What I would love to see, though I doubt would ever happen, is get some real testing of the difference tiers of frames. Like take a Lab71, Hi-Mod, and standard frame, strip them down to bare carbon so you can't tell which is which, then build it up with the same exact components. Then have a bunch of people ride them and rate them. Do the same with S-Works and Pro frames. A blind taste test as it were.ediryppah wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2024 9:06 amAlways the same conclusion on these types of comparisons. Would be a lot more fun if someone just plain roasted the "cheap" variant saying that 105 is shit, a stupid alloy bar is shit and then laugh at poor people.
And that's coming from me that's currently getting a Evo 3 being built up at my LBS.
Cannondale SuperSix Evo4
Moderator: robbosmans
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Cannondale SuperSix Evo gen 4
Specialized Crux
Specialized Epic 8
Specialized Crux
Specialized Epic 8
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I read somewhere that the EXS gets quite noodly on the SSE cause of the shims you need to use. Only reading into integrated cockpits slightly, I'm still on the regular stem + Pro Vibe Aero SL and not sure where I'm going with my fit before I drop some cash on an integrated cockpit which locks me in then of course.
Tavelo AVRO Avro might be another option you could look into, similar looks to the EXS, a touch heavier and less expensive.
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I believe the same. That's exactly why the brands wouldn't want it to happen. So no major cycling publication would do it. And I doubt any normal person would care enough to drop that much money on multiple frames and builds.
Cannondale SuperSix Evo gen 4
Specialized Crux
Specialized Epic 8
Specialized Crux
Specialized Epic 8
Nice, thanks for the tip - I'd not heard of that bar before.tyoac wrote: ↑Sat Nov 02, 2024 10:21 amI read somewhere that the EXS gets quite noodly on the SSE cause of the shims you need to use. Only reading into integrated cockpits slightly, I'm still on the regular stem + Pro Vibe Aero SL and not sure where I'm going with my fit before I drop some cash on an integrated cockpit which locks me in then of course.
Tavelo AVRO Avro might be another option you could look into, similar looks to the EXS, a touch heavier and less expensive.
No noodly at all, quite stiff and agressive for me. It is a great handlebar if you want to get low and go fast. For me i want to be more conformtable on longer ride so I changed to momo system bar r onetyoac wrote: ↑Sat Nov 02, 2024 10:21 amI read somewhere that the EXS gets quite noodly on the SSE cause of the shims you need to use. Only reading into integrated cockpits slightly, I'm still on the regular stem + Pro Vibe Aero SL and not sure where I'm going with my fit before I drop some cash on an integrated cockpit which locks me in then of course.
Tavelo AVRO Avro might be another option you could look into, similar looks to the EXS, a touch heavier and less expensive.
Switching stem-bar from stock SSE 2024 (conceal stem) to one piece bar+stem what shims is needed for the delta steerer
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- SSE C1 stem parts.jpg (22.62 KiB) Viewed 1075 times
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I got my SSE3 just days ago and in an effort to not cut the steerer right away I figured I'll at least reduce the massive amount of spacers and try it out a bit.
But, I'm not really sure I'm doing this right. Slightly (or very) confused.
I removed 20mm of spacers below the stem, and then added 20mm of spacers above. But with the systembar top cap (or whatever it's called, the round top cap) I can't get any thread engagement. Looks like this with 20mm on top: This works with the conceal top cap though, but looks really wonky.
With 15mm of spacers on top I don't get proper compression, this is the look with 15mm spacers on top: I ended up with (I think) 19mm but had to use some wider carbon spacers. Seems to work, but haven't ridden it. Am I OK riding this?
Honestly if I replicate the fit of my current bike I can slam it all the way but I want to test out a higher/shorter position a bit to see if it enables me riding in the aero tuck more.
Also, is the only manual available the supplement on the website? I feel like it's lacking but maybe that's just the nature of a bike manual (I haven't looked in one ever before because I've only ridden bikes without proprietary parts/solutions).
But, I'm not really sure I'm doing this right. Slightly (or very) confused.
I removed 20mm of spacers below the stem, and then added 20mm of spacers above. But with the systembar top cap (or whatever it's called, the round top cap) I can't get any thread engagement. Looks like this with 20mm on top: This works with the conceal top cap though, but looks really wonky.
With 15mm of spacers on top I don't get proper compression, this is the look with 15mm spacers on top: I ended up with (I think) 19mm but had to use some wider carbon spacers. Seems to work, but haven't ridden it. Am I OK riding this?
Honestly if I replicate the fit of my current bike I can slam it all the way but I want to test out a higher/shorter position a bit to see if it enables me riding in the aero tuck more.
Also, is the only manual available the supplement on the website? I feel like it's lacking but maybe that's just the nature of a bike manual (I haven't looked in one ever before because I've only ridden bikes without proprietary parts/solutions).
You're probably ok short term to figure out your fit, but not long term. The compression plug supports the steerer against the stem clamping force, and your current setup supports the wrong part of the steerer.
I also don't see the wedges - I assume you're using them, they're critical
I also don't see the wedges - I assume you're using them, they're critical
The black wedges are there, just further down (which looking at the manual they should be).harblhat wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 2:47 pmYou're probably ok short term to figure out your fit, but not long term. The compression plug supports the steerer against the stem clamping force, and your current setup supports the wrong part of the steerer.
I also don't see the wedges - I assume you're using them, they're critical
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I had a similiar experience when I installed the Momo bar. In order to get proper compression I needed the the delta steerer tube to be flush with the Momo bar stem. -1mm was too short and the round top cap threads would not engage the delta compression plug. +1mm and there was not enough compression. I would say use enough spacers to get the top of the delta steerer tube and the spacers flush, then use the round top cap. From what I can see, 17/18 mm of spacers may be the correct size for your use case. If 19mm works and you feel no play, then your assessment is correct.ediryppah wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 2:41 pmI removed 20mm of spacers below the stem, and then added 20mm of spacers above. But with the systembar top cap (or whatever it's called, the round top cap) I can't get any thread engagement...
With 15mm of spacers on top I don't get proper compression, this is the look with 15mm spacers on top...
I ended up with (I think) 19mm but had to use some wider carbon spacers. Seems to work, but haven't ridden it...
Also, in my case, I had to sand down one of the spacers to get back the -1mm I cut from my steerer tube. I have 20mm of spacers installed on my bike. I had planned to slam my stem, but I wanted to leave some error room when I cut the delta steerer tube. I've been too lazy to slam the stem and the bike feels good with 20mm of spacers, so I just let it be.
I think it's safe to ride your bike like this for a short while, but I agree with what harblhat said about the clamping forces.
Question: 2x half round/moon shim for delta steerer.
Are there 2 kinds - one for carbon stem/onepiece carbon stem-bar and another for alloy stems ??
TIA
Are there 2 kinds - one for carbon stem/onepiece carbon stem-bar and another for alloy stems ??
TIA
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Delta Filler pieces come in black and pink/purple (or rather magenta).
The black ones goes on the conceal stem assembly, and the manual states the magenta ones to be used on the SystemBar-assembly.
I haven't had a look at the parts and figured out what the difference is though, but I'm sure someone else has.
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