This relates specifically to the Dogma F with rim brakes.
Because I am finicky, I am using the Most aluminum stem with
Black Inc bars. The bars are perfect because they have all of
the holes necessary for the integrated cockpit.
But I have to say that I am a bit underwelmed by the sponginess
of the rear brake and it is obvious why this is the case.
When I think about the route that the cable takes: out of the brifter
and into the bars and then a 90 degree turn (that turn has a radius
of over an inch which is "in spec", into the stem and then another 90
degree turn down into the headtube and then another 90 degree turn
into the top tube, I can understand the issue. It is not a friction issue
(at the advise of the folks at Jagwire (I am using the campy cable/housing)
the cable was greased.
The issue is that a cable with any turns in it wants to return to a straight line
under load. I believe that it is the mechanical straightening of the cable that
causes this sponginess.
Unfortunately, I do not think there is any solution... or is there?
Rear brake cable routing on an integrated rim brake frame
Moderator: robbosmans
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Have you tried a compressionless link cable housing, like the Jagwire Road Elite Link Brake Kit?
You might get slightly improved feel.
You might get slightly improved feel.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg
SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress
The linked outer is stiffer and compressionless, which may make a difference to the feel especially where tight bends are involved.
You have said above the you believe:
The issue is that a cable with any turns in it wants to return to a straight line
under load. I believe that it is the mechanical straightening of the cable that
causes this sponginess.
What's the "science" behind that may I ask?
As you know your steel brake cable does not exist in a vacuum, but rather it moves within the housing. What you 'feel' is a function on how both the cable and the housing interact. A stiffer housing designed with tight bends in mind may elicit an improvement.
Anyway, your Pina dealer should be able to provide a remedy, they deal with these issues all day.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg
SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress
It's mechanical movement of the housing when the cable in it see tension. Remove that tension, and the compression on the housing is relieved which allows it to move back to where it was. Hence the suggestion to use compressionless housings. Those don't or barely move under tension if laid out reasonably and operated a bit.
Not being familiar with the Elite link kit I have some questions...
It seems that there is a cable, a liner and the "beads"....
Won't the liner suffer the same issue? But the bigger deal is that
the website says it is for Shimano but not Campy.... which is what I have.
Can I just slide my Campy cable into their system?
It seems that there is a cable, a liner and the "beads"....
Won't the liner suffer the same issue? But the bigger deal is that
the website says it is for Shimano but not Campy.... which is what I have.
Can I just slide my Campy cable into their system?
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