BBInfinite

[eucalyptus]

I don’t use a hammer but use a Hambini removal cup. Fits with Enduro press tools. It’s a large deep cup with hole in middle that ‘cups’ the BB and holds it there pressing against the frame. The one piece BB, be it BBinfinte or Hambini…is slowly pressed out safely.

Will Hambini's removal cup also work with frames that have almost no protrusion remaining between the sleve of the BBinifine module and the frame?

What I mean is best explained with the following pictures taken from the NDS of my Canyon Ultimate:

Looking at the left edge of the BB shell (where the downtube attaches to the BB shell) the sleeve of the BBinfinite module is entirely covering the outer edge of the BB shell leaving virtually no space to support the removal cup. Only at the right edge of the BB shell (where the chainstay attaches to the BB shell) the frame will properly support the removal cup. Given the immense extraction force the cup may easily get pushed over the unsupported edge of the BB shell thus jamming the alignement of the press/cup and the imagiunary axis of the BB shell.

Do you have any thoughts about this or, even better, experices you can share?

Thanks!

Is that the BB86 to DUB version you have, by chance? Any issues with bearings durability?

I have that WS2 coated. Done 12 000km and bearings was nice. But wasn't spinning well anymore.

Contacted BBinfinite (who definitely is a one or two man show). He believed it was my frame that crushed the bearings being BB86 not entirely 40.95mm.

Took out everything, received new bearings on warranty for $60 usd + customs fee.

Could be my frame being undersized. I followed Hambinis guide and it could be 0.1mm undersized so took some sandpaper to fix it. Haven't installed the BB after that so can't tell you yet. Sounds like a common problem apparently.

Also have the same bearings on my mtb, fewer miles but harsher environments. Neither bearings have zero sign of rust after heavy water and shower pours. I never hold back with the water hose.

Also have the BSA 30mm (dub) version. Some slight drag with THM installed, could be the BSA shells not being 100% aligned, I dunno. Just sucks

[kode54]

I don’t use a hammer but use a Hambini removal cup. Fits with Enduro press tools. It’s a large deep cup with hole in middle that ‘cups’ the BB and holds it there pressing against the frame. The one piece BB, be it BBinfinte or Hambini…is slowly pressed out safely.

Will Hambini's removal cup also work with frames that have almost no protrusion remaining between the sleve of the BBinifine module and the frame?

What I mean is best explained with the following pictures taken from the NDS of my Canyon Ultimate:

Looking at the left edge of the BB shell (where the downtube attaches to the BB shell) the sleeve of the BBinfinite module is entirely covering the outer edge of the BB shell leaving virtually no space to support the removal cup. Only at the right edge of the BB shell (where the chainstay attaches to the BB shell) the frame will properly support the removal cup. Given the immense extraction force the cup may easily get pushed over the unsupported edge of the BB shell thus jamming the alignement of the press/cup and the imagiunary axis of the BB shell.

Do you have any thoughts about this or, even better, experices you can share?

Thanks!

Here's a pic of the Hambini tool. About 50mm I.D.

[edchristoph]

I don’t use a hammer but use a Hambini removal cup. Fits with Enduro press tools. It’s a large deep cup with hole in middle that ‘cups’ the BB and holds it there pressing against the frame. The one piece BB, be it BBinfinte or Hambini…is slowly pressed out safely.

Will Hambini's removal cup also work with frames that have almost no protrusion remaining between the sleve of the BBinifine module and the frame?

What I mean is best explained with the following pictures taken from the NDS of my Canyon Ultimate:

Looking at the left edge of the BB shell (where the downtube attaches to the BB shell) the sleeve of the BBinfinite module is entirely covering the outer edge of the BB shell leaving virtually no space to support the removal cup. Only at the right edge of the BB shell (where the chainstay attaches to the BB shell) the frame will properly support the removal cup. Given the immense extraction force the cup may easily get pushed over the unsupported edge of the BB shell thus jamming the alignement of the press/cup and the imagiunary axis of the BB shell.

Do you have any thoughts about this or, even better, experices you can share?

Thanks!

Is that the BB86 to DUB version you have, by chance? Any issues with bearings durability?

I have that WS2 coated. Done 12 000km and bearings was nice. But wasn't spinning well anymore.

Contacted BBinfinite (who definitely is a one or two man show). He believed it was my frame that crushed the bearings being BB86 not entirely 40.95mm.

Took out everything, received new bearings on warranty for $60 usd + customs fee.

Could be my frame being undersized. I followed Hambinis guide and it could be 0.1mm undersized so took some sandpaper to fix it. Haven't installed the BB after that so can't tell you yet. Sounds like a common problem apparently.

Also have the same bearings on my mtb, fewer miles but harsher environments. Neither bearings have zero sign of rust after heavy water and shower pours. I never hold back with the water hose.

Also have the BSA 30mm (dub) version. Some slight drag with THM installed, could be the BSA shells not being 100% aligned, I dunno. Just sucks

This is the BB86 to 30mm version featuring these special (non-standard) 4030 bearings. (I am using it to adapt to the Rotor ALDHU Carbon crank with 30mm axle). The one you are looking at in the photo has the Ceramic W2 coated bearings, but I also have the one with ABEC-7 steel bearings in my Aeroad. I have put quite some mileage on them in various conditions, both are still running absolutely fine and tbh I cant really tell the diffence between ceramic and steel.

What I found to be tricky with this particular model/bearing dimension is that they are very susceptible towards an even slightly undersized/out-of-round BB shell. The BB shells on both my Canyons were slightly undersized (40.95mm ID) and out-of round (0.02mm difference between min and max ID). After pressing them in wihtout any further modifications to the frame the bearings were not spinning freely at all. After consutling with Gary from BBinfinite I decided to widen/ream my BB shell to and ID of 40.98mm which actually did the job. Now they are spinning like crazy.

[edchristoph]

I don’t use a hammer but use a Hambini removal cup. Fits with Enduro press tools. It’s a large deep cup with hole in middle that ‘cups’ the BB and holds it there pressing against the frame. The one piece BB, be it BBinfinte or Hambini…is slowly pressed out safely.

Will Hambini's removal cup also work with frames that have almost no protrusion remaining between the sleve of the BBinifine module and the frame?

What I mean is best explained with the following pictures taken from the NDS of my Canyon Ultimate:

Looking at the left edge of the BB shell (where the downtube attaches to the BB shell) the sleeve of the BBinfinite module is entirely covering the outer edge of the BB shell leaving virtually no space to support the removal cup. Only at the right edge of the BB shell (where the chainstay attaches to the BB shell) the frame will properly support the removal cup. Given the immense extraction force the cup may easily get pushed over the unsupported edge of the BB shell thus jamming the alignement of the press/cup and the imagiunary axis of the BB shell.

Do you have any thoughts about this or, even better, experices you can share?

Thanks!

Here's a pic of the Hambini tool. About 50mm I.D.

That's great, thank you, kode54!

The sidewalls of the Hambini tool are very thick, so they may probably be strong enough not to deform under uneven pressure as described above, no?

[eucalyptus]

Will Hambini's removal cup also work with frames that have almost no protrusion remaining between the sleve of the BBinifine module and the frame?

What I mean is best explained with the following pictures taken from the NDS of my Canyon Ultimate:

Looking at the left edge of the BB shell (where the downtube attaches to the BB shell) the sleeve of the BBinfinite module is entirely covering the outer edge of the BB shell leaving virtually no space to support the removal cup. Only at the right edge of the BB shell (where the chainstay attaches to the BB shell) the frame will properly support the removal cup. Given the immense extraction force the cup may easily get pushed over the unsupported edge of the BB shell thus jamming the alignement of the press/cup and the imagiunary axis of the BB shell.

Do you have any thoughts about this or, even better, experices you can share?

Thanks!

Is that the BB86 to DUB version you have, by chance? Any issues with bearings durability?

I have that WS2 coated. Done 12 000km and bearings was nice. But wasn't spinning well anymore.

Contacted BBinfinite (who definitely is a one or two man show). He believed it was my frame that crushed the bearings being BB86 not entirely 40.95mm.

Took out everything, received new bearings on warranty for $60 usd + customs fee.

Could be my frame being undersized. I followed Hambinis guide and it could be 0.1mm undersized so took some sandpaper to fix it. Haven't installed the BB after that so can't tell you yet. Sounds like a common problem apparently.

Also have the same bearings on my mtb, fewer miles but harsher environments. Neither bearings have zero sign of rust after heavy water and shower pours. I never hold back with the water hose.

Also have the BSA 30mm (dub) version. Some slight drag with THM installed, could be the BSA shells not being 100% aligned, I dunno. Just sucks

This is the BB86 to 30mm version featuring these special (non-standard) 4030 bearings. (I am using it to adapt to the Rotor ALDHU Carbon crank with 30mm axle). The one you are looking at in the photo has the Ceramic W2 coated bearings, but I also have the one with ABEC-7 steel bearings in my Aeroad. I have put quite some mileage on them in various conditions, both are still running absolutely fine and tbh I cant really tell the diffence between ceramic and steel.

What I found to be tricky with this particular model/bearing dimension is that they are very susceptible towards an even slightly undersized/out-of-round BB shell. The BB shells on both my Canyons were slightly undersized (40.95mm ID) and out-of round (0.02mm difference between min and max ID). After pressing them in wihtout any further modifications to the frame the bearings were not spinning freely at all. After consutling with Gary from BBinfinite I decided to widen/ream my BB shell to and ID of 40.98mm which actually did the job. Now they are spinning like crazy.

Oh wow thats a small increase ID.

How did you do it? And what did you measure with?

I have nothing but a regular digital measure caliper.
As a tool I used a 117ml half bottle of Orange seal with sandpaper around it. Found it to be a perfect fit.

[Aeo]

BB86 and BB92 are symmetric designs, you can press in the Hambini BB from either side (not sure about BBInfinite, but probably the same thing applies)
Thus, choose wisely when installing for which side provides the better interface for removal with a receiver cup.

Search for 50mm (~2 inch) diameter PVC pressure tubing if you want to create a cheap extractor

[edchristoph]

Is that the BB86 to DUB version you have, by chance? Any issues with bearings durability?

I have that WS2 coated. Done 12 000km and bearings was nice. But wasn't spinning well anymore.

Contacted BBinfinite (who definitely is a one or two man show). He believed it was my frame that crushed the bearings being BB86 not entirely 40.95mm.

Took out everything, received new bearings on warranty for $60 usd + customs fee.

Could be my frame being undersized. I followed Hambinis guide and it could be 0.1mm undersized so took some sandpaper to fix it. Haven't installed the BB after that so can't tell you yet. Sounds like a common problem apparently.

Also have the same bearings on my mtb, fewer miles but harsher environments. Neither bearings have zero sign of rust after heavy water and shower pours. I never hold back with the water hose.

Also have the BSA 30mm (dub) version. Some slight drag with THM installed, could be the BSA shells not being 100% aligned, I dunno. Just sucks

This is the BB86 to 30mm version featuring these special (non-standard) 4030 bearings. (I am using it to adapt to the Rotor ALDHU Carbon crank with 30mm axle). The one you are looking at in the photo has the Ceramic W2 coated bearings, but I also have the one with ABEC-7 steel bearings in my Aeroad. I have put quite some mileage on them in various conditions, both are still running absolutely fine and tbh I cant really tell the diffence between ceramic and steel.

What I found to be tricky with this particular model/bearing dimension is that they are very susceptible towards an even slightly undersized/out-of-round BB shell. The BB shells on both my Canyons were slightly undersized (40.95mm ID) and out-of round (0.02mm difference between min and max ID). After pressing them in wihtout any further modifications to the frame the bearings were not spinning freely at all. After consutling with Gary from BBinfinite I decided to widen/ream my BB shell to and ID of 40.98mm which actually did the job. Now they are spinning like crazy.

Oh wow thats a small increase ID.

How did you do it? And what did you measure with?

I have nothing but a regular digital measure caliper.
As a tool I used a 117ml half bottle of Orange seal with sandpaper around it. Found it to be a perfect fit.

Well, for measuring the ID of the BB shell I use a 3-point inside micrometer. This tool provides precise and reliable measurements and personally I hate "flying blind" when the tolerances are that small. For the reaming I used this cylinder honing tool https://www.amazon.de/KS-Tools-150-1185 ... KD2K&psc=1

[edchristoph]

BB86 and BB92 are symmetric designs, you can press in the Hambini BB from either side (not sure about BBInfinite, but probably the same thing applies)
Thus, choose wisely when installing for which side provides the better interface for removal with a receiver cup.

Search for 50mm (~2 inch) diameter PVC pressure tubing if you want to create a cheap extractor

The BBinfinite module needs to be pressed in from the NDS. However, at least with my Canyon frames the interface between the frame and the receiver cup is pretty much the same for both DS and NDS, so it wouldn't make a difference in that respect.

Making a DIY receiver cup from a high-pressure PVC tube is a great idea, indeed! I will try this next time I need to extract a module.

A point which I am still curious about is the force that is required to break the retaining compound, particularly the green, high strength stuff (Loctite 609 or Vibratite 530) recomended by BBinfinite. FWIW, my own experience with this is that the green, high strength retaining compound needs the impact of a mullet to break loose while for the yellow, medium stregth stuff (Loctite 641) the continuously aggregating force of a press is sufficient to break the compound. This is probably, why Hambini recommends using only the yellow, medium strength Loctite 641.

[kode54]

I’ve used 609 and 641 on my Hambini BB and had no issue with removal. Just go slow.

[MrRolandos]

BBinfinite seems to be American, anyone found an european reseller? Saves a bunch of import fees etc.

[eucalyptus]

BBinfinite seems to be American, anyone found an european reseller? Saves a bunch of import fees etc.

No, direct sales only from US.

This may not be true, it could be true. I don't know, no one knows. Most likely not. But one could always ask for a lower value on the package. Of course that would be unethical so probably not worth asking. You haven't heard this from me because of course I would never do such thing. I pay my taxes, always, almost.

[Aeo]

There is also https://sn-vitae.bike/ based in UK

No idea about quality or the level of communications

[kode54]

BB86 and BB92 are symmetric designs, you can press in the Hambini BB from either side (not sure about BBInfinite, but probably the same thing applies)
Thus, choose wisely when installing for which side provides the better interface for removal with a receiver cup.

Search for 50mm (~2 inch) diameter PVC pressure tubing if you want to create a cheap extractor

Good point. I didn't even think about that. I suppose you have to put something on the open back end...maybe even using a flat PVC and glue it.

[ms6073]

A point which I am still curious about is the force that is required to break the retaining compound, particularly the green, high strength stuff (Loctite 609 or Vibratite 530) recomended by BBinfinite

In my current application, I pressed a BB86 assembly into the cups of a C64 and thus, did not need to use Loctite, but in previous frames where I had used Loctite 609, I was able to press them out starting first by slowly applying force with an Enduro bottom bracket tool (BRT-003) which breaks the seal of the Loctite, then I used a short piece of PVC pipe and a Park Tool headset press to push it out the rest of the way because the shaft of the Enduro tool is not long enough for the piece of PVC I have.

[ms6073]

There is also https://sn-vitae.bike/ based in UK

No idea about quality or the level of communications

There pressfit BB's look nearly identical to BBInfinites original version which had a very sharp lip on the drive side interface. I suspect if not perfectly aligned in an all-carbon bottom bracket shell, the leading edge of the bb assembly could easily catch/damage the face or 'lip' of the drive side race. BBInfinites latest version have a slight chamfer on the NDS lip which helps the assembly stay aligned as it contacts the 'lip' of the NDS race when pressing it in.