineers have on their head... or maybe not ahahah. Maybe they know the same as i do.

[Kardinal]

The fork is asymmetrical (it must be to have place for the disc brake caliper)! I see the problem in the fork crown area - it looks like a molding issue! 1mm - 2mm misalignment are not the point but in my case with my first fork I wasn’t able to mount a 32 mm tire because the tire clearance to the right crown side was so tight! I would never have accepted it riding like that!

Mistakes can happen and in my case Specialized solved the problem with a new fork (and I expect exact this from a premium manufacturer because we pay a lot of money for the frames) …so everything is ok!

[caballero]

My 2025 tarmac pro frame is also centered with multiple wheel sets fitted. Friends s-works is not. His is from last year, so 2023 produce ?

[boyce89976]

We've been doing some night riding so I picked up a decent headlight and mounted it today to the underside of the stock computer mount. I measured my front tire to be exactly 1mm further from the NDS fork, but I wasn't worried about it since the fork is clearly asymmetric. But some days the tire looks centered to the frame and other days maybe not... either way bike is still awesome and a joy to ride, so I accepted it and moved on although it's always been there in the back of my mind, haha.

But, from the riding position, with the light mounted, the light lines up perfectly with the front tire and the tire is perfectly centered with the light, steerer tube and handlebars. With all the discussion yesterday, that was a nice little surprise and I can finally put it to rest for my bike. Lol

[bobones]

I started building up the SL8 with Red AXS D1 but using Force levers and calipers for now because I cba transferring the Red ones from my Venon at the minute, and I may end up buying some of the new E1 stuff (edit: just preordered the Exchange kit).

I've had a brief scoot about the car park and the bike fits fine with no spacers. Height and reach measurements are within my usual fit range. Given that chopping the steerer all the way will compromise resale value, would you ever consider keeping a couple of spacers on just in case you don't get on with the bike and want to sell it quick? (I will be cutting down the chimney regardless and won't run spacers on top). I am in two minds about this as either fit will work for me, but I do think the speed sniffer looks better slammed. Any thoughts?

Also, is cutting the steerer while the fork is attached to the bike acceptable to avoid having to refit brake hoses? (I am using an easily removable compression plug and have a Park Tool cutting guide).

Any thoughts on wheels? I don't want to spend silly money, so I'm thinking modern Chinese with carbon spokes that are around 50 mm deep/31 mm wide in the 1200-1300g that are an upgrade on the Elite Edges below, which I really like (45 deep, 24 internal, 31 external, 1390g). I'll probably be running 28 mm GP5k TT TR or maybe 30 mm Corsa Pros if I want tan walls. Deerobust maybe?

I must admit, this paint job is very understated in dull lighting, and the bike could do with something to add a bit of pop. Decals, black rings and gold or rainbow chain, bling bar tape, or just embrace the stealthy look?

[stevec1975]

Looks good bobones!

That is the supernova colourway right, I too didn't like how it looked in dull lighting, hence using speeydecals.com to give the frame a bit of pop.

For wheels, I can't see much better value $/g than Farsports Wheels, quite a few to choose from, much more that listed on the website, you can whatsapp Emma @ FS and she will give you a discount code also.

Would personally never chop the steerer in situ, but I've seen it done (badly I might add), as for if you should chop it, I always align behind I am making the bike right for me, ignore the resale value aspect, but each to their own.

[bobones]

Thanks, Steve. Yes, it's the supernova. I think you're right about cutting to suit me, as I hardly ever sell my bikes anyway: this one is #7. I'll ride it with a chimney for a while and make a final decision on what's comfortable and fast for me alone. I'll take a closer look at the Farsports offerings too and think about bling later.. Cheers.

[sheldonsmith]

My SL7 (and soon SL8) came from Specialized unpainted and just had a simple clear coat. I had the local bike painter paint the logos in a color I selected, and re-clear coated it. The clear coat changes the carbon shade to much darker and glossier. The red logos contrast off the darker gray makes them pop.

I cut my own steer tube in 0.50cm increments (use steer tube guide and Park tool carbon hacksaw blade; both relatively inexpensive).

IMG_5483.jpg (87.36 KiB) Viewed 1114 times

Apologies for the blurry photo; damm iPhone 18 camera...

[stevec1975]

Gelu have just shown their new SL8 Seatposts on Insta: https://www.instagram.com/p/DClz_RwChtE/?hl=en

Looks like 100.7g for the 300mm and 109.3g for the 350mm.

This along with the Alptitude version at around the same weight, means some serious competition for Darimo.

[mrlobber]

Tbh, looking much better than Darimo also aesthetically.

[andy4g63]

I started building up the SL8 with Red AXS D1 but using Force levers and calipers for now because I cba transferring the Red ones from my Venon at the minute, and I may end up buying some of the new E1 stuff (edit: just preordered the Exchange kit).

I've had a brief scoot about the car park and the bike fits fine with no spacers. Height and reach measurements are within my usual fit range. Given that chopping the steerer all the way will compromise resale value, would you ever consider keeping a couple of spacers on just in case you don't get on with the bike and want to sell it quick? (I will be cutting down the chimney regardless and won't run spacers on top). I am in two minds about this as either fit will work for me, but I do think the speed sniffer looks better slammed. Any thoughts?

Also, is cutting the steerer while the fork is attached to the bike acceptable to avoid having to refit brake hoses? (I am using an easily removable compression plug and have a Park Tool cutting guide).

Any thoughts on wheels? I don't want to spend silly money, so I'm thinking modern Chinese with carbon spokes that are around 50 mm deep/31 mm wide in the 1200-1300g that are an upgrade on the Elite Edges below, which I really like (45 deep, 24 internal, 31 external, 1390g). I'll probably be running 28 mm GP5k TT TR or maybe 30 mm Corsa Pros if I want tan walls. Deerobust maybe?

I must admit, this paint job is very understated in dull lighting, and the bike could do with something to add a bit of pop. Decals, black rings and gold or rainbow chain, bling bar tape, or just embrace the stealthy look?


IMG_7216-1.jpg

Bike is looking great.
Get the new shifters and calipers, PERIOD...

About cutting steerer tube on bike, easy. Just remember is a 2 person job...

I would leave personally one big spacer, below and above the handlebars, not to mention if you decide to go with the short cranks route you'll need to raise the bars...

Speedy decals makes great stickers, I would suggest SRAM AXS RAINBOW/Holographico color for your frame...

The problem I have with decals is I wipe my bike after every ride and every time some microfiber strains get stuck in sharp corners.
If you go this route I would suggest clear coat it. I could send you some pictures...

Anyway, Cheers

[Torbjorn]

My SL7 (and soon SL8) came from Specialized unpainted and just had a simple clear coat. I had the local bike painter paint the logos in a color I selected, and re-clear coated it. The clear coat changes the carbon shade to much darker and glossier. The red logos contrast off the darker gray makes them pop.

I cut my own steer tube in 0.50cm increments (use steer tube guide and Park tool carbon hacksaw blade; both relatively inexpensive).

IMG_5483.jpg

IMG_6432.jpg

Perhaps this was done on purpose, but I think they may have misplaced the main logo, it's shifted too high up on the downtube.

[Noro]

I started building up the SL8 with Red AXS D1 but using Force levers and calipers for now because I cba transferring the Red ones from my Venon at the minute, and I may end up buying some of the new E1 stuff (edit: just preordered the Exchange kit).

I've had a brief scoot about the car park and the bike fits fine with no spacers. Height and reach measurements are within my usual fit range. Given that chopping the steerer all the way will compromise resale value, would you ever consider keeping a couple of spacers on just in case you don't get on with the bike and want to sell it quick? (I will be cutting down the chimney regardless and won't run spacers on top). I am in two minds about this as either fit will work for me, but I do think the speed sniffer looks better slammed. Any thoughts?

Also, is cutting the steerer while the fork is attached to the bike acceptable to avoid having to refit brake hoses? (I am using an easily removable compression plug and have a Park Tool cutting guide).

Any thoughts on wheels? I don't want to spend silly money, so I'm thinking modern Chinese with carbon spokes that are around 50 mm deep/31 mm wide in the 1200-1300g that are an upgrade on the Elite Edges below, which I really like (45 deep, 24 internal, 31 external, 1390g). I'll probably be running 28 mm GP5k TT TR or maybe 30 mm Corsa Pros if I want tan walls. Deerobust maybe?

I must admit, this paint job is very understated in dull lighting, and the bike could do with something to add a bit of pop. Decals, black rings and gold or rainbow chain, bling bar tape, or just embrace the stealthy look?


IMG_7216-1.jpg

Bike is looking great.
Get the new shifters and calipers, PERIOD...

About cutting steerer tube on bike, easy. Just remember is a 2 person job...

I would leave personally one big spacer, below and above the handlebars, not to mention if you decide to go with the short cranks route you'll need to raise the bars...

Speedy decals makes great stickers, I would suggest SRAM AXS RAINBOW/Holographico color for your frame...

The problem I have with decals is I wipe my bike after every ride and every time some microfiber strains get stuck in sharp corners.
If you go this route I would suggest clear coat it. I could send you some pictures...

Anyway, Cheers

I can only +1 Speedydecals. But I would say you would rather prefer to get Glossy decals instead of Matte as the glue is stronger. Same issue with the corners.

I have a RPT frame, which I added glossy black decals and on top I've added a coat of Qtechnik coating. Decals held incredibly for 1 year with no issues through winter, summer and wash. Now for this year I've changed to White decals and I am on my third set in 5 weeks. The first was white matte and started to peel off mid ride (Because the decals could not stick anymore to the bike because of the ceramic coating). The second set was a glossy finish and held better until a day of pouring rain where they came off like paper. Third one, glossy again I hope it will hold better, but because each letter is separate, specially for the fork and seatstays, the corners normally have issues with staying in place.

[bobones]

Bike is looking great.
Get the new shifters and calipers, PERIOD...

About cutting steerer tube on bike, easy. Just remember is a 2 person job...

I would leave personally one big spacer, below and above the handlebars, not to mention if you decide to go with the short cranks route you'll need to raise the bars...

Speedy decals makes great stickers, I would suggest SRAM AXS RAINBOW/Holographico color for your frame...

The problem I have with decals is I wipe my bike after every ride and every time some microfiber strains get stuck in sharp corners.
If you go this route I would suggest clear coat it. I could send you some pictures...

Anyway, Cheers

Thanks, Andy. I appreciate the advice. Good point about needing to raise bars if I move to short cranks: I was thinking about getting 165s if I bought the whole groupset, and this was something I didn't consider.

I've more or less finished the main build now: just waiting on some light cages from AliX and it will be ready to ride.

I ended up playing safe and took the fork off to cut it. I was going to need to bleed the brakes anyway, and threading the hoses back through the bars didn't take long. It now has 20 mm of spacers below the stem, but I'll probably end up a bit lower after some test rides.

I've now got all Red on it apart from the Force levers, which I haven't bothered to swap as I've preordered the E1 Exchange kit levers. I've fitted a rainbow chain and cassette, and I'm thinking about putting black Force rings on the Red crank to highlight them.

The Elite Edge wheels now have Galfer Wave rotors (160/140) and 28mm GP5k TT TR tyres (31.5 WAM) mounted. These are a decent enough stop gap, but I'll probably get something deeper and lighter for spring.

Weight was 6.82kg with my Keo blade pedals but jumped up to 6.90 kg when I fitted the Vector 3's. This is with bar tape and computer mount, but without cages, so it should be just shy of 7kg complete, which I am pretty happy with as there's plenty of scope to drop more.

I must say I am very impressed with the Tavelo Avro bars and accompanying computer mount. I think the bars really suit the SL8 tube shapes and they look and feel great. Purchasing them from Panda Podium was quick and painless, so these are definitely an option to consider if you'd rather not wait on EXS or Roval coming back into stock and don't want to risk getting a snider from Avian.

Although it can look a bit dull in photos, the paint job is pretty cool in real life, but I'll have a think about adding decals to give it some pop. The SRAM holographic ones are a great idea: my buddy has those on his "Force" Zipp 303 FCs, and they're very eye catching, but it was pretty sunny today and I was happy enough with the stealthy look of the stock ones. I'll hopefully get a photo or two when the sun is back up tomorrow.

Cheers, everyone!

[bmrk]

Bike is looking great.
Get the new shifters and calipers, PERIOD...

About cutting steerer tube on bike, easy. Just remember is a 2 person job...

I would leave personally one big spacer, below and above the handlebars, not to mention if you decide to go with the short cranks route you'll need to raise the bars...

Speedy decals makes great stickers, I would suggest SRAM AXS RAINBOW/Holographico color for your frame...

The problem I have with decals is I wipe my bike after every ride and every time some microfiber strains get stuck in sharp corners.
If you go this route I would suggest clear coat it. I could send you some pictures...

Anyway, Cheers

Thanks, Andy. I appreciate the advice. Good point about needing to raise bars if I move to short cranks: I was thinking about getting 165s if I bought the whole groupset, and this was something I didn't consider.

In which case shortening the cranks would create the need to raise the bars?

Shorter cranks means a bigger hip angle that allows you to go lower while also increasing the reach if you move the saddle further forward.